[grey goat]

I admit: I don't have a colorimeter.

But I want one.

For years, I've relied on the built-in calibration app in Mac OSX. But I've had a K-7 and an Epson 2880 for nearly a year, and I'm shooting in RAW, and . . . well, I realize I need to buy something I can use to get better, more consistent results.

I've been looking at different Spyder and X-Rite units, mostly in the sub-$200 range. (I especially like the price of the Spyder Express, which I've read is easy to use.)

What do you use? Is there a good reason to buy something beyond the Spyder Express? Are some units and software better with Macs (particularly a Power Mac G5 running Leopard OSX 10.5.8)?

Thanks in advance,

Nath

[amoringello]

Do you use more than one monitor? Not many colorimeters support more than one monitor. xRite (GretgMcBeth) eyeOne2 supports multiple monitors and allows installation and use on multiple machines. (justifies the cost if needed).
One of the best consumer grade colorimeters out there from what I hear. (I use it and it does a good job). I just keep hearing from people that have used other brands that they go back to, or switch to the eyeOne.
The software requires use of RosettaStone on Mac, so although it runs on SnowLeopard it should also run on older OSes as well.



ColorMonkey is also good. I've heard conflicting details on whether it is as good as eyeOne. BUT it include ability to profile your printer. So that might be a big plus if you plan to do your own prints.


Regardless, any choice has to be better than eye-balling it via any software "calibration" you've done in the past.

[grey goat]

Do you use more than one monitor? Not many colorimeters support more than one monitor. xRite (GretgMcBeth) eyeOne2 supports multiple monitors and allows installation and use on multiple machines. (justifies the cost if needed).
One of the best consumer grade colorimeters out there from what I hear. (I use it and it does a good job).

[. . .]

ColorMonkey is also good. I've heard conflicting details on whether it is as good as eyeOne. BUT it include ability to profile your printer. So that might be a big plus if you plan to do your own prints.

Regardless, any choice has to be better than eye-balling it via any software "calibration" you've done in the past.

Thanks, amoringello.

Right now I have just one monitor, a nearly seven-year-old Apple. One day I'll need a new one, I know. But I'm pretty sure I'll be using just one monitor at a time.

Good to know that ColorMunki can profile printers, too.

And, yes, any of these choices would be better than relying on the simple "calibration" I've been using the last few years!

[Sparkle]

Spyder has a great reputation here in Canada. It has various models. One will accommodate multiple Monitors. In all the calibration is done through the computer. The printer will produce what you see. I use the Spyder3 pro. I use one 11 X 18 monitor. Works easily and great. Cost here with 15% tax is about $260.00. Good luck. Go to a store you feel comfortable in and where you can receive good advice from an experienced photographer who works there and uses such things. Season's Greetings.

[grey goat]

I use the Spyder3 pro. [. . .] Works easily and great.

Thanks, Sparkle. That's one of the units I've been considering.

Sure will be nice to have as much confidence in my digital output as I had with what I produced in my black-and-white darkroom!

[PePe]

Bought a Spyder 3 Pro a couple of months ago. Works very well, and I am really pleased with the results. Very easy to use, you just start the calibration process, sit down and watch the computer show a set of predefined colours to the colorimeter.
You can use it on as many displays/computers as you wish, as long as you use the same colorimeter, i.e. your licence is linked to the device, not your computer.
I probably should have bought this a lot earlier...

[Wheatfield]

+1 for Eye1Pro.

[grey goat]

Thanks, PePe & Wheat.

I'm trying to read more about the Eye1 and Spyder units; I expect either would do a fine job for me.

Yesterday I re-calibrated the Mac's monitor using the Mac calibration utility. (I don't think Windows has anything like that, does it?) I also made a couple changes in the print settings in Photoshop. The results on two different papers (Epson premium presentation Matte and Epson Velvet Art paper) were really, really good.

Still, I know that either a Spyder or the Eye1 could do an even more accurate job. It will be fun to see and report the improvement when I finally pick up a colorimeter.

Thanks again for the various suggestions!

[Wheatfield]

Thanks, PePe & Wheat.

I'm trying to read more about the Eye1 and Spyder units; I expect either would do a fine job for me.

Yesterday I re-calibrated the Mac's monitor using the Mac calibration utility. (I don't think Windows has anything like that, does it?) I also made a couple changes in the print settings in Photoshop. The results on two different papers (Epson premium presentation Matte and Epson Velvet Art paper) were really, really good.

Still, I know that either a Spyder or the Eye1 could do an even more accurate job. It will be fun to see and report the improvement when I finally pick up a colorimeter.

Thanks again for the various suggestions!

Win7 has a visual calibration routine built in, Vista might, versions prior to that didn't. Not surprising, XP was the version prior and it would be 6 years old now.
I had a Spyder, but found it wasn't much good on LCD screens. I'm sure more recent ones are better.
The Eye1 is made by X-Rite, which is one of the older companies in the photography business regarding calibration technology. I used X-Rite densitometers back in the 1970s for printer/process control, so when I went looking for a new calibrator when I went to LCDs, X-Rite was a no brainer for me. I know they know what they are doing.

[Sparkle]

Sometimes the differences are very subtle. Sometimes it is a perfectionist thing. You never know till you try it. The process takes less than ten minutes. Spyder has a button you can click to repeatedly compare the effects of about a dozen built in photographs, with and without calibration. You must do the calibration at night in a room which is devoid of ambient light. The unit later makes adjustment for ambient light in daylight or with lights on.

[slip]

Do you want just your monitor calibrated for printing other then your own printer?
If yes I have an older eye-one and would recommend getting one from fleebay.
If you want to have your printer calibrated to match your monitor, then you would need a solution like this X-Rite: Get exactly the color you need, every time, anywhere in the world.

good luck

randy

[grey goat]

Wow, slipchuck! That range of products looks really cool and capable. And priced so that my wife would be very capable of tossing me into a very cool snow bank if I were to buy even the Basic Pro! It would be great to calibrate everything, but I think I'll have to settle for the monitor for now. And with the various paper profiles, the Epson does a pretty sweet job.

Wheatfield, the older Spyders, from what I read, were useless with LCDs, but the new ones are supposed to be really good. Of course, so are the Eye1s. Decisions, decisions. . . .

Sparkle, thanks for the tip to calibrate at night. I'd probably have read that in the directions, but it's good to remember.

Thanks again for all the tips. These add to the other tips I've picked up from other threads, and they all help.

Nath

[slip]

The "Huey" pro is around 99 dollars and is a great alternative for most peoples needs

X-Rite: Get exactly the color you need, every time, anywhere in the world.

[Wheatfield]

Sparkle, thanks for the tip to calibrate at night. I'd probably have read that in the directions, but it's good to remember.

With the Eye1Pro, you take a reading of the ambient light intensity which the software uses to help set the screen.
It works quite well.

[slip]

With the Eye1Pro, you take a reading of the ambient light intensity which the software uses to help set the screen.
It works quite well.

that is a great option. the thing they do want you to remember that the light in the room stay constant and on the dim side (which includes no direct sun on the monitor)

great advise

randy