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09-20-2016, 04:16 PM   #31
mee
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QuoteOriginally posted by dsp52 Quote
Yeah, I agree. It's probably a little overexposed. Most of these shots were taken mid-day with very bright sun. I wasn't able to take advantage of early morning or late-in-the-day sunlight...what do they call it, the "golden hours"? I have a "free" post-processing software program on my computer, but I'm still figuring out how to use it, so none of these photos have been altered in any way.

Besides a polarizing filter, does anyone have any suggestions for any other filters that may be beneficial? I've read about most of them, but I don't know how often I would need them.
A 10 stop Neutral Density filter (ND1000) would be useful if you want to take long exposures (dreamy/soft water and skies). It requires a tripod or some way to fix the camera though as you'll be keeping the shutter open for a long time (a couple of minutes isn't out of the ordinary). Please note the dirt cheap ones tend to color cast heavily. You may also see a loss of detail.

The cheapest one I found that seems to have the least amount of cast and detail loss for cheap is the Vu Filters over at Adorama (cheapest place to get them AFAIK). If you have cash to spend the Breakthrough Photography 10 stop filter seems to be cream of the crop. But your mileage may vary.

Also note, you'll need to cover the viewfinder when shooting with it as the light entering through the VF will throw the exposure way off. That is, if you pick up a 10 stop NDF. (or for anyone else reading this and interested) Might also need to prefocus before attaching the filter.. it will be DARK in the viewfinder haha.

09-21-2016, 03:32 AM   #32
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If the sunshine is bright, and you're shooting at iso 100, then I tend to knock the exposure down by -0.3 or -0.7 ev. If you're shooting in raw, it's trivial to bump the exposure (and not gain much noise - ymmv if you're shooting at high iso). Having looked at your exif though, I see you're already doing that. If it's that bright, iso 100, and a little post processing of raw files would sort the problem right out (there's nothing in that shot that is horribly blowing the highlights, so a minor touch of exposure adjustment in raw would probably have been enough - if the highlights were blown, then there wouldn't be much you could do. Not so in this case I feel - just shoot in raw and adjust in the software that came with the camera)
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