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02-22-2021, 02:54 PM - 5 Likes   #31
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I see the remarkable Samyang 1:2.0 16mm ED AS UMC CS is not yet represented. This image of the Tre cime in the Italian Dolomites showcases its abilities as an astro lens.




K-5 II, six three-frame stacks (f/2.8, 13 sec.) stitched in Hugin.

02-23-2021, 10:40 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by kengoh Quote
SIGMA 35mm F1.4 DG HSM @F1.4 shallow depth of field
While I like this lens too, you are 2 months too early with your nomination (this month it's 20mm or wider)
02-23-2021, 11:49 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by othar Quote
While I like this lens too, you are 2 months too early with your nomination (this month it's 20mm or wider)
Ops sorry, didn't read in detail, I've removed the post, will post wider angle lens.
02-24-2021, 09:09 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by wkraus Quote
This image of the Tre cime in the Italian Dolomites showcases its abilities as an astro lens.
That was one of the many UWAs I considered for astro but settled on the Laowa 12mm f/2.8 Zero-D. I cleanly stacked 140+ milky way images with it wide open. The extra low distortion with that lens really helps in the that regard.

02-24-2021, 09:10 AM - 1 Like   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by kengoh Quote
Ops sorry, didn't read in detail, I've removed the post, will post wider angle lens.
I did the same things except I first posted a shot from an ultra telephoto instead of an ultra wide, so not even close.
02-24-2021, 09:32 AM - 8 Likes   #36
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"Good Lady" Pentax-A 20mm F2.8

QuoteOriginally posted by MSL Quote
show off some special feature of a lens, whether it is a super starbursts, super sharp, dreamy colours, super fast wide open aperture
Well it's got some of the requirements and extra bonus highly coloured flare spots.


Last edited by Kerrowdown; 03-01-2021 at 03:47 PM.
02-24-2021, 11:39 AM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by MossyRocks Quote
That was one of the many UWAs I considered for astro but settled on the Laowa 12mm f/2.8 Zero-D. I cleanly stacked 140+ milky way images with it wide open. The extra low distortion with that lens really helps in the that regard.
The Samyang 16mm is APS-C only (as you probably know) and therefore not really an UWA, so you are surely better off with the Laowa. What software do you use for stacking? Iím using Hugin and while there may be more elegant and less work-intensive solutions it takes care of the distortion too (which is not too bad to begin with, but definitely not near-zero).
02-24-2021, 01:12 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by wkraus Quote
The Samyang 16mm is APS-C only (as you probably know) and therefore not really an UWA, so you are surely better off with the Laowa. What software do you use for stacking? I’m using Hugin and while there may be more elegant and less work-intensive solutions it takes care of the distortion too (which is not too bad to begin with, but definitely not near-zero).
I'm on APS-C as well (K-3 and K-3ii) so getting a true ultrawide on that format is harder, that 16 was a contender as it is substantally wider than than my 28mm and a whole lot better for night shots than the 17mm fisheye takumar. For stacking it really depends on what I am doing with the shots. If it is deep sky images I use Deep Sky Stacker or Astro Pixel Processor (APP), and mostly APP now as it is better. DSS is free while APP is a paid product. For sky scenes with something in the foreground where I won't be stitching images together (similar to your shot)I use Sequator as it has the ability to freeze the ground and freeze the sky and stack each independently. If you need to stitch then stack each stack where the foreground remains the same and stitch in another program. For things like the moon and monster setups where you don't get the entire moon in the frame with a single shot but still what to stack a bunch images and stitch all at once I use Hugin and the tools it comes with. I've had really good luck stacking things like the moon even with a lot of noise using Hugin. There I will do the alignment of all the shots in the GUI and then use the command line tools do the actual combining of aligned shots. I gave up on photoshop for stacking and stitching as tools like Sequator, Hugin, APP, and DSS do a much better job of things once one knows where to use each one. If I am just straight stitching a panorama I will also use MS Image Composite Editor (MS ICE) as it also does a great job with stitching things together so I will stitch in ICE and Hugin and pick the one that turned out the best.

Here is one of the total eclipse from 2019 where I stacked 106 shots in Hugin. There was no stitching as the moon easily fits in the field of view of my 300mm but each shot had a lot of noise as that was my first eclipse attempt and didn't know what I was doing. I really had to push each shot a lot.
This one is 237 stacked images in DSS taken with my 400mm
This one is 329 shots stitched and stacked with the Hugin tools. Each shot was at 2000mm and f/20
And finally this is one similar to yours with 143 images stacked in Sequator. That is an exceptionally dark location so you can get a back lit image from the light from the milky way. I even got a fair amount of sky glow (the greens and purples in the sky) which I had never seen before.

When it comes to distortion it usually isn't a problem with a handful of shots and yes hugin does a very good job of handling it with a few shots with not much movement of stars but lots of programs will struggle with large movements of things across the frame unless there is very little distortion.

02-24-2021, 02:15 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by MossyRocks Quote
I'm on APS-C as well (K-3 and K-3ii) so getting a true ultrawide on that format is harder, that 16 was a contender as it is substantally wider than than my 28mm and a whole lot better for night shots than the 17mm fisheye takumar. For stacking it really depends on what I am doing with the shots. If it is deep sky images I use Deep Sky Stacker or Astro Pixel Processor (APP), and mostly APP now as it is better. DSS is free while APP is a paid product. For sky scenes with something in the foreground where I won't be stitching images together (similar to your shot)I use Sequator as it has the ability to freeze the ground and freeze the sky and stack each independently. If you need to stitch then stack each stack where the foreground remains the same and stitch in another program. For things like the moon and monster setups where you don't get the entire moon in the frame with a single shot but still what to stack a bunch images and stitch all at once I use Hugin and the tools it comes with. I've had really good luck stacking things like the moon even with a lot of noise using Hugin. There I will do the alignment of all the shots in the GUI and then use the command line tools do the actual combining of aligned shots. I gave up on photoshop for stacking and stitching as tools like Sequator, Hugin, APP, and DSS do a much better job of things once one knows where to use each one. If I am just straight stitching a panorama I will also use MS Image Composite Editor (MS ICE) as it also does a great job with stitching things together so I will stitch in ICE and Hugin and pick the one that turned out the best.

Here is one of the total eclipse from 2019 where I stacked 106 shots in Hugin. There was no stitching as the moon easily fits in the field of view of my 300mm but each shot had a lot of noise as that was my first eclipse attempt and didn't know what I was doing. I really had to push each shot a lot.
This one is 237 stacked images in DSS taken with my 400mm
This one is 329 shots stitched and stacked with the Hugin tools. Each shot was at 2000mm and f/20
And finally this is one similar to yours with 143 images stacked in Sequator. That is an exceptionally dark location so you can get a back lit image from the light from the milky way. I even got a fair amount of sky glow (the greens and purples in the sky) which I had never seen before.

When it comes to distortion it usually isn't a problem with a handful of shots and yes hugin does a very good job of handling it with a few shots with not much movement of stars but lots of programs will struggle with large movements of things across the frame unless there is very little distortion.
Wow--thatís a lot of useful information! Thanks for going OT with me.
02-24-2021, 03:26 PM - 3 Likes   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by wkraus Quote
Wow--that’s a lot of useful information! Thanks for going OT with me.
Well if someone asks a question of me I at least try to provide a good answer. Sounds like you found the info useful so I succeeded. Stacking and stitching are just another tool to be used that can provide some useful results and there are all sorts of methods for stacking and combining images. For the regular monthly photo contest I submitted a pixelshift stacked stitched city scape that I took on a cold hazy night and the stacking and stitching was done in Hugin as it is a good tool.

One shot I really want to try if I can get a few weeks of clear nights is an all terminator shot of the moon like this one. I had actually wanted to do one before seeing that but haven't had a stretch of weather to do it and didn't know if it would turn out awesome or a hot mess, but it turns out even more awesome than I would have expected. Hugin is the tool one wants to be using for a shot like that for alignment and then using the enfuse command line tool in it to combine each night's shots. If I could pull it off I would love to get 3+ weeks of shots so you get the waxing and waning contrast across the moon. Stack each nights shots to get a super smooth clear super res image for each night and then align and combine each nights' shot after aligning them in Hugin and blend together using enfuse favoring contrast and saturation. I would probably end up taking 2-3 thousand shots but hey I bought the camera to use it and eventually wear it out.

Last edited by MossyRocks; 02-24-2021 at 03:48 PM.
02-24-2021, 10:58 PM - 4 Likes   #41
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I got the Rokinon 20/1.8 ED AS UMC to shoot the Milky Way. It seems to be made for that job. Fast and with low coma, its focal length frames the Galactic Center just about right on the K-1.

02-24-2021, 11:09 PM - 8 Likes   #42
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My fav lens (given the thread rules) is my Voigtlšnder Color Skopar 20mm f/3.5 for the reasons JensE posted above.... almost like a no brainer DA15 equiv for the K1.

But.... a DA 10-17 entry for me.... mostly because I never thought I'd be taking pixel shifted images of live insects with it.

The most patient Dragon Fly ever
02-25-2021, 02:48 PM - 3 Likes   #43
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The DA 15 is quite versatile and Iím sure I have technically better images but this one makes me smile every time. My silly cat tried to pat the camera as I took this shot.

IMGP1403-pp by -vanya_42nd-
02-25-2021, 04:08 PM - 2 Likes   #44
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The DA 16-45mm f4 gave me some of my best images ever. I just clicked with that lens - the bold colors and the strong look to the images. Too bad the wobble of the inner tube got so bad it became decentered unless I held the front of the lens just at the right spot...
Last year I bought the DA*16-50 as a replacement, but still have a soft spot for the 16-45.

Castillo de San Marcos, at 16mm...
02-26-2021, 11:32 PM - 8 Likes   #45
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My favorite UWA lens - Venus Laowa 12mm F2.8 ZeroD
This lens is sharp from F4.0 onwards (didn't try F2.8 though) when focus is set to infinity. Works very well with 10 stops ND filter which I just need to frame and press shutter button unlike other AF UWA lens like Sigma 10-20 F4-5.6 need to remove the dark filter in order to auto focus.


Singapore Central Business District Skyline + LV - 8 shots pano stitched
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Last edited by kengoh; 02-26-2021 at 11:37 PM.
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