[ColinK70]

Hi My name is Colin

I have just joined the forum to hopefully get some friendly advice on some questions I have and just link in with like-minded Pentax users, I'm, from the UK and I know they have their own forum which I will also join but this one seems very comprehensive.

I am currently shooting with a K70 after getting back into photography a bit more seriously, used to use a ME Super back in the day ! fond memories what a fab camera.

Anyway I have a 1.7 50mm prime lens but don't use it as much as I would like outside as manual focusing can be a bit hit and miss. Of course I have used live view and focus peeking with it, but was wondering if anyone had experience of swapping out the focus screen for a split focusing one?

I was also looking at getting a 300mm green star prime but wanted to check out the possibility of the split focus screen before going down that route, I done have the cash to get a DA * autofocus.

looking forward to your replies

thanks
Colin

[C_Jones]

Welcome to Pentax Forums.

[Kerrowdown]

Welcome to the forum from the Highlands of Scotland.

[KoenR]

Welcome to Pentax Forums.

Welcome!

To focus with a non-af lens, set the focus mode to manual focus.
Use the focus ring on the lens to focus, the camera will also confirm focus with the focus indicator in the viewfinder and beeps (if enabled) when focus is reached. For me this is easier than using live view.

Did you already enabled “use aperture ring” in the custom settings menu?
(Page 4).

Rudy

[ramseybuckeye]

Welcome! I have no experience, but I have read that putting in a split prism will mess up the metering.

Focus peaking with magnification is a fantastic way to get precise focus, as long as you're using a tripod. I do feel like the more current DSLRs are much easier to manually focus through the viewfinder, than say they were when I was using a K20D, but still not a split prism.

Some people also do very well with catch in focus, letting the camera decide when the lens is in focus.

[wadge22]

Welcome to the forums!

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I have experience with the aftermarket split prism screen, although mine is on a K1. You do need to get it adjusted correctly when you install it, which probably involves a little trial and error with shims, but once it's adjusted good it's very nice to have. I also highly recommend Eyecup O-ME53; in fact I would say that should be purchased regardless of whether you go with the aftermarket focusing screen.

Still, it's often difficult to nail focus %100 through the viewfinder with wide open fast lenses. It's always some hits but plenty of misses. Frankly I don't think there's any getting around that, and I think I do just about as good with my split prism as if I use focus confirmation or catch in focus (which aren't perfect, either).
Part of it is technique, which I know I still have a long way to go. But I think the other part is just how exacting we are about focus these days with great sensors and "pixel peeping."

I just try and enjoy myself anyways!

As for metering, I don't doubt the screen affects it to some extent, but I haven't seen it as a problem at all. I always have to pay attention on the instant review and histogram to see how my shots are coming out anyhow, and I adjust the +/- a little here or there. I don't think the aftermarket screen affects it by enough to make a major difference in any of that.

[ColinK70]

Hi all

Many thanks for your kind welcome and comments, as you say focus peaking is very good when using a tripod and I do use that method. I think I was just looking at other means of focusing manually hand held, but I do have the focus indicator's enabled. I have read that fitting a split focus screen cam make it harder in low light smaller apertures ? but would be happy to try it regardless, after all its trial end error and a constant learning curve with photography

Rudy

thanks yes I have enabled “use aperture ring selected so all good there.


wadge22

thanks for your advice there, I agree with modern sensors and computer displays we can get obsessed with pixel peeping and forget to just focus on the content sometimes. I will check out the Eyecup as I never thought about that side of things. As you say technique is important but can be very hit and miss, I always move in and out when doing macro work rather than trying to use the focus ring - all good fun!


Thanks again everyone

Colin

South Wales, UK

[UncleVanya]

Manual focus with wide aperture lenses can be challenging. The split prism metering issues are variable and hard to quantify. Different screens behave differently. Additionally, skimming the screen is often needed for precise focusing alignment. Autofocus isn’t impacted by this.

My suggestions:
1) Keep trying.
2) Consider an EE-S canon style Matte focus screen rather than split prism. The center won’t darken, spot metering will continue to function, and overall experience may be better.
3) calibrate the focus screen. This requires time and effort and either a set of shims or modifying or making shims.
4) consider adding the o-me53 magnifying eyepiece to improve the detail you can see while focusing.
5) buy some inexpensive autofocus lenses. DA 50/1.8, DA 35/2.4, DA 55-300

The DA 55-300/4-5.6 is a little slow and clunky to focus but is quite cheap compared to the newer PLM version. But generally speaking the optics are similar.

[ColinK70]

Hi UncleVanya

Thanks for the advice, there is some good food for thought there, I will defiantly give the o-me53 a go I think. I have some autofocus lenses DA35mm, DA 16-45mm so ok there. The 16-45 was an eBay barging and has surprised me so far on how sharp it is, but if there is anything I can to to get more use out of my 1.7 50mm prime all the better.

I would like to get a decent longer lens as there are a few wetland areas near me and I have read good things about the green star 200 and 300mm, but the focusing side of things is making me look at what options I have to aid this manually before spending any money. No way I can afford an autofocus big lens, I will take another look at the DA 55-300/4-5.6 though.

thanks again
Colin

[wadge22]

Just a comment on costs of the various 300 f4(ish) lenses: make sure and price shop before writing off the Da*, Fa*, and F* lenses in favor of the M* or A* ones. Don't compare the new price of one to the used price of the other.
The manual focus ones seem to be only a few hundred bucks less (sorry, I'm used to thinking in USD; the point probably still applies over there) than a good deal on secondhand autofocus ones (these days I tend to see avg. of ~$500 for A*, vs as low as $650 for DA*).
I'm not saying a few hundred shouldn't matter, but it's definitely a lens that's worth saving up and being patient for. The DA* offers weather sealing and quick shift, which in my mind is worth the extra money.

Also be sure and include Sigma 100-300 f4 in your search. It's reportedly a fantastic lens, and I've seen a few go for under US$600 just recently, as well. They're fairly rare, however.

Finally, yes, do check out the 55-300 PLM. Not nearly as fast (except to focus!), and maybe not quite the same IQ, but everyone raves about that lens and the wildlife images people post from it are definitely impressive. It would also fill in much more useful range than just a 300 would for you, and compliment your current lenses very nicely.

[ColinK70]

Just a comment on costs of the various 300 f4(ish) lenses: make sure and price shop before writing off the Da*, Fa*, and F* lenses in favor of the M* or A* ones. Don't compare the new price of one to the used price of the other.
The manual focus ones seem to be only a few hundred bucks less (sorry, I'm used to thinking in USD; the point probably still applies over there) than a good deal on secondhand autofocus ones (these days I tend to see avg. of ~$500 for A*, vs as low as $650 for DA*).
I'm not saying a few hundred shouldn't matter, but it's definitely a lens that's worth saving up and being patient for. The DA* offers weather sealing and quick shift, which in my mind is worth the extra money.

Also be sure and include Sigma 100-300 f4 in your search. It's reportedly a fantastic lens, and I've seen a few go for under US$600 just recently, as well. They're fairly rare, however.

Finally, yes, do check out the 55-300 PLM. Not nearly as fast (except to focus!), and maybe not quite the same IQ, but everyone raves about that lens and the wildlife images people post from it are definitely impressive. It would also fill in much more useful range than just a 300 would for you, and compliment your current lenses very nicely.

Thanks wadge22

ill take a look at all the options including the PLM

Colin