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05-07-2010, 09:56 PM   #1
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Correcting blue cast in Lightroom for Minolta Elite 5400?

I just bought a Minolta Elite 5400 film scanner, and just scanned my first negatives using Vuescan Demo (hence the dollar signs).

Scanning the Konica VX100 SUPER negative using Vuescan with autofocus yielded a seemingly sharp image. However, a very heavy blue cast appears in the photo.

I selected the film type in the 'Colour' section in Vuescan, but the colour is still very blue to me. See below:


Above: the heavy blue cast in the original scanned image


Above: 'Auto' WB applied in LR. Blue cast still exists

I'm also a novice LR user. I'm wondering how to go about further correcting this, either in LR or in Vuescan. Your tips would be much appreciated.

Also, using the 'Grain Dissolver' option seems to yield tiny blue specks. Has anyone has experience using this? Is this necessary given there is ICE (IR channels) on this unit? In the meantime I'll turn this off. It seems to add to scan time significantly as well.

It's all quite a steep learning curve....

Thanks for your help!

05-07-2010, 10:15 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by iht Quote
I just bought a Minolta Elite 5400 film scanner, and just scanned my first negatives using Vuescan Demo (hence the dollar signs).

Scanning the Konica VX100 SUPER negative using Vuescan with autofocus yielded a seemingly sharp image. However, a very heavy blue cast appears in the photo.

I selected the film type in the 'Colour' section in Vuescan, but the colour is still very blue to me. See below:


Above: the heavy blue cast in the original scanned image


Above: 'Auto' WB applied in LR. Blue cast still exists

I'm also a novice LR user. I'm wondering how to go about further correcting this, either in LR or in Vuescan. Your tips would be much appreciated.

Also, using the 'Grain Dissolver' option seems to yield tiny blue specks. Has anyone has experience using this? Is this necessary given there is ICE (IR channels) on this unit? In the meantime I'll turn this off. It seems to add to scan time significantly as well.

It's all quite a steep learning curve....

Thanks for your help!
In LR, select the image in library mode, then press [W] to switch to the develop module and bring up the white balance eye-dropper. My first try would be to click on the magazine. I did that, and clicked on the magazine, and it went magenta. I found I got this result by clicking just above and to the right of the third $ from the left in line with the right boot. It's too yellow, but you get the idea, I'm sure.
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Last edited by Canada_Rockies; 05-07-2010 at 10:22 PM.
05-08-2010, 12:07 AM   #3
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I once owned an Elite 5400 and sold it after I got my K7. I mostly used it for B&W negatives but I did use it for some slide and C41 film. I did use VueScan, and while it was a powerful program, it was a very, very involved process for getting things at optimum quality.

If I remember correctly the Grain Dissolver feature put a translucent material between the scanner lamp and the negative in order to diffuse the light, similar to a Diffusion Enlarger in the dark room. This cut in light accounts for the longer scan time, and I personally think it was worth the results. I had the original Elite Scan which used fluorescent light instead of LED light like the Elite II, which scanned much faster, even with the Grain Dissolver feature enabled. The Grain Dissolver feature can slightly reduce the appearance of scratches, but it won't remove them completely. I would I don't recall what the setting was called, but I believe there were three IR channel (ICE) cleaning settings. I typically used the lightest setting.

I can't explain the blue specks that you're seeing. Are they regular spaced or random? Do they look like holes or more like dust particle shapes? It may be that the red or blue channels are producing some noise because of the extended exposure time, but I doubt that's the case. Also, did you try reproducing the effect with different film?

Have you considered trying Silverfast as an alternative software? I've used it with an Epson V700 scanner and it yielded quite impressive results. I believe it's built-in film profiles are more accurate than the confusing batch that come with VueScan.

Canada Rockies' method seems to be the way to go with correcting your white balance issue, although I think with the right scanning software you could get an even better starting image. I would also recommend scanning in 48bit RGB mode so that you can give LR as much information as possible.
05-08-2010, 08:37 AM   #4
iht
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Thanks guys for your quick reply.

QuoteQuote:
I found I got this result by clicking just above and to the right of the third $ from the left in line with the right boot. It's too yellow, but you get the idea, I'm sure.
Thank you for that. Yep, I got the idea. It still intrigues me as to how the WB can be so off. It required a HUGE adjustment.

QuoteQuote:
I can't explain the blue specks that you're seeing. Are they regular spaced or random? Do they look like holes or more like dust particle shapes? It may be that the red or blue channels are producing some noise because of the extended exposure time, but I doubt that's the case. Also, did you try reproducing the effect with different film?
The blue speckles are all over the road portion of the pic, and on the shoes and trousers. No blue spots were found in the plants. Here are the screenshots:


Above: Grain dissolver OFF


Above: Grain dissolver ON (blue speckles)


Above: Original photo with Grain dissolver ON


Above: Road with blue speckles (Grain Dissolver ON)

QuoteQuote:
Have you considered trying Silverfast as an alternative software? I've used it with an Epson V700 scanner and it yielded quite impressive results. I believe it's built-in film profiles are more accurate than the confusing batch that come with VueScan.
I had considered Silverfast, but can't justify the cost. I suppose I could try the demo version anyhow. I only got the scanner for a few days. I'm just testing the scanner with my "disposable" negatives first, like this one, which obviously doesn't have the greatest composition (I accidentally pressed the shutter when the camera was pointing down)!

I have read elsewhere that scanning in positive, then converting it back to negative in Photoshop (or LR?) may be preferable. I guess I've got to try it first. Any thoughts on this?


Last edited by iht; 05-08-2010 at 09:10 AM.
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