[reivax]

Hello,

I hope I posted this in the right section.

I think I've finally taken enough "keepers" to where I'd like to start printing some of the photos I've taken. One of the things I noticed, as I was cropping for 8x10, is that I end up cutting out way more than I'm comfortable cropping. It almost feels like I'm cutting out part of what the makes the picture "cool" or "nice" or whatever the adjective would be depending on the picture.

Should I be taking what I might crop out into consideration when I'm taking the picture? How do some of you deal with this? Should I be trying to print a size different than 8x10? I've noticed that when I do 5x7, that's pretty close to the original, but 5x7 seems to small for some of the things I'd like to print. I'd like to print something around the size of 8x10 without having to crop too much out.

Here is an example of what I mean:

Original:


8x10:


Maybe not the best example, I kind of like the way both look, but I think you guys will understand what I mean.

I think the biggest thing I'd like to get answered is: What is the recommended print size be for aps-c?

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Last edited by reivax; 03-31-2012 at 04:54 PM. Reason: Replaced a " with a :

[reivax]

I forgot to mention that I don't do my own printing, I would have to get them printed somewhere. I don't know if this would limit my options.

[RioRico]

Adjusting aspect ratios is always tricky. The options are:

1) crop the image, and yeah, lose something;
2) distort the image, and this won't always work;
3) get frames/mattes of the right aspect; or
4) cheat.

How to cheat? I'll get to that. Our dSLRs shoot with a 3:2 (1.5) aspect -- but not exactly. My K20D produces 4672x3104 images with 1.505 aspect, not perfect enough for a tight 3:2 frame|matte. In USA, common framing sizes are 7:5 (1.4) and 5:4 (1.25). The latter, including commonest 8x10in, is nowhere near 1.5 and so requires LOTS of crop or distortion. One reason for the pro popularity of 6x7 MF cameras like the Pentax 67 is that the 7:6 (1.1666) aspect is pretty close to 1.5 and can be readily fudged. But going from 1.5 to 1.25 takes some doing.

One trick: For an 8x10in frame, print at 9x6in and have an 8x10in matte cut with a 6x9in hole. The matte can be the same color as the frame to blend in, or a contrasting color to stand out.

Cheap trick (cheating). For an 8x10in frame, print (on an 8x10in paper or canvas) the image at 9x6in, but with a borderline midway between the image's outer edge and the frame's inner edge.

Preventative trick: Plan on the print when you shoot. Compose for the frame's aspect, not the camera's. Best is to NOT shoot for a tight crop in-camera. Leave some dead space for cropping.

That last requires a mindset change. You're not shooting immutable Kodachrome. The image you produce needn't be exactly what the camera captures. Getting the image into and out of the camera isn't enough -- PP is an integral part of the picture-making process. Getting a perfect composition in-camera is Very Nice, but as your question shows, the produced image is often Something Else. Teach yourself to 'see' your intended print, not just what appears in your viewfinder.

[reivax]

As you suggested, the best I could think of was to cheat by adding a border. That will probably be what I will end up doing.

I think I will have to start changing my mindset and begin to "see my intended print". That will be hard to do. Right now I'm still figuring out what I intend to shoot, let alone what I intend to print. Thanks for the advice. I will definitely be trying out different things.

[mccook]

That is a very clever and effective trick suggested by RioRico. Especially when trying to mind a budget, you have to get creative.

However, prints at native aspect ratio are not impossible by any means. Whereas you're not doing your own printing, Mpix for example, offers many compatible print sizes:

Pricing : Mpix.Com

Framing those native aspect ratio prints is a bit more complicated. I make my own frames and mats, but I must admit that it is a definite PITA, and certainly not for everyone. Pre-made frames and mats in less common aspect ratios are out there, but you certainly have to search a bit to find them, and they make the print the cheapest part of the equation by far. Of course, if you go with "wraps", or any of the various "metal prints", framing becomes unnecessary. For what it's worth, I've been selling far more wraps and metal prints lately, they clearly are popular. Good luck in your search.

[reivax]

Framing those native aspect ratio prints is a bit more complicated. I make my own frames and mats, but I must admit that it is a definite PITA, and certainly not for everyone. Pre-made frames and mats in less common aspect ratios are out there, but you certainly have to search a bit to find them, and they make the print the cheapest part of the equation by far. Of course, if you go with "wraps", or any of the various "metal prints", framing becomes unnecessary. For what it's worth, I've been selling far more wraps and metal prints lately, they clearly are popular. Good luck in your search.

Wraps? Metal Prints? I'm a little embarrassed to admit that I have no idea what those are.

[reivax]

Wraps? Metal Prints? I'm a little embarrassed to admit that I have no idea what those are.

As soon as I replied to your message, I clicked on the link you provided and the answer was provided. Thanks.

The wraps look neat, but kind of expensive. I've never seen the metal sheet prints in person before. How's the quality?

[anthers]

Print 8x12 into a 12x16 frame with a 2" mat. I've done this tons of times. Or a 12x16 into a 16x20 or 18x24 frame. It does require that you get a mat though.

[reivax]

Print 8x12 into a 12x16 frame with a 2" mat. I've done this tons of times. Or a 12x16 into a 16x20 or 18x24 frame. It does require that you get a mat though.

I've never used Mpix.com and I know that there is a highly debated answer to this question, but are they any good? I'm sure they would not have been recommended if they weren't, but are they going to be my best overall option?

[anthers]

I'm not sure if they are the best but I've used them almost exclusively for probably 50 some odd pictures of all sizes over the last 10 years. They offer a great selection of papers and sizes at decent prices. They ship in rugged packaging.

For any online printer i would run some small proof prints to check color and contrast / brightness before spending a lot on an enlargement. Mix has the option of letting them color correct and auto-levels, or you can do it yourself and they will print the straight file.

[mccook]

I'm sure we could start a raging debate about Mpix, but I have done a substantial of work with them without a single hitch. Therefore, I'm going with "if it isn't broken....". You may have to go the route a lot of us have of ordering from many different people to form your own conclusion, I am just relating my personal experience FWIW.

The wraps are in fact pricey, but bear in mind that you are looking at a finished product price. The print itself is a minor factor in the cost of the finished product when matting and framing is involved. I personally like them, and they have been great for selling at art/craft fairs as they sell well and are a ton less work for me.

[slip]

What I do is make a 8x10 (or whatever size you choose) in Photoshop and fill it with the color you want. Then I drag the full photo over on top the 8x10 and, with the shift button down drag the handle of the layer you just brought over until it is the size you want. I then double click that layer in the layers panel.. an option box will appear. This is called styles.
I then put an outside glow 1 or 2 pixels wide in the color of your choice.
Then flatten the layers and you are ready to print. A digital mat is quick and you can choose any color you want, without all the hassle of cutting. You also get to have any size/ aspect ratio you want without having to crop part of photo off.

Hope this helps