Thematic The SOOC Club

ChristianRock · 10-09-2019, 04:24 PM - **3 Likes**

K-S1 and Vivitar 24 2.8 using the Vibrant preset.

**aslyfox** · 10-09-2019, 07:35 PM - **1 Like**

Another African Painted Dog from Selous Game Reserve

K 3 + HD PENTAX-DA 55-300mm F4.5-6.3 ED PLM WR RE

SOOC

**BruceBanner** · 10-24-2019, 02:50 PM - **3 Likes**

KP+20-40

aaacb · 10-24-2019, 05:01 PM - **3 Likes**

This was the most in-camera processing I've ever done (GR III camera): double exposure with a crop to 50mm (28mm is the full view)
Just the default positive profile, I didn't tweak the raw afterwards, though the same as a Pentax the GR offers some jpeg tuning options from raw.

ChristianRock · 10-26-2019, 08:37 AM

I have tweaked some of my JPEG engine settings in both my K-50 and K-S1 to get closer to the colors and balance that I get from my K10D's CCD sensor. The results are always satisfying but I usually am able to improve some in PP from RAW... even though I'm pretty happy with the JPEGs now especially if exposure and dynamic range are right.

This one, I couldn't improve in PP... I think it's perfect as is. The bokeh of course is perfect being the K 50 1.2, but the way the leaves and bokeh interact, with the in-focus and out-of-focus areas in the leaves being interconnected, makes it look a bit like a painting.

MrB1 · 10-31-2019, 01:29 AM - **4 Likes**

Photos taken with a Pentax KP and D-FA HD 28-105 WR: (i) A disused canal; (ii) The bridge.

Philip

jcdoss · 11-02-2019, 06:21 PM - **4 Likes**

Pastel bokeh
K-1 mII, M120f2.8, pastel digital filter

aaacb · 11-03-2019, 07:22 PM - **3 Likes**

All I wanted to change in this image was possible through the in-camera raw developer (k3ii, fa43), so here is there result after editing during a short bus ride

Unregistered User · 11-05-2019, 01:38 PM

Spikey fence post. No processing other than to rotate the image & auto white balance; either in-camera or post-.

M_D_K · 11-10-2019, 12:26 PM - **3 Likes**

From last night's "Swansboro by Candlelight" event. No processing other than resizing.

K-X w/18-55mm f/5.6 1/45s ISO1600

**aslyfox** · 11-10-2019, 12:54 PM - **1 Like**

K3 II+ SMC Pentax-DA * 55mm F1.4 SDM

aaacb · 11-11-2019, 07:04 PM

ricoh gr digital (the one from 2005 aka grd1), bw with max contrast and almost max sharpness

Aaron28 · 11-17-2019, 01:03 PM - **3 Likes**

ah sooc…..prolly the majority of my pictures with the exception of cropping

K-50...soligor 35/f2.8 m42...no crop

ChristianRock · 11-17-2019, 02:06 PM

Originally posted by dlh

How do you mean that, I wonder? What, exactly, did you do to "tweak" the settings?

In the JPEG engine, typically you can change up to 5 parameters: Saturation, Hue, High/Low key Adj, Contrast and Sharpening. So to get a look closer to the K10D, I change the hue setting to +4 on both my K-50 and my K-S1 (so I think it will work the same with the other Sony sensors as well). Depending on the lens I add contrast and saturation, but the trick is you can't add too much of either, otherwise you end up with some unnatural looking colors. If a lens is very contrasty I will do a +1 on the High/low Key setting as well.
This setting only works well until about ISO 800, after that the colors get a bit too saturated and I would rather shoot in RAW.

One of the things that annoys me the most with CMOS censors is how "fake" the greens can look, they get a very yellow tint and are typically too saturated. This setting works on that a little bit. I have another setting I have been experimenting with that is based on the Muted Colors setting, but which was changed to have plenty of contrast and saturation, and colors that to me are a bit more true to life than other JPEG settings. The greens I am getting from it look a bit like what I get in RAW processing when I add a bit of the Split Toning module, so I'm very pleased with what I've gotten so far - but I need to explore some more.

