Originally posted by SKYoung I find that while I understand the settings on my camera I'm constantly adjusting my aperture and ISO to get the shot I envision. If anyone has any tricks or reminders they find helpful please feel free to share!
Hello Shannon, Welcome to the Forum!
My system may not be too much different than yours, but it's quick and easy enough for me.
In Av (aperture priority) mode, I set the lens f/stop (rear thumb wheel) for a decent 'sweet spot', the range where most lenses provide the sharpest image and least distortion. This is generally considered 1-1/12 to 2 stops 'down' (lower f/stop) from the maximum aperture. Then I press the shutter 1/2 way to see what type of shutter speed this provides, using base or lowest ISO, usually ISO 100.
So, with a lens having a maximum aperture of f/2.8, I'd scroll (R. thumb wheel) to f/4.5 or f/5.6. If this provides a shutter speed about twice the focal length (1/200s for a 100mm, as an example), I'll click off a test frame and check the histogram and data. From there I might bracket 1/3 over and under.
With any lens, I stay above 1/100s, unless I'm using a tripod.
If you need a certain depth of field, the 'sweet spot' might not provide enough, or too much. Bokeh/shallow DOF, subject isolation, blurred out backgrounds would be likely suspects for opening up the aperture, whereas maximum DOF or longer exposure time would need smaller (higher number, like f/16) apertures.
If I find I'm changing ISO too much, I'll switch to TAv (Time/aperture value, you set the aperture and shutter speed manually, using front and rear thumb wheels, meter selects a 'floating' ISO to provide proper exposure), then dial in a good shutter speed and f/stop.
I find either of these to be as useful, fast, reliable and easy as any program and much faster than full manual.
Then again, I work slowly and bracket a lot!
JMO,
Ron