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01-19-2014, 09:53 PM   #1
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Intro & Question

Intro & Qustion.
My name is Lorberboim Haim. Retired. Painting and travelling most of my time, mostly in S E Asia, live mainly in Chiang Mai, Thailand and Jerusalem, Israel.
New to Pentax Having K 30, About to buy a K3?
Reading some posts already Amazed and encouraged by the knowledge and willingness of forum members.
I was about to ask the same questions, having the same experience.


I bought my first Pentax, K 30 last year.
Since my main planned use for the SLR was to take more professional photos of my art (Paintings, mainly Soft Pastels on paper A3 size) works in my studio.
Actually, after looking in catalogues I decided it will be a Nikon. As trying it at the shop I could not see an improvement over my compact Canon S100, so asked the sales man if he has a suggestion.
He handed me the K 30 to try and after just one shot I fell in love with it, and take it everywhere since.
Settings:
I take my shots at a shaded tarace, use tripod, 12 sec delay. Camera settings (afraid to mention) scene/landscape adjusting the exposure to my feel - usually one full step minus. Lenses Pentax 50 1:2. Manual focus.

Where I live, cannot try K3 before I buy. And buying lenses just used by EBay. Just order by mail.
I will be glad for any suggestions.
What do you think about this upgrading?
My most wish is to have even more sharper images.
Haim

01-19-2014, 10:43 PM   #2
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some last shots of artwork

I loaded some last shots of artwork.
IMGP9530 a1 - lorberboim's Album: Lorberboim Paintings - PentaxForums.com


resized to the forums spec. from the raw files.
another confusing thing - the picture in live view at shooting looks better than the actual shot on the camera screen.

Thanks,
Haim
01-19-2014, 11:47 PM   #3
dms
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Hard to say at the low resolution here. They do look somewhat low--but that's also the nature of the medium (pastel).

But if the photo has less sharpness than in live view--are you taking the picture at 12 sec or 2 sec timer? You say 12 sec? The 12 sec does not turn off shake reduction (SR) and it does not flip the mirror up until the shot is taken--and at the shutter speeds you are taking the mirror slamming up causes some shaking--can be bad!

You need to use 2 sec (which turns of SR) and if not then be sure the SR is off (on a tripod).

I have taken 100's of art photo's of my wife's largish canvases (up to 4'x5' about) and plenty of detail w/ a k20d.

An increase to 24 MP will be an increase in resolution of only 25% about (not 50%) although no AA filter will make it a bit better. But I think you need to resolve it by looking at your camera technique. Also the contrast can be helped by lighting and polarizing filters--although again with pastel it's not a big difference (not like acrylic or oil).

Last edited by dms; 01-20-2014 at 01:51 AM.
01-20-2014, 02:15 AM   #4
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Hi,
Thanks for the tip.
Already applied.
I uploaded 2 shots with original resolution cropped.
The bike is a shot taken before, with 12 sec delay
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/members/66420-lorberboim/albums/7758-bike/picture68681.jpg


. The house is with 2 sec delay and shot manually. All my shots are day light on shaded balcony.

Still the live view on camera screen show a way more sharp, vivid, nice and crisp picture than the same shot right there and then.

Haim






01-20-2014, 02:42 AM   #5
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Welcome to the forum, if its ultimate quality you want, then K-3 should help improve matters.

As dms suggests, mirror up and SR off, also try reducing down your ISO setting to 100 and opening up the aperture of your lens to it's sweet spot, which is usually around the f5.6 to f8 range.

A large depth of field is not required for a flat subject, as long as the corners still remain sharp at the given aperture.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.
01-20-2014, 04:41 AM   #6
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Hi,
I probably am doing something wrong – I cannot find how to set the ISO on 100, even on M mode. Lowest is 200.
Still I’m puzzled by the difference between the live view on camera screen and the picture taken on that screen.
Haim
01-20-2014, 05:09 AM   #7
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The K-30 does have a range of 100-12800 and when expanded it goes up to 25600, you'll need to go into the menus to enable this.

Aye the K-3 also has a range of 100-51200 which I believe is on by default, just hang on a minute, one of the K-3 owners will no doubt come along shortly to confirm or tell you how to set this up. (I don't have a K-30 or K-3, otherwise I'd tell you more).

