[Hattifnatt]

Hello everybody,

So far I've been using only Lightroom to process my photos (I only shoot RAW -> dng). Yesterday I've downloaded trial version of the Nik collection, seems that many forum members are using it with great results. I'm thinking of buying it after trial if I get good results. But I'm pretty much lost in all the modules. I know there are tutorials for each module, but could somebody post a decent workflow of post processing using Nik with LR (or maybe Photoshop, which I also have) ?

One thing I don't quite like is that it seems to me Nik plugins are applied on a TIFF exported from LR. Wouldn't be better to work on the raw file directly? is it possible to do this with either LR or Photoshop?

[Rondec]

I use Nik a lot. Basically, my work flow is to do any global adjustments on file in LR (white balance, straightening/cropping). Then, I use Nik Dfine if the file needs noise reduction (I don't use this very much as I don't shoot high iso a bunch). Then, got to RAW presharpener where I apply about 36 percent sharpening to files of cameras with an AA filter and 24 percent to files of camera without an AA filter. Then, I tend to go to Color Efex or Silver Efex for final adjustments on images. And then I am done. I do not sharpen on export to jpeg.

Color Efex is a pretty powerful program for landscapes, but does take some learning. I usually use some combination of neutral density filter and detail enhancer with it.

Don't hesitate to play around with the programs and see what you get. Just careful not to over do it, as it is pretty easy to get an over do cartoonish result.

[slowpez]

There are a lot of videos on YouTube about using Lightroom and Nik and the type workflow that others use.
I have no idea how to past a link but this is the site I have used:

lightroom and nik software - YouTube

Hope this helps.

[mee]

Keep in mind, LR doesn't actually process the RAW file directly, it processes non-destructively... meaning, your edits aren't to the actual RAW but, instead, are recorded settings of where you have the sliders at any given moment in LR. If you open the RAW directly from your hard drive into an image view (that can load RAW image formats) you will see the image without affects! This is important and useful since if you want to go back at a later time and make changes, you have the original file unaltered and ready to go (and can also make many presets for various 'processing' in LR for different feels on one image)

Ok that out of the way.. my current workflow is as such (for NON HDR images):

Import DNG into LR, check Lens Correction, Defringe, Lower highlights (depending on the image; helps you pull more detail out of bright objects)

then right click on image and select Edit In>Photoshop (Elements here)

On the popup window, I select 'Edit a copy with Lightroom Adjustments' and ensure I have TIFF format and ProPhotoRGB colorspace selected with 16-bit depth and the default 240 resolution.

Off to PSE I then go.. to use the Nik Suite

First up, A RAW PreSharpener to subtly sharpen the image a little (I find a little goes a long way.. you dont want a crispy image)
Next, Viveza to draw up the tonal detail with the 'Structure' slider followed by contrast and brightness sliders.
Thirdly, to Color Efex Pro to correct color mostly and a bit of depth with the 'Dynamic Contrast' as well.
Fourthly, Dfine for a little NR typically using a manual reading
Fifth, to the Output Sharpener for a very subtle resharpening.

Please note, I've seen some workflows where they actually do the Dfine first. I can see the uses for it but don't like working that way. And on some images you might not need any at all of any number of these modules. It really depends on the image to the magnitude I use each module. But this is my general workflow. I use Viveza the most though.

And, of course, If I'm doing a B+W I will throw that module in there too.. usually INSTEAD of the Color Efex Pro and the Viveza modules. Though sometimes I still use Viveza in conjunction. Even though the B+W module has it's own structure algorithm.

The best advice I can give, however, is to be aware that some of the modules in the Nik Suite can introduce some pretty obvious grain/noise so do try to get the cleanest source image in there first (and one reason I like to use dfine near the end of the chain). Also, experiment. I came about my workflow through trial and error until I found something that works for me.

You might end up with a completely different chain though..

Oh, one last thing, after I'm done processing in PSE I hit save and point the Save dialog box to save back in the LR folder right over the 'original' TIFF file. If I need another TIFF I can always generate one off of the RAW so this saves a teency bit of space (since 16-bit TIFF images are massive).

[mee]

hope the above helped..

[Hattifnatt]

Thanks for the replies. It did help. One thing I don't get still... I understand the philosophy of non-destructive editing so that Nik plugins work on a copy... but wouldn't they achieve a better result on the RAW file directly? I can always make a copy of the original before starting to edit it.

[Sandy Hancock]

I'm with Rondec. I am pretty comfortable with LightRoom, and always start there. If I can't get the look I'm after I bung the LR-adjusted image into the Nik suite. I have only just started playing with the sharpening and noise reduction stuff, but Color Efex and Silver Efex can produce some really nice finishing touches.

[Rondec]

Thanks for the replies. It did help. One thing I don't get still... I understand the philosophy of non-destructive editing so that Nik plugins work on a copy... but wouldn't they achieve a better result on the RAW file directly? I can always make a copy of the original before starting to edit it.

Most programs that work on images, other than Lightroom, cannot do so without converting the RAW files to some other file. TIFF seems to contain all of the RAW data, but be usable by programs like Photoshop Elements and Nik Effects.

[Hattifnatt]

I see... I was worried about losing some data when going from RAW to TIFF.

Kinda following Rondec's workflow for a while, seems to work.

[mee]

TIFF does not equal RAW

That is to say, a TIFF is closer to a JPG than a RAW format image. And I'd ensure one's exposure and white balance are fairly close to what they are going for before converting to TIFF as you have less control over it with a TIFF. Also, please be aware you will need to convert to a 16-bit TIFF (versus the standard 8-bit) to maintain full tonal gradation versus a RAW format image... these 16-bit TIFFS are massive in file size compared the same image in RAW. The actual conversion of a RAW into a JPG (or even a TIFF) takes 1 bit of data and converts it into 3 (red, green, and blue)... which is why a 14-bit RAW doesn't take as much file space as even an 8-bit TIFF. It gets a bit more technical than that, but that is as deep as I ever got into understanding.

That said, with a 16-bit TIFF, you have quite a bit of headroom to play with