Originally posted by Skog No, and I think you'd understand that perfectly if you wanted to help me and not make fun of me.
I just want help/input in making a setting in lightroom that looks like the k5's bright setting..
So that when I import my raw files in to lightroom, they look more or less like the k5 "bright" jpg's.
The lighroom default setting is too neutral and dull for my liking. I would rather have them look like the "bright" jpg's to begin with and then adjust from there.
Yes, for some reason some people would rather waste their time and ours with useless comments than to be helpful.
But to his credit on this issue, he is definitely correct that there is no magic set of settings that will do what you want.
You can play with LightRoom/CameraRaw settings to get close... Realize though that those in-camera modes such as "Bright" affect JPEGs, not RAW files.
JPegs are 8 bit images and K5 RAW, I believe, are 14bit. You are going to have the potential for some color variance as well as potential loss of detail in highlights and shadows. This is going to be darned near impossible to replicate with the RAW files.
So, what to do......
If you look at what the camera does for the Bright mode, it ups the Contrast slightly and adds some Sharpening.
These you can do in Lightroom quite easily and get a fair approximation.
I simply took a photo in RAW+JPG mode with the camera set to Bright and compared the two I'm Lightroom.
- I upped Contrast to 50 and sharpening also to 50.
That was more than expected for one tick-mark on the scroller in the camera's settings, but it brightened up the RAW image to closely match the JPG.
But again due to differences in RAW v.s. JPG you are not always going to get exact matches regardless of the settings you supply.
Hopefully that is a close starting point.
Additionally, you can get something like ColorChecker Passport as mentioned. I have it and it helps a lot in some conditions.
But this is a calibration device and has little to do with the modes such as Bright, Natural, Portrait, etc...
Calibration also works for only One (1) lighting condition. You need to use the color palette and create a custom profile every time you shoot.
Unless you're in a studio with controlled and static lighting setup, it becomes a huge pain in the ass.
You can create some generic calibration profiles and get marginally better results than what is built into Lightroom.
I would not suggest that anyone NOT get one. It is helpful when its needed.
But I also would not suggest that everyone get one.