Originally posted by Risxsoul I posted this in photo critiques but those of you more interested might look here. All comments ae welcome. I will repost the text from original below. Also here i post the original no PS. Thanks.
I looked at your original post. To answer the question you asked there what is in your field of view I passed the URL of your image
here to have it plate solve it. The results of plate solving
can be found here.
So now you know what is showing in your image. So we can move on to how to improve. When doing astro shooting exposure matters and if you can't get enough in a single shot (you never can get enough) you will need to use stacking software. For those starting out I suggest using Deep Sky Stacker or Sequator as they are free and do well enough for beginners. I would still seek to increase exposure times for each frame.
Since you mention you don't have any tracking (astrotracer or equatorial) your best option is to use the rule of 200. This is a modern variation of the rule of 500 that was used for film but digital doesn't have reciprocity failure and digital is sharper, so because of that you use 200 instead of 500. This rule says that your maximum single frame exposure time should be no more than 200/(focal length) in seconds. So with a 50mm lens it means you can use a 4 second exposure for a single exposure and not have much noticeable trailing. I would say don't bother using the in camera HDR options as they expect things to not move and they do move.
Your images isn't too bad for one's first astro image. it shows noticeable vignetting but with a pushed image shot wide open with one of the 50/1.4 that is expected. It also shows clear coma in the corners, another thing that is common. Finally I see those wonderful purple halos that show up when wide open on most lenses and more so when the focus isn't perfect.
So let's work on solving those problems
First solving the purple halos. This is often caused by the focus being slightly off. There are focusing aids you can get to help you nail the focus and the most common preferred one is a
bahtinov mask. You can buy them premade and
this one should work pretty well for your short lenses. If you don't have one you can get a very good focus by manually focusing in magnified live view and minimizing the stars and when you get it close look at some of the flickering pixels. You will find that eventually a bunch of those flickering pixels will stay on, these are dim stars and when you get the perfect focus they consistently stay on.
Next will solve the rest of the purple fringing, most of the coma and most of the vignetting. To do this you will need to stop the lens down. Almost every lens needs to be stopped down some to get great when shooting astro. Even legendary astro glass like the Rokinon/Samyang 135mm f/2 UMC, Laowa 12mm F/2.8, and SMC A* 400mm F/2.8 ED [IF]. I also have some 50mm lenses I run for astro, one is the S-M-C 50/1.4 Takumar and the other is the SMC A 50/1.2 and I will run both of these lenses at f/2.8. This removes almost all of the coma, basically all the color fringing (I maybe could count 1 pixel but that might be bad tracking), and basically the vignetting. So I would run your 50/1.4 at f/2.8. Even the modern DFA * 50/1.4 needs to be run at 2.8 for astro shooting.
The bright sky is normal, especially in light polluted areas. This is normal and can be clean up with post processing. But for someone starting out focus on taking shots and getting them stacked using a program like Deep Sky Stacker (DSS) or Sequator. Use a remote release (cabled or wireless doesn't matter) also use the 2s delay as that will cause the camera to flip the mirror up for a couple of seconds before opening the shutter. This allows shake to die down giving better results. As far as tripods go you want the biggest heaviest, most ridged you can find, or
in my case build. I also have a Manfrotto 3058 with the 3057 head which is a big sturdy one too. From there I would shoot a few shots and reframe to shoot more and just keep repeating that until you are cold, tired, or sick of being outside.
For more info
I wrote this up a few years ago to get beginners pointed in the right direction. It doesn't tell everything as I could probably write volumes on the subject now but is enough to get someone more or less off to taking some good starter images.
If you want better responses go join
the astro group, we are friendly and will usually fall over each other to help others grown in ability.