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07-23-2014, 03:27 PM   #1
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I posted earlier and I left out a lot of information

I have no real experience in film photography but I like it more then digital the k1000 I have was a gift from my gf and others I've bought (super program, progam plus)at a decent price.. I purchased fujicolor x-tra800 35mm film, majority of my pictures come out really blurry, or just don't develop properly (Walgreen's is who develops for me since I don't know how myself), but every now and then I get a handful that come out just perfect.. I am a amateur at best but I really want to learn how to use my cameras to their full potential on my k1000 I have a pentax -A 50mm lens and 49mm HOYA skylight filter, i also have a Sigma Zoom-k III 75~210mm, and on my Program Plus I have a Osawa MC 28mm lens I'll eventually figure out how to post pics so you guys can see what's bad and what I at least think is good I really appreciate the advice and help and hopefully soon I'll be able to share beautiful pics with everyone..

07-23-2014, 04:02 PM - 1 Like   #2
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Film Shooter?

Hello xulix, welcome to the Forum!
From what I can tell, your photos look sharp and well-captured. It seems that your focusing and exposure skills are working correctly and you have some interesting ideas. First, I'd suggest keeping a small notebook and pen in your bag. Try to record as many aperture/f/stop settings as you can.
Knowing what settings caused which result is a great teacher.
Next, if you're interested in shooting through windows for composition, you'll need a circular polarizing filter (CPL) to cut the glare and reflections. The Pentax 50mm lens is probably a 49mm filter size and that's a great fit, many Pentax prime lenses to this day, use that size. So, as you increase your lens collection....
It's called 'LBA' and you'll be hearing it a lot.
You might try a roll or two of black and white. Another great teaching tool.
Try to find a reliable film processing outlet. Make sure your negs are handled, treated and stored properly, very important. I usually just get 'develop film, 2 contact sheets and a disc scan', no prints. A negative scanner could be in your future!
Good luck, keep posting photos!
Ron
07-23-2014, 05:36 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by rbefly Quote
Hello xulix, welcome to the Forum!
From what I can tell, your photos look sharp and well-captured. It seems that your focusing and exposure skills are working correctly and you have some interesting ideas. First, I'd suggest keeping a small notebook and pen in your bag. Try to record as many aperture/f/stop settings as you can.
Knowing what settings caused which result is a great teacher.
Next, if you're interested in shooting through windows for composition, you'll need a circular polarizing filter (CPL) to cut the glare and reflections. The Pentax 50mm lens is probably a 49mm filter size and that's a great fit, many Pentax prime lenses to this day, use that size. So, as you increase your lens collection....
It's called 'LBA' and you'll be hearing it a lot.
You might try a roll or two of black and white. Another great teaching tool.
Try to find a reliable film processing outlet. Make sure your negs are handled, treated and stored properly, very important. I usually just get 'develop film, 2 contact sheets and a disc scan', no prints. A negative scanner could be in your future!
Good luck, keep posting photos!
Ron


All those pictures were taken with my SuperProgram everything set to automatic...
my problem is I don't really understand the whole aperture settings and shutter speed etc. etc.
most of those were simply point and click and out of a roll of 24 tthose were the only clear ones the rest were extremely blurry
07-23-2014, 07:10 PM - 1 Like   #4
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First thing, film speed. Low ISO films (eg Iso 100), tend to give you the best image quality (low grain), but need a lot of light (so good for daylight, not so good at night without a tripod). The higher the ISO number, the less light you need, but that comes at the expense of more film grain. Make sure you set the camera to the correct ISo number for the film you've loaded!

Next, aperture. Big numbers (eg f22) are like a pinhole camera. The aperture is closed (stopped down loads), so everything in the image will be in focus, but exposure times will need to be very long (because less light is coming through the lens). Big apertures (ie a small f-stop number such as f1.7 or f2.0) will let in lots of light, but give you lots of out-of-focus areas infront and behind your focus point (aka bokeh). For portraits, you probably want lots of bokeh, for landscapes you'll probably want the extra detail. Generally most lenses perform best when stopped down a couple of steps (so probably somewhere in the f2.8 to f4 range for your 50mm).

So the first thing to do on your k1000 is choose the right f-stop for your subject matter (this can be selected by rotating the aperture ring on the lens - avoid the 'a' setting on the k1000 though - that'll only work on your other film bodies)

I'm assuming the k1000 has the light meter in the viewfinder (I've only used the KM, which is the model above). The light meter should be the needle on the righthand side as you look through the viewfinder. The aim is to get it in the centre by changing the shutter speed.

If the needle is too low, you'll need a longer shutter speed (you don't have enough light, so the shutter will need to stay open longer). If its too high, you'll need a quicker shutter speed (because otherwise, too much light will come through, and over expose the film)

If you can't get it in the middle, you may need to rethink your aperture (with Iso 800 film, you probably won't be able to use your 50mm at f1.7 in bright sunshine for example, so you may need to stop down a bit).

Once it's in the middle, double check your focus and framing, then take the shot. That's it.

On your other camera bodies, if the aperture on the lens is set to 'a', and the camera is set to 'auto', then it will do all of that for you. If you choose the aperture manually (by rotating the aperture ring to the value you want), then the shutter speed will be calculated for you (nice and easy!). The shutter speed should be displayed on the LCD at the bottom of the viewfinder on the 'a' bodies. It might flash 1000 at you if the image will over expose (I can't remember how the program a works here - I think it will just flash?). If you set the camera to 'm', it will work much like the k1000 (ie you'll have to select the shutter speed yourself - the LCD on the right is the light meter [which will display -3 to +3, you're aiming for zero]. The LCD on the left is the shutter speed, which you can select using the up/down buttons.

The only thing you need to be careful of is having an exposure that is too long (which may lead to blurry shots). I wouldn't go lower than 1/30 personally, and generally prefer at least 1/60.

That's basically all that there is to know!

---------- Post added 07-24-14 at 04:00 AM ----------

Ok, so the picture at the bottom left (hands on head shot). It must be using a big f-stop (maybe f16?) You can tell because the buildings in the distance are in focus, as well as everything up close.

The marble picture has a softer blurred background, so it must have been taken with a bigger aperture (maybe f5.6 or f8?).

Since you're using ISo 800 film (which is possibly a little high for outdoor shots like that), the camera has decided to close the aperture quite a lot to ensure you don't overexpose (assuming you set the correct ISO)

If you were to take some shots in the evening (or indoors), you should be able to find a shutter speed that would let you fully open the aperture (f1.7 or f2), which would have the effect of blurring the whole background (especially on the marble shot, because the closer you focus, the more bokeh you get)

---------- Post added 07-24-14 at 04:02 AM ----------

One final thing, once you've pressed the shutter, wait a second before moving the camera away. I often see people who click, and immediately move the camera. That can often lead to blurry photos


Last edited by robthebloke; 07-23-2014 at 07:22 PM.
07-24-2014, 01:25 PM   #5
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Welcome to the forum,as long as you enjoy your photography as you go along, if every shot was perfect every time, it would soon get boring.
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