**BruceBanner** · 11-17-2019, 05:25 PM

Originally posted by ChristianRock

In the JPEG engine, typically you can change up to 5 parameters: Saturation, Hue, High/Low key Adj, Contrast and Sharpening. So to get a look closer to the K10D, I change the hue setting to +4 on both my K-50 and my K-S1 (so I think it will work the same with the other Sony sensors as well). Depending on the lens I add contrast and saturation, but the trick is you can't add too much of either, otherwise you end up with some unnatural looking colors. If a lens is very contrasty I will do a +1 on the High/low Key setting as well.
This setting only works well until about ISO 800, after that the colors get a bit too saturated and I would rather shoot in RAW.

One of the things that annoys me the most with CMOS censors is how "fake" the greens can look, they get a very yellow tint and are typically too saturated. This setting works on that a little bit. I have another setting I have been experimenting with that is based on the Muted Colors setting, but which was changed to have plenty of contrast and saturation, and colors that to me are a bit more true to life than other JPEG settings. The greens I am getting from it look a bit like what I get in RAW processing when I add a bit of the Split Toning module, so I'm very pleased with what I've gotten so far - but I need to explore some more.

Do share your results. My extent to SOOCs is really a love for Film Reversal on the K-1, I have tried a few muted shots but I don't think I have quite landed on a scenario where it has worked well.

---------- Post added 11-18-19 at 11:29 AM ----------

Originally posted by Aaron28

ah sooc…..prolly the majority of my pictures with the exception of cropping

K-50...soligor 35/f2.8 m42...no crop

The 'rules' I set out for this thread is pretty loose, however the idea is that really no retouching (even cropping) should be done outside of camera. The only exception I thought would be acceptable would be to use external software to tackle dust spots, but you want the file to be Jpg at this time as even a RAW will look different in a Raw developer software vs the baked in camera stuff that the Jpg would have. I'd forego this rule if there existed an in camera cloning tool to help remove dusts spots but no such feature exists. I'd hate for some really awesome landscape f8-11 shots not be submitted here just because of a few nasty dust spots. If 99% of what you're seeing was all captured at the time and edited only in camera then I think that carries the spirit and intent of SOOC.

11-05-2019, 01:38 PM	#54
Unregistered User Guest	Spikey fence post. No processing other than to rotate the image & auto white balance; either in-camera or post-. Last edited by Unregistered User; 10-22-2020 at 08:43 AM.

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10-09-2019, 04:24 PM - 3 Likes	#46
ChristianRock Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: People's Republic of America Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 9,910	K-S1 and Vivitar 24 2.8 using the Vibrant preset.

10-24-2019, 02:50 PM - 3 Likes	#48
BruceBanner Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2015 Posts: 5,404 Original Poster	KP+20-40

10-24-2019, 05:01 PM - 3 Likes	#49
aaacb Pentaxian Join Date: May 2016 Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,725	This was the most in-camera processing I've ever done (GR III camera): double exposure with a crop to 50mm (28mm is the full view) Just the default positive profile, I didn't tweak the raw afterwards, though the same as a Pentax the GR offers some jpeg tuning options from raw.

10-26-2019, 08:37 AM	#50
ChristianRock Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: People's Republic of America Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 9,910	I have tweaked some of my JPEG engine settings in both my K-50 and K-S1 to get closer to the colors and balance that I get from my K10D's CCD sensor. The results are always satisfying but I usually am able to improve some in PP from RAW... even though I'm pretty happy with the JPEGs now especially if exposure and dynamic range are right. This one, I couldn't improve in PP... I think it's perfect as is. The bokeh of course is perfect being the K 50 1.2, but the way the leaves and bokeh interact, with the in-focus and out-of-focus areas in the leaves being interconnected, makes it look a bit like a painting.

