I've actually watched (and enjoyed) a number of your videos - particularly on the K1. Excellent work!!! Pentax really is in need of all the good exposure they can get.
I've been shooting with Pentax AstroTracer since it came out (I always seem to be experimenting with it) - initially with the o-gps1 using the K5 with the Sigma 18-35/f1.8 lens. Then about 5 years ago I bumped up to the K1 (mk I). I upgraded to the K1 to capture better star colors in the Milky Way. Let me add here that I ran into a gentleman out in the field one evening - he had just picked up a K70 and was trying to shoot the Milky Way. I pulled out my GPS unit and we put the Sigma 18-35/f1.8 on his body and he shot his first really great MW image right out of the gate. The K70 with the 18-35 is an absolutely perfect (and fairly inexpensive) combination for MW shooting. It equals the K1 (mk I) in terms of dynamic range (mainly due to the Acceleration Chip) especially in terms of star color. The K70 was announced about the time I picked up my K1 - I might have actually went for the K70 (I feel that it's that good - especially with the 18-35 which is the perfect MW lens).
In terms of astro, all I really shoot is wide field milky way - have not really gone into any deep sky. I did do some stacking with an old Tak 85mm/f1.8, at 3-second subs. Aligned and stacked several hundred of them.
I'm a software engineer/systems architect that had an opportunity to design the star tracking system for a
little telescope down in Texas. As such, I've been somewhat frustrated to understand the source of the edge/corner distortion of astrotracing.
Pentax has done a good job in describing the system at a high level, especially their use case. However in terms of differences - in particular with respect to EQ mounts, really nothing has been addressed. You may/probably already realize this - but just in case, let me bore you to death for a minute.
There are a couple of fundamental differences between an EQ mount's approach when compared to Pentax AstroTracer's approach
- EQ Tracking - A EQ tracking mount, takes the traditional approach treating the camera (sensor) and lens as a single monolithic unit and rotates it around the earth's polar axis to stabilize the stars. If you take successive shots, the stars will/should stay stationary within the frame (given error-free tracking).
- AstroTracer (AT) Tracking - The AstroTracer tracks by moving the internal sensor in opposition to the earth's rotation, within the clamped and immobile camera body with the attached lens. Essentially, Pentax uses X-axis, Y-axis, and combined XY-axis twisting movement to simulate the EQ Trackers polar axis rotation. This works very well for periods of time of about 1.5 to 2.5 minutes (even though the mirror box within the camera body has space for the sensor to move for about 5 minutes of tracking time) and depending on the amount of star trailing you are willing to tolerate. This approach does introduce some error into the image (the star trailing within the corners and along the edges). This induced error has a couple of sources; 1) rotational distortion - when the sensor moves in the XY plane in a twisting motion - think of an airplane's propeller. The tips of the propeller move (angular distance) at a much faster rate than does the center of the propeller - hence the bulk of the star trailing in the corners/edges. 2) Lens distortion - lenses are designed to have the light come through a single point on the lens face to strike the sensor. With AT, both the sensor and the stars are in motion, so during the long exposure, the light hitting the sensor will be moving across and through the stationary lens. The corners/edges of a wide-angle lens will slightly amplify this distortion a bit with its movement across the lens. Also, since the camera/lens are immobile, when taking a series of frames, the stars will move out of the frame, forcing the photographer to reframe the overall image in time.
With the difference in tracking approaches - why use the Pentax AstroTracer? For me, I'm looking for good natural star colors across the Milky Way over landscape frame. Out in the field, the MW is not really all that colorful and blown out as it appears in many images. Using a 15mm lens, with a 90 second tracked exposure, which works out to be 6x longer than a non-tracked shot (~15 seconds) [Note, I like to use the online calculator at
Night Sky Photography Shutter Speed Calculator – tl-photography ]. I have an easier setup, no alignment problems, an easy 1-minute calibration and I'm ready to shoot. Even though I'm in the Arizona Territories, I usually have an unobstructed horizon, but up north there are forests, where the trees obscure Polaris, which leaves you guesstimating your polar alignment.
My friend (with the K70) picked up a star tracker (which works very well) for 4-minute exposures and they look absolutely stunning. He uses AT about 70% of the time and the tracker about 20%. We bring an extra tripod for the star tracker, so that he shoots using AT while he's futzing with the polar alignment on his EQ tracker. I just like the ease and simplicity of the Pentax astrotracer approach. I get more star light, better star color, while maintaining a very natural overall pleasing image.
A couple of months ago, my friend decided to upgrade to the K1 mk II, which with the Acceleration Chip has an
improved dynamic range of about 1.5 stops. The choice of the body was easy, The difficult decision was the lens. The K mount does have a limited selection of fast wide-angle lenses, especially faster than f2.8. He picked up 2, the Sigma 35/f1.4 and the Rokinon 14/f2.8. The problem is, with the fast wide lenses, comes vignetting and coma, where stopping down to f2.8 or so removes a lot of the problems. You wind up having to stop down your fast wide lens, for improved image quality - thereby somewhat removing the advantages of the lens. You can also stitch (50%) to cover the corners/edges with the center of adjacent frames. This is where Sony, Nikon, Fuji, and Canon have some lens advantages - but you give up the astrotracer. So, it all comes down to balancing and selecting your tradeoffs in terms of how you shoot along with the results that you want to capture. As touched on earlier, the combination of the K70 and Sigma 18-35/f1.8 is the best of both worlds. The K70 has an excellent, matches the K1 with dynamic range - especially at ISO 640 and above. The 18-35 lens has no coma, no vignetting (on the crop sensor), well-controlled distortion and for the MW is really the perfect lens. There really is no full-frame lens to match its performance (unfortunately).
I've been shooting with the Pentax DFA 15-30/f2.8 along with the Zeiss 25mm/f2.8 ZK. The prime is sharper than the zoom. I would like something faster, but then you inherent additional problems. The FA 31/f1.8 Ltd is excellent, but has coma. Other wide-angle lenses are available, but slower in aperture.
We go out with 3 bodies, 6 lenses, 3 tripods, a tracker, 2 chairs - and lots of water. Here is a link to his IG page -
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