Last edited by Kerrowdown; 01-20-2014 at 06:21 AM.
01-20-2014, 09:58 AM   #8
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ISO 200 is the native mode on your K30. You won't gain much be using the extended region - it will just underexpose the shot and then bring it up in post. Here are where I would start:

Record Mode:
RAW or RAW+. JPEG isn't enough. It only has 256 shades in each of the three colour channels. 12 bit RAW has 4096.
Drive Mode: 3 sec remote or 2 sec with wired release.
ISO: lowest without using extended range
White Balance: Shade, or Cloudy. AWB will change it for every picture.
Exposure: Manual. Camera meters are set to 18% grey. Take a few sample shots at various shutter speeds and compare them on your computer, not the camera LCD.
Aperture: As Kerrowdown suggests. If your 50/1.2 is an "A", "F", or "FA" lens, set the camera program line to MTF and take a shot of anything at all. The picture EXIF will show you the sharpest aperture on the lens. Otherwise the old adage of f/8 and be there will probably be within 0.5 stops of the absolutely sharpest aperture.

01-20-2014, 10:08 AM   #9
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PS. The K-3 has 24 megapixels which will resolve more detail in your images.
01-20-2014, 10:11 AM   #10
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1. To make a better test take a shot of a newspaper--lots of smaller detail unlike pastel
2. Take highlight setting off to get to iso 100
3. use a gray card (or a hue free white sheet) and set it right next the picture and take a reading and then set the camera exposure 1 e.v . greater (or 3 e.v. higher is using white sheet). Actually after you take the shot check the histogram and increase the exposure to point just short of blowing the highlights. If the gray card/white paper is just showing an inch or so you can crop it out when done/when showing your work.
4. Then in your processing of the raw image you can fix the exposure (your exposures are too low, and this causes more noise in darker areas). Also when in your raw computer program you can (should) sample the gray card (or the white paper) to set the white balance.
01-20-2014, 10:30 AM   #11
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CanadianRockies suggests 12 bit is insufficient for the colors--I think you need to judge that. I did not find this to be the case in large range of art work, but it may be for you. After processing your picture convert it to 8 bit and compare.

Also your color in processing software ideally should be Adobe RGB (or Prophoto RGB which is better/but again I think you will see no difference) and in 8 bit you should also check out sRGB (believe the option is something like "convert to another color mode"). You would normally save a lower resolution sRGB jpg copy to show/share w/ others.

As regards the increased resolution w/ K3--if the pictures look low in resolution now, the increased resolution will likely not help as of following (c) is doubtful:
(a) you are doing something wrong,
(b) have faulty lens, or
(c) faulty camera.

For (b) try another lens, (c) seems unlikely, Most likely faulty technique (a) as you say live view is sharper--although this is/maybe hard to judge properly.

Edit/addition: I am pretty sure finding best lens (sharpness) setting (highest MTF) is not available with an A lens. Likely begins w/F or FA lens, and 50mm f/2 Pentax lens is not an F or FA lens. Sharpest is likely about 3 stops down (f/5.6-f/8 as mentioned above), but f/11 will be about same and will better allow for focusing errors/uneven paper--I suggest you stay w/ f/11.

Last edited by dms; 01-20-2014 at 10:44 AM.
01-20-2014, 10:52 AM   #12
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Your pictures have a sharp line (right hand vertical edge) where the newsprint ends--where the tape hold it flat on a board.

CAN YOU SEND ANOTHER JPG WHERE THIS SHOWS.

It is a better way to see if the pictures are sharp or not--again because pastel is by it's nature very soft (no hard edges).
01-20-2014, 11:12 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by dms Quote
CanadianRockies suggests 12 bit is insufficient for the colors--I think you need to judge that. I did not find this to be the case in large range of art work, but it may be for you. After processing your picture convert it to 8 bit and compare.
I believe you misunderstood. I was pointing out that RAW 12 bit has a colour depth of 4096 shades, as opposed to the 256 shades in JPEG - a whole bunch more. My apologies if my post was unclear. My K10D is 12 bit RAW. I think the K3 is 14 bits, which is even better.
01-20-2014, 11:27 AM   #14
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CanadaRockies,
No your post was clear, I did not read it carefully or misremembered. And looking back my comment about 12 vs 8 bits is the one that is unclear. Anyway yes I was thinking: 14 bits in K3, 12 bits in K30, and also OP should look at 8 bits (as that is what he will use for web, etc.).
You know it would be nice if the reply window did not close the earlier posts from view--as I often would like to look back at a post before committing to the (new) reply.
Anyway, thanks.
dms
01-20-2014, 12:12 PM   #15
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When you are in the reply window, you can usually scroll up and down. Try it. It might be browser dependent. I use Firefox.
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