11-02-2019, 06:21 PM - 4 Likes	#52
jcdoss Pentaxian Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Ingelheim am Rhein, Germany Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,769	Pastel bokeh K-1 mII, M120f2.8, pastel digital filter

11-03-2019, 07:22 PM - 3 Likes	#53
aaacb Pentaxian Join Date: May 2016 Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,725	All I wanted to change in this image was possible through the in-camera raw developer (k3ii, fa43), so here is there result after editing during a short bus ride

11-10-2019, 12:26 PM - 3 Likes	#55
M_D_K Forum Member Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: North Carolina Posts: 85	From last night's "Swansboro by Candlelight" event. No processing other than resizing. K-X w/18-55mm f/5.6 1/45s ISO1600

11-11-2019, 07:04 PM	#57
aaacb Pentaxian Join Date: May 2016 Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,725	ricoh gr digital (the one from 2005 aka grd1), bw with max contrast and almost max sharpness

11-17-2019, 01:03 PM - 3 Likes	#58
Aaron28 Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Huntsville, Al Posts: 7,131	ah sooc…..prolly the majority of my pictures with the exception of cropping K-50...soligor 35/f2.8 m42...no crop

11-17-2019, 02:06 PM	#59
ChristianRock Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: People's Republic of America Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 9,910	Originally posted by dlh How do you mean that, I wonder? What, exactly, did you do to "tweak" the settings? In the JPEG engine, typically you can change up to 5 parameters: Saturation, Hue, High/Low key Adj, Contrast and Sharpening. So to get a look closer to the K10D, I change the hue setting to +4 on both my K-50 and my K-S1 (so I think it will work the same with the other Sony sensors as well). Depending on the lens I add contrast and saturation, but the trick is you can't add too much of either, otherwise you end up with some unnatural looking colors. If a lens is very contrasty I will do a +1 on the High/low Key setting as well. This setting only works well until about ISO 800, after that the colors get a bit too saturated and I would rather shoot in RAW. One of the things that annoys me the most with CMOS censors is how "fake" the greens can look, they get a very yellow tint and are typically too saturated. This setting works on that a little bit. I have another setting I have been experimenting with that is based on the Muted Colors setting, but which was changed to have plenty of contrast and saturation, and colors that to me are a bit more true to life than other JPEG settings. The greens I am getting from it look a bit like what I get in RAW processing when I add a bit of the Split Toning module, so I'm very pleased with what I've gotten so far - but I need to explore some more.

11-17-2019, 05:25 PM	#60
BruceBanner Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2015 Posts: 5,404 Original Poster	Originally posted by ChristianRock In the JPEG engine, typically you can change up to 5 parameters: Saturation, Hue, High/Low key Adj, Contrast and Sharpening. So to get a look closer to the K10D, I change the hue setting to +4 on both my K-50 and my K-S1 (so I think it will work the same with the other Sony sensors as well). Depending on the lens I add contrast and saturation, but the trick is you can't add too much of either, otherwise you end up with some unnatural looking colors. If a lens is very contrasty I will do a +1 on the High/low Key setting as well. This setting only works well until about ISO 800, after that the colors get a bit too saturated and I would rather shoot in RAW. One of the things that annoys me the most with CMOS censors is how "fake" the greens can look, they get a very yellow tint and are typically too saturated. This setting works on that a little bit. I have another setting I have been experimenting with that is based on the Muted Colors setting, but which was changed to have plenty of contrast and saturation, and colors that to me are a bit more true to life than other JPEG settings. The greens I am getting from it look a bit like what I get in RAW processing when I add a bit of the Split Toning module, so I'm very pleased with what I've gotten so far - but I need to explore some more. Do share your results. My extent to SOOCs is really a love for Film Reversal on the K-1, I have tried a few muted shots but I don't think I have quite landed on a scenario where it has worked well. ---------- Post added 11-18-19 at 11:29 AM ---------- Originally posted by Aaron28 ah sooc…..prolly the majority of my pictures with the exception of cropping K-50...soligor 35/f2.8 m42...no crop The 'rules' I set out for this thread is pretty loose, however the idea is that really no retouching (even cropping) should be done outside of camera. The only exception I thought would be acceptable would be to use external software to tackle dust spots, but you want the file to be Jpg at this time as even a RAW will look different in a Raw developer software vs the baked in camera stuff that the Jpg would have. I'd forego this rule if there existed an in camera cloning tool to help remove dusts spots but no such feature exists. I'd hate for some really awesome landscape f8-11 shots not be submitted here just because of a few nasty dust spots. If 99% of what you're seeing was all captured at the time and edited only in camera then I think that carries the spirit and intent of SOOC.