[wibbly]

dura ace gives you more consistency, auto trimming, and no cables to adjust or fail. it's probably an easier system to own, albeit harder to purchase initially

rotor has a very interesting hydraulically actuated shifting system that i really like the idea of.

[Doundounba]

No Dura-Ace on this bike, I'm afraid. But that pigeon really seemed to love it nonetheless. (OK, perhaps a bit of a stretch for this thread...)

[timb64]

Not going to win the Tour de France on this one either!

[clackers]

Froome could win on a cargo bike. :-P

[Paul Pheiffer]

Cool. I saw one in our local bike shop the other day with an 11speed cassette.

I still use a 3 and 9 combination and even here it is possible to get a "cross-chain" situation if you don't select your gears properly.
How on earth do you ride with a 1 and 11 combination without getting you chain ring gear eaten up by the chain ?

[dngr]

I still use a 3 and 9 combination and even here it is possible to get a "cross-chain" situation if you don't select your gears properly.
How on earth do you ride with a 1 and 11 combination without getting you chain ring gear eaten up by the chain ?

Not entirely sure what you mean, but I've been running a 1x10 system for a couple months now, my buddy has been on 1x10 for a year or so and neither of us have had any issues. The majority of mountain bikes coming out now are spec'd with 1x11. The width of the chain is narrower on a 10 speed cassette compared to a 9 speed, and same goes for a 11 speed. The front chain rings my buddy and I use are stamped aluminium in a narrow/wide configuration (the teeth alternate between narrow and wide sizes to better hold on to the chain).

[MarkJerling]

dura ace gives you more consistency, auto trimming, and no cables to adjust or fail. it's probably an easier system to own, albeit harder to purchase initially

rotor has a very interesting hydraulically actuated shifting system that i really like the idea of.

Fascinating. Quite a few in our club uses Di2. But, quite funny when they forget to charge the batteries!

[Paul Pheiffer]

Not entirely sure what you mean, ...

"Cross-chain" happens when you use your gears in such a way that the chain runs from one extreme on the back cluster to the other extreme on the front chain ring set, e.g. lowest gear at the back and highest gear at the front, or the other way round.
This causes the chain to rub against the side of the gears, and the chain ring in particular gets worn away quickly, being softer aluminium. Usually the chain will also start rubbing against the front derailleur chain guides.
I typically do not use more than the first halve on the back cluster before shifting to the middle chain ring. Same for the third chain ring, I only use the last half of the back cluster in combination with the big blade.
Making the chain narrower will no doubt make the back cluster also narrower, but 10 and 11 speed with just one chain ring seems like you must be close to a "Cross-chain" situation when in low or high gear...

[LarsW]

[mattb123]

I still use a 3 and 9 combination and even here it is possible to get a "cross-chain" situation if you don't select your gears properly.
How on earth do you ride with a 1 and 11 combination without getting you chain ring gear eaten up by the chain ?

My 1x11 is the SRAM system with a high tension rear derailleur that has a clutch to remove tension you use when you need to work on it.
Works great except I had a screw back out a little giving me bad shifting but one it was discovered it was an easy fix.

[dngr]

"Cross-chain" happens when you use your gears in such a way that the chain runs from one extreme on the back cluster to the other extreme on the front chain ring set, e.g. lowest gear at the back and highest gear at the front, or the other way round.
This causes the chain to rub against the side of the gears, and the chain ring in particular gets worn away quickly, being softer aluminium. Usually the chain will also start rubbing against the front derailleur chain guides.
I typically do not use more than the first halve on the back cluster before shifting to the middle chain ring. Same for the third chain ring, I only use the last half of the back cluster in combination with the big blade.
Making the chain narrower will no doubt make the back cluster also narrower, but 10 and 11 speed with just one chain ring seems like you must be close to a "Cross-chain" situation when in low or high gear...

Ah, gotcha. I only run one ring up front and did away with my upper chainguide (not related to chain wearing against it, just fell apart) and with no front derailleur, no issues!

Matt, I love the clutch on my Shimano derailleur, so nice

[wombat2go]

"Cross-chain" happens when you use your gears in such a way that the chain runs from one extreme on the back cluster to the other extreme on the front chain ring set, e.g. lowest gear at the back and highest gear at the front, or the other way round.

A good explanation for the not-so-tech bikers.
I only ride a clunker these days with 21 "speeds". It was explained to me a few years ago and I continue to follow it:
In "1" we should use from lowest to about halfway.
In "2" we should use the midway 4 or so.
In "3" we should use the highest 4.

[clackers]

.
How on earth do you ride with a 1 and 11 combination without getting you chain ring gear eaten up by the chain ?

Well, with your triple chainring it's possible to stretch your chain up to nine cogs out from the edge.

But if you go to a single chainring you don't have to offset, it can be put dead in the middle. The chain doesn't have to move any more than five sideways - you're much better off.

A friend's bought a 1x11 gravel grinder with a massive 42 tooth sprocket in the cassette.

[mattb123]

The upcoming SRAM 1x12 has a really big range that should make anyone's longing for multiple rings up front fade. My 1x11 has a little less at the top and bottom of the range compared to my old 3x10 but the new system is supposed to exceed the old range on a single ring.

[timb64]

My bike's got a bell