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10-24-2012, 12:35 AM   #1
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Anyone use Photomatrix for Photo Fusion?

Hi all, does anyone use photomatrix to fusion blend their photos? I am interested in learning more about this newer technique compared to HDR. it seems to not take the high range of light and color but the lower tones and you don't get that blasting over color, halo effect.

Have you used it or used another softward for photo fusion?

Thanks,

Racerdew

11-02-2012, 03:38 AM   #2
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11-02-2012, 11:14 PM   #3
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Sure, I've used it for years with both Photomatix and Photoshop layer masks prior. Exposure blending is not a "newer technique" and has been practiced for at least 20 years I believe. You essentially make multiple stable exposures (often three) of the same scene by metering for for highlights, shadows, and mid-ranges and basically sandwich them together. Some call this exposure bracketing. I prefer this approach to HDR because the final output looks more natural. That said, HDR software has improved significantly during the past three years and it's quite possible to output with a lighter, natural feel that way as well. You can also use Enfuse in Lightroom to create the same.

Worth trying indeed.

M
11-03-2012, 05:12 PM   #4
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Thank you Miguel for your insight!

Racerdew

11-04-2012, 12:08 AM   #5
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Hi Miguel,
I do HDR with Corel Paintshop Pro X4 and some HDR in camera with my K-r and I have learned how to get some good results withouth that over colored look.
I downloaded a free version of phtomatrix, however I don't think I know how to use if for bracketing. I don't get good results. From a forum photography for real estate, many of the photographers shoot brackets to get the lighting balanced for their indoor photography. I still don't get what they are doing. I tried using photomatirx but it turned out bad. Some guys are saying they bracket 9 photos to get their picture? What are they talking about and what are they using? I know the camera can bracket several pictures but it just seems like you are putting the latest exposure over the last one. How does that make a better picture? If you start with a bright exposure it doesn't get any darker as you continue to shoot brackets. I'm pretty confused about bracketing. I do understand and us HDR. If you can explain it without any trouble, that would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Racerdew
11-22-2012, 01:03 PM   #6
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I've had a bit of time using Photomatix Pro 4, some really good results and sometimes not so. I'll try and outline the basic principles for using it as I understand :

Assuming we stick to the idea of using HDR to produce an output image that retains visible detail in both shadows and highlight areas, and the dynamic range of the scene is beyond what the camera can record, then the starting point is to capture a range of shots, each one of which records good detail in a specific tonal range.

Arguably the most important of these shots would be the one at the highest EV setting (to record the shadows), and secondly at the other extreme (lowest EV setting) recording highlights. You can then choose to shoot maybe one or 3 intermediate shots (so either a 3 or 5 shot bracket, and our Pentax DSLRs have this function automatically.

The guide to use here is the histogram on the LCD - make sure that for the highest EV shot the grey brightness data is well away from the left edge of the histogram, and likewise for the lowest EV shot that the grey data is a fair way to the left of the right edge.

The HDR program will effectively 'take the best bits' exposure-wise from each shot and merge them (using the tone-mapping or fusion process) to create an image with an expanded visible tonal range, much more akin to what the eye is able to process and view all at the same time.

Bracketing like this is the key to achieving quality, as opposed to just reprocessing a single shot with blown details at either end, because each individual shot has been exposed optimally for the shadows / mids / highlights.

Obviously the key to successful bracketing for this purpose is to maintain a constant aperture (so using Av mode) and minimising camera movement between shots (tripod is best, or careful handholding in good light with SR). Make sure that the camera menu item is set for 'one push bracketing' and this will fire the shots in a rapid burst.
11-23-2012, 12:36 PM   #7
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Thanks Mcgregni for you valuable information. You explained if very well and I get the clear picture of how you do your bracketing for PP HDR. One point you bring up that I think I have not paid attentiont to is, keeping the same apeture setting. I may have been changing this in the past.
Thanks and enjoy your weekend.
Racerdew

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