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12-08-2019, 02:01 PM   #106
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QuoteOriginally posted by Aaron28 Quote
not sure if this qualifies but in camera color extract is the only way I know how but do need to 'clean it up' in post due to the color being about.....????
If you visited external software for cleaning up something other than dust spots then yeah, its no longer a SOOC. The point is, could your colour extract have been used in a way that your background had none of the same colour? I know when I have used Colour replace or colour extract in the past I get better results just by taking a little longer to frame the shot before taking the picture, can I manage this shot in such a way that the only colour I want to tinker with is in this particular zone and nowhere else etc? Perhaps for example if you stood over this flower and shot down from it from above, you'd get the same result here with no need to PP any more around the flower etc.

12-08-2019, 07:29 PM   #107
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
If you visited external software for cleaning up something other than dust spots then yeah, its no longer a SOOC. The point is, could your colour extract have been used in a way that your background had none of the same colour?
wasn't sure....thought I could cheese by treating the fragmented color that's left about like the dust spots......I don't think there was a way to move around for it......the few times I have done there is always the extracted color elsewhere in frame......posted deleted
12-08-2019, 08:02 PM   #108
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You could put the image back, its a good talking point (as well as a nice shot)
12-10-2019, 04:14 PM   #109
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
You could put the image back, its a good talking point (as well as a nice shot)
my bad ok..thanks!!..the spirit moved me to delete! .......

original post:

not sure if this qualifies but in camera color extract is the only way I know how but do need to 'clean it up' in post due to the color being about.....????



12-11-2019, 01:44 AM - 2 Likes   #110
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Some pure SOOCs from the Takumar 50/1.4 (8). What I mean by 'pure' is not even any in camera RAW Development or any further manipulation in Digital Filters in camera. It's just the shot as it was taken, nothing else;





12-11-2019, 04:49 PM - 1 Like   #111
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running on water.....k-3ii....sigma 150-500os.....

12-11-2019, 10:14 PM   #112
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mamiya/sekor 55/f1.8....k-50



12-13-2019, 12:07 PM   #113
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
Like you I also love the Reversal Film setting, when it works well it does things I can't even do with PP. But to me the biggest drawback to it is that it doesn't adjust WB to the scene, the only way you can change WB is by going and changing it manually. It doesn't work in Auto-WB, it will have a "daylight" setting in Auto-WB.

So what I meant with my "muted" preset is that I don't really use it for muted, but I found a very realistic yet slide-film-like setting with it that I have been experimenting with. I haven't used it yet on a family outing to see how everything turns out but all my tests so far have been very positive! It tames the greens and reds and basically gets rid of any excess yellow, and allowing the slide-film like contrast some of us love(*) - while still using auto-WB fully.

(*others hate because it reduces shadow detail but hey, to me if it's in the shadows, it's shadows, who cares what's hidden there... it's a distraction to me if there's too much detail in shadows, usually)

Anyway, here's my "muted"-based setting:



For a comparison, here's what I captured with other JPEG settings:

Reversal Film


Bright:


Vibrant:


Portrait:


Now Portrait and Bright have my changes to look more K10D-like and I think they look closest to reality - but not nearly what my "muted"-based setting does. My red guitar is actually orange-burst - the center needs to look more orange, exactly like the first picture - not yellowish, not brownish (and I put "mute" in quotes because now it's no longer muted at all!). Everything else is just too yellow.

Here's what this "muted" setting was changed to:
Saturation: +1 (In lower ISO I use +2)
Toning: Off
High/Low Key: 0
Contrast: +4
Sharpening: here I used -2 but I usually use +1 Fine Sharpening.

Try these settings and let me know what you think of them
Thank you for this information! I stopped using Reversal film setting because it wasn't quite “right” for me. I didn't know about the WB issue. Your settings made me happy!
12-13-2019, 01:00 PM   #114
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QuoteOriginally posted by MKohoutek Quote
Thank you for this information! I stopped using Reversal film setting because it wasn't quite “right” for me. I didn't know about the WB issue. Your settings made me happy!
Thank you, glad to hear that!
12-13-2019, 05:47 PM - 1 Like   #115
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gr iii, bw with +4 contrast
12-14-2019, 11:28 AM - 3 Likes   #116
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QuoteOriginally posted by dlh Quote
Interesting. I wonder whether Silkypix/DCU and Serif Affinity do the same thing.

By the way, and apropos of our earlier conversation, I bought that Vello light diffuser thing (Vello | Camera & Flash Accessories) designed to assist in programming the user-setting ("K") white balance, and that thing is amazing. It works really well. Thing is, using that instead of the "multi-auto" which I normally use is no good for spontaneous and incidental photography. Too time consuming, and holding the thing in front of the lens properly while simultaneously operating the camera settings is not as easy as it might be.
Good to gear the vello thing is working. Hopefully with time you will come to sus out a scene that the Multi Auto WB struggles with. Autumn, snow, etc, and the vello tool is used on those occasions rather than all the time. Don't forget, when shooting RAW you can shoot Multi-Auto first (to capture the moment), then after the event has passed bring out the vello tool and then take a shot, because when coming to post process the images you can synchronise the 'hurried capture the moment' shots using Multi Auto off from the latter shot taken with the Vello tool

---------- Post added 12-15-19 at 06:04 AM ----------

Colour Extract then Colour Replace;



I think my biggest hurdle currently is getting the brightness or exposure right 'in camera edit' for preparation to the real computer/monitor screen. I typically have my Camera at +1 for 'Outdoor setting' which gives me a brighter LCD to work with, however what I am seeing from my edit is a lot brighter than the final result you see here, my monitor is clearly duller (or more accurate) and thus I am editing something that is not how it will genuinely appear once ported to the computer. I think I need to start editing at '0' for Outdoor Screen/Setting so I get a better idea of how dark or bright the shot really is when ported to PC.
12-19-2019, 09:16 PM   #117
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fa77...k-1...

12-20-2019, 04:41 PM   #118
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curious am I missing something as in should some type of on camera take place or just a shot as is??

soligor 35/f2.8 m42....k-50...….bright

12-21-2019, 09:12 AM - 2 Likes   #119
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I shoot JPEG

my SOOC photos are just the JPEG, no crop or pp of any type

and yes, as I understand it, the camera does its own processing depending on how you present it

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12-23-2019, 02:28 PM   #120
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Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays with a couple SOOC shots to all!

K 50 1.2


K 55 f2
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