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09-25-2015, 01:07 AM - 1 Like   #1
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Brand new to Forum and Cameras

Dear fellow distinguished members:

I only finally got around to buying k-50 a few days ago after considering photography as a hobby my entire life. So far it has been fun besides cloudy everyday since I got the camera. I would like to thank the developers of the site, and the members of the forum for the wealth of information that is of great assistance in figuring out how to operate the camera and produce quality pictures (in-time). All the tremendously motivational pictures that I see people posting are very exciting and give me something to strive for.

So yeah, that is great! The most difficulty I am having, seeing as I have been working nights and waking up late to cloudy afternoons, is objects appearing too dark against the sky or photographing things in the shade with bright light behind it. For example this lady was way too dark, and ending up looking like a green screen or something because of how much processing I did later. It is a totally weird pic, I never got a in focus balanced composition of that insanely green fountain, but two small water drops aligned with her nipples, so the perfect timing was enough to make me happy. Same thing with my friend, the bright background looks funny... Any advice on how to improve pictures in the shade, not in direct light, or pictures with varying amount of light in the frame would be of interest.

Please forgive any errors in the format of my thread/post or whatever you call it. I have also never used a forum before. I used a M series 50mm f1.7 which I like very much more than the kit lens. If you don't like my question, don't answer it. I am perfectly within my rights to sound like an inexperienced naive moron and I particularly enjoy it!!

Assuming my plan of using catch in focus with continuous shooting gives me more shots in better focus than my eye seems to be able to do, what's up with all these shadows?, just link a good article or relevant thread if you are weary of repetitious questioning, I had troubling find a good one. Thks!!

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09-25-2015, 02:19 AM - 2 Likes   #2
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You could use fill-in flash to light the foreground subject, dial in some exposure compensation (+), or change your metering from matrix/evaluative to spot metering and meter for the foreground subject.
09-25-2015, 02:55 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by veato Quote
You could use fill-in flash to light the foreground subject, dial in some exposure compensation (+), or change your metering from matrix/evaluative to spot metering and meter for the foreground subject.
Awesome!! Thank you. I had assumed it was metering in the focus spot. I have not used the flash yet. Those are great ideas. Thank you for those tips. I know it seems simple to more experienced people, but it is a lot to think about at once. Spot metering sounds easier than repeatedly trying higher compensations as the manual lenses are fun but easy to forget something. I am going to reasearch the fill-in flash and see what it is all about. Have a good one!!
09-25-2015, 03:06 AM - 1 Like   #4
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You can (or I think you can, I've not used your model camera) automatically bracket for exposure compensation so a single press of the shutter will give you a few exposure variations to choose from. Worth trying if manually bracketing individual shots is going to be fiddly.

Exposure Bracketing 101 - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com

09-25-2015, 05:19 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by veato Quote
You can (or I think you can, I've not used your model camera) automatically bracket for exposure compensation so a single press of the shutter will give you a few exposure variations to choose from. Worth trying if manually bracketing individual shots is going to be fiddly.

Exposure Bracketing 101 - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com
Yes it does, it seems easy to use and should be very handy in these situations. I will have to try to next time.
09-25-2015, 05:28 AM - 1 Like   #6
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If you used the old manual lens the camera used center weighted not matrix evaluation which is not as "smart" at adapting to lighting like this. The kit lens might render the exposure a bit different. Spot metering may help but the sky or background will get blown out if you adjust to the subject.

If you shoot raw you may be able to get both in acceptable exposure with post processing.
09-25-2015, 05:41 AM - 1 Like   #7
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I think you could just bump the exposure a little and then lift the shadows in post-processing and that fountain image would be great. Maybe boost the contrast, too.

The second one is tricky in post. You may be able to reduce the highlights to knock the overexposed background down. You could always increase the exposure to lighten the subject, too. That image is probably going to have an overexposed background at the end, but you can reduce it a bit.

Have fun with your new hobby, there's a lot to learn but that's a good thing.
09-25-2015, 06:34 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
If you used the old manual lens the camera used center weighted not matrix evaluation which is not as "smart" at adapting to lighting like this. The kit lens might render the exposure a bit different. Spot metering may help but the sky or background will get blown out if you adjust to the subject.

If you shoot raw you may be able to get both in acceptable exposure with post processing.
You are correct it was defaulted on center weighted when I checked it. I was playing with the flash, it seems the pop up flash will be difficult to balance in these situations. If it is an important picture I will just remember to save the raw file. The flash seems to be strong even at the lowest setting to balance a light shadow, but I will try at the next opportunity. Then I found this whole chart with math about the flash distances. I never had so much fun!!

---------- Post added 09-25-15 at 06:39 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by TER-OR Quote
I think you could just bump the exposure a little and then lift the shadows in post-processing and that fountain image would be great. Maybe boost the contrast, too.

The second one is tricky in post. You may be able to reduce the highlights to knock the overexposed background down. You could always increase the exposure to lighten the subject, too. That image is probably going to have an overexposed background at the end, but you can reduce it a bit.

Have fun with your new hobby, there's a lot to learn but that's a good thing.
Thank you, I do have fun. I like all the pictures for one reason or another, sometimes just for the lesson. Thank you! Contrast would help I need to get that lightzone freeware I think, my software is crude with big blanket adjustments. So by the time I figure out the camera, the software, and what to take pictures of I should have no time left to get in any trouble.

09-25-2015, 08:21 AM - 1 Like   #9
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Personal recommendation on on-board flash. Use a larger f/stop and lower ISO if you are getting washed out shots. Switch to X sync if all else fails. Try tissue paper or even printer paper as a cheap diffuser if the distance is short.
09-25-2015, 02:33 PM - 1 Like   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by CarsonDude Quote
Dear fellow distinguished members:
Welcome, well at least I know your not talking to me.

Lots of good advice given, let us know how you get on.
09-25-2015, 07:01 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Personal recommendation on on-board flash. Use a larger f/stop and lower ISO if you are getting washed out shots. Switch to X sync if all else fails. Try tissue paper or even printer paper as a cheap diffuser if the distance is short.
Thanks! I am washing out all over the place!
09-25-2015, 07:47 PM   #12
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Results, one decent use of fill-in flash!

I was able to get a better than nothing result using the flash. It is super hard, but overall I had fun on my first outing photo outing. I think the flash was able to get the right light on the silo, if I would have had a wider angle lens and less things dangling I think I was beginning to get it. I still have a repeated problem with over exposing the sky. I tried to use fill-in flash and metering for the sky only several times with this same shot, but then everything would just be over exposed, since I am already at the maximum shutter speed allowed with the flash, aperture and iso is what to keep working on? I tried lower iso, and will experiment more with smaller aperture! Thanks again everybody! I added what I thought where the best pictures to a gallery. Also, photography is better exercise than I expected!!!
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09-25-2015, 08:54 PM   #13
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The on board flash is not very powerful. That silo shoot may have required a bit stronger flash.
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