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03-02-2012, 10:00 AM   #1
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How to get blue sky with Photoshop?

Hi,
this is maybe an easy question. I always get quite "white" skyes and I wonder what is the easiest way to make it more blue in Photeshop.
I used to select the sky with the magic wand, and then replace the color but looks terrible and clearly fake.
I don't think there is any Out of the box filter in PS right? (5.5)
Any other trick?
I also have lightroom 3 if this helps. I have seen you can put a kind of "drop down" filter on the photo and alter saturation, but when the starting point is a white sky nothing really change.... I really need to change the original color in a better but natural one, not something I can manually create with the palette of colors.
Thanks for suggestions
Riccardo

03-02-2012, 10:31 AM   #2
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The problem is the huge dynamic range between the bright sky and the darkest areas in the image. You have some extra headroom for recovering blown highlights if you shoot raw, but there are limits to what you can still do in post-processing once the damage is done. Try underexposing by one stop, or better yet, exposure bracketing. A polarizer will help somewhat, but if the horizon is reasonably straight, the tool of choice is a graduated neutral density filter.
03-02-2012, 10:39 AM   #3
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If there is no data there at all (i.e. the sky is 100% overexposed), what you do is you use the magic wand to select the entire sky, and then refine the edge (click on the "Refine Edge" button at the top) to make it smoother. Finally, take the gradient tool, pick a light grey and a light blue color, and apply the gradient to the sky

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03-02-2012, 10:39 AM   #4
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Ikarus is right. Take two pictures. One exposed for the scene, and another with the sky properly exposed. Put each on a separate layer (with the blown out sky on the top layer). Either create a mask and erase the blown sky, or just select it with the wand and delete it.

03-02-2012, 10:47 AM   #5
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Try stopping down to f/13 - f/16 or so to try to get more blue sky out-of-camera. Not always possible depending on the scene, but just as a rule of thumb that usually works for me.
03-02-2012, 11:04 AM   #6
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Ok, good suggestions.
Another idea... I never used HRD (or whatever), would this be usefull? I mean, is that the quivalent of the suggestion from Parallax (take 2 or more pictures and overalp them) or a different thing?
thx
03-02-2012, 02:37 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by quintinir Quote
Ok, good suggestions.
Another idea... I never used HRD (or whatever), would this be usefull? I mean, is that the quivalent of the suggestion from Parallax (take 2 or more pictures and overalp them) or a different thing?
thx
"HDR" is the software end of what Parallax suggested. You'll need to take the photos quickly, one after each other without zooming or changing the direction you're pointing the camera, so choose Auto Exposure Bracketing and keep clicking. I personally suggest Photomatix Essentials as a way to start off with HDR. It even reads Pentax RAW files!

03-02-2012, 02:48 PM   #8
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When are you shooting, and what are you shooting (post a sample picture please) that you cannot get blue skies on? If post processing is not helping, then perhaps the process to get the picture can be changed for a better result.
03-02-2012, 04:08 PM   #9
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Definitely bracket or shoot an HDR snap (available in your modern Pentax DSLR's menu) if you want a properly-exposed sky the first time around, though sometimes a PP technique like I described does become necessary if you don't have other versions of the same shot
03-03-2012, 06:50 AM   #10
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1 sample picture for JinDesu... (I can upload only 1000x700 pictures sorry, not sure what you will see).
shoted at around 11am, 2 days ago, with K5 and tamron 17-50. The sun is high on the left side, absolutely outside of the picture. 17mm, f11, 1/125, ISO200, RAW (this posted is jpeg converted as is from PS, reduced image size). Of course if I increase vibration a lot improves a little bit on the left but not on the right. It was very warm with a lot of humidity in the air and pollution. Turning 180 degree the sky was perfectly blue anyway in this direction I could not take one single good shot.
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03-03-2012, 07:03 AM   #11
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There's quite some interesting graduate filter effects in NIK Software Color Efex, like this, now this was a fast edit, one minute here just to show the concept, more perfect results can be achieved when putting more detail into the edit of course.

03-03-2012, 07:15 AM   #12
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Well, yes, with 200 euro I bet I can... I was hoping that CS5 which already cost A LOT, could have a filter for such a common thing like getting a blue sky :-)
That was my question basically, just in case I missed some new functionality of PS. But from what I read here either I do more photos and then compose or I use magic wand and change color (or I buy a filter).
Thanks anyway for the suggestion (any free filter around?)
03-03-2012, 07:52 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by quintinir Quote
Well, yes, with 200 euro I bet I can... I was hoping that CS5 which already cost A LOT, could have a filter for such a common thing like getting a blue sky :-)
That was my question basically, just in case I missed some new functionality of PS. But from what I read here either I do more photos and then compose or I use magic wand and change color (or I buy a filter).
Thanks anyway for the suggestion (any free filter around?)
You can emulate the same thing using the gradient tool in PS and do a layer over your image....
03-03-2012, 08:14 AM   #14
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Here we are... this was the trick I never used before (Adam suggested as well to be honest... but hadn't time to test until now).
Thx a lot guys!
03-03-2012, 08:36 AM   #15
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You can also use a polarizer (CPL filter) to put on your lens, this makes the sky appear darker, deeper, and bluer. It also removes reflections from non-metallic objects.
Another thing you could use is a graduated ND filter. Some software, like lightroom, allows you to edit your raw images to bring back or darken an overexposed sky, but this has its limitations. I would suggest getting a circular polarizer first, though, and hopefully not the very cheapest kind.
Yes, you can also do HDR, in-camera or using computer software, but for this you will probably need a tripod or a very steady hand. HDR can also appear weird if overdone, it is best when the viewer doesn't even notice it is HDR.
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