[sb in ak]

I'm hoping to get a few tips from people who have gotten successful prints. My last few batches at Mpix have been underwhelming (either washed-out b&ws or colors that just don't "sing."

I understand a computer screen displays a wider range of color, but I think I'm making a mistake somewhere.

I have a hardware calibrator for my ASUS monitor (not a great monitor, but it works--or maybe it doesn't?) and I've watched some how-tos online that describe the soft-proofing process. In Photoshop, using the E-Surface profile and "relative colormetric," I then apply levels, etc. to try to get the print like it looks like on the screen before showing proof colors. I then apply some final sharpening and export to JPG and onto MPIX. I think at first my monitor brightness was up to high, so I've since turned that to about 75-80%.

So a few questions.

1. Do you use "simulate paper color" in the proof color setup, or leave it blank? There is quite a difference on the screen if this is turned on.

2. Do you try to softproof or just have MPIX (or whatever company) color correct? Ultimately, I'd like to get consistent results, (and my own printer) so it seems like the soft proofing process is something I should learn.

3. Should I be downscaling my images if I make a smaller print (say, 8x10) or should I just send on the high quality, full res jpg? (They only accept JPG).

Thanks for any input. For the first time, I have some friends asking for prints, which means I must be doing something right with the camera and processing. I just need to figure out how to get decent prints that look something like the images...

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Last edited by sb in ak; 07-01-2012 at 06:59 PM.

[robgo2]

The purpose of soft proofing is to achieve the closest approximation possible between the print and what you see on your monitor. Two things are essential for this to happen. First, you must have a properly calibrated monitor, and that includes the brightness level. (Most LCD monitors are factory set at levels that are far too bright for photographic purposes.) Secondly, you must have a profile for the paper/printer combination that you are using. In Photoshop, this is accessed via the View/Proof Setup/Custom menu. If Mpix does not provide a specific profile for their printer and paper, then you will not be able to perform proper soft proofing. If they do, download the profile and install it in the proper place on your computer, so that PS can find it. (It is different for Mac and Windows systems.) Somehow, I don't think that "E surface" will be good enough. Also, try Perceptual intent, not just Relative Colometric. Some photos look better with the former rendering intent.

I hope that this helps. One final word. If you really love photography, get your own printer, and gain control over the entire process. It is tremendously satisfying to see a fine print emerge from one's own printer, and it isn't as hard to accomplish as it might seem.

Rob

[maxfield_photo]

Here's a quick and dirty way to check your monitor's brightness.

1) Get a gray card if you don't already have one, they're cheap.
2) In the same room where you have your monitor set up, create a custom white balance in the camera using the gray card. I usually have to over expose it a stop or two before my K20D will accept it as a white balance target. Now set your EV comp to 0 if it's not already there.
3) Fill your viewfinder with the gray card and take a shot. You may have to get closer than your lens can focus to do this, but that's ok as long as you're not casting a shadow on the card itself. Now look at your histogram on your LCD, it should show one large spike right in the middle. If it's off to one side or the other try hitting the green button and repeat the exposure.
4) Bring the photo into your editing software of choice but do not make any adjustments to it. The histogram should still show a spike right in the middle.
5) Now hold your gray card next to the monitor. If your monitor is set to the correct luminance value the image on the screen should match the gray card. If not, adjust the brightness up, or (more likely) down.

You also need to make sure you're converting your photos to sRGB and stripping any ICC profiles before you send them off to Mpix. Let us know how it goes.

[sb in ak]

Thanks for the help. I think I got the E Surface profile came from Mpix. Rob, I think you're spot on with the photo printer. I'd love to get one.


maxfield, I'm definitely going to get a grey card and check the brightness that way. Thanks!!

[robgo2]

Thanks for the help. I think I got the E Surface profile came from Mpix. Rob, I think you're spot on with the photo printer. I'd love to get one.


maxfield, I'm definitely going to get a grey card and check the brightness that way. Thanks!!

I checked the Mpix site, and they do have an E surface profile.

Regarding the soft proofing process, I have found that simulating the paper color is very unsatisfactory, as the color applied by PS is not even close to the color of the paper that I use, and it reduces contrast dramatically. I do not know if this is part of the problem you are having getting satisfactory prints.

You also need to understand that a print will never look exactly like the screen image, but it should be fairly close. If you cannot achieve this with Mpix, then contact their technical support people for help in resolving the matter. If they cannot help, then I would suggest forging ahead with acquiring your own printer. You won't regret it. I remember being reluctant to get into printing my own images, but now I love the process, and the print quality from my Epson 3880 is absolutely superb.

Rob

[sb in ak]

My own printer would allow me to run test prints on the fly until I get it "right." Doing that with Mpix chews up a lot of money in shipping.

Thanks, on the next run I'm going to try to try the grey card trick with monitor brightness and leave the "simulate paper color" off.