[RioRico]

Don't know if this applies to you, but here goes: I've been shooting digital stills for over a decade now with various cameras (Minolta, Olympus, Pentax, Sony) and ALL of them have lousy AWB. My editor of choice (I haven't bothered to grab something new lately) is PaintShopPro which has a REMOVE COLOR CAST option. I run nearly ALL non-RAW images through that. Quick and easy and butt-saving.

[reeftool]

I do stuff like this a lot. Another reason I now shoot RAW all the time.I've been able to fix most of my screw ups in PP and when all else fails there is always the B&W conversion option.

[MSL]

I do stuff like this a lot. Another reason I now shoot RAW all the time.I've been able to fix most of my screw ups in PP and when all else fails there is always the B&W conversion option.

I have no doubts of the superiority of RAW and at some stage I'll test the burst mode capabilities shooting RAW with the card that I have. But the combination of wanting to catch "just that moment" with my kids (hence the desire to shoot bursts) with the lack of time to do much PP means I'll probably shoot JPG much of the time.

[Marc Sabatella]

The JPG of Tungsten WB in daylight did not look as blue as I expected -
I am more used to the pic looking as if shot through a strong blue filter.

That's what I was thinking, too. I think the second set looks more like what I was expecting.

[UnknownVT]

Just of of interest I thought I'd try to correct the very blue K100D image
(Tungsten balance taken outdoors in daylight)


Using the resized JPG and just consumer grade editors:

Very old version of Ulead PhotoImpact 8 (my normal editor - free with UK computer mag)
Format>Tone Map>White Point dropper:

for consistency and direct comparison the white point was selected around the middle of the lower white border of the Macbeth. The result is a bit too bright - but a pretty good correction - at least on the chart.

PS Elements 7 - Auto Color Correction

it's still a bit dark (easily adjusted) - but again pretty "acceptable"

PS Elements 7 - Remove Color Cast

used middle of lower border for the "neutral" point - again a bit dark (easily adjusted) -
again more than acceptable.

ACR (Adobe Camera RAW called from Elements 7, use open as Camera RAW - then select and open the resized JPG)
> color temp slider (by eye):

a bit quick and dirty - perhaps still a bit blue with finer tuning using adjust color tint?

ACR > White Balance Tool:

click on middle of lower border.

Just to be fair(er) to Pentax DCU - I did not like the resized JPG correction using grey-point selection (on the middle of the lower border) so I retried the grey-point selection on the same resized JPG -
this time I chose near the right upper edge of the border which has a slight crease toward the sun - and this was the result:

a bit dark (easily adjusted) this looks better than the first one I did - it seems less green.

In this one instance of a very blue photo from the K100D using Tungsten WB outdoors in daylight seems to be able to be corrected using even pretty simple consumer editors on the JPG.

[UnknownVT]

The JPG of Tungsten WB in daylight did not look as blue as I expected -
I am more used to the pic looking as if shot through a strong blue filter..

That's what I was thinking, too. I think the second set looks more like what I was expecting.

To pursue this a bit further -
I was wondering whether my settings on the K-x may have had something to do with this.
setting Highlight correction ON, and Shadow Correction on Low -
a few comparisons:

K100D shot -
JPG Tungsten WB - Original resize only:


K-x shot with Highlight Correction ON and Shadow Correction on Low:

Typo on notation the filenames on the images are wrong (forgot to edit when doing copy/paste) -
just ignore them -
my actual image filenames are correct and they all have EXIF attached so you can check
this K-x JPG does seem a bit less blue than the K100D JPG

K-x JPG - Highlight and Shadow Corrections OFF:

this JPG is a bit bluer - but still not as blue as the K100D JPG.

A few simple corrections to get back to the daylight balance:
First actual JPG shot with Daylight WB:
HL ON, Shdw on Low:


HL & Shdw ON JPG corrections:
Ulead PhotoImpact 8 - white point on lower left corner white pane


PDCU on resized JPG - grey-point on lower left white pane:


PDCU on resized JPG - override to Daylight WB:


HL and Shdw OFF - Daylight WB JPG


Simple PhotoImpact 8 on JPG white point on lower left white pane:

Typo on notation that should be IMGP6311.JPG
(this mistake is also on all the following shots - forgot to edit the copy/paste properly)

PDCU on resized JPG - grey-pont on lower left white pane:


PDCU on resized JPG - override to Daylight WB:

[Marc Sabatella]

Those do look pretty good for JPEG, although there is still some pretty obvious color artifacting (banding, residual casts, etc) from the reduced bit depth of the color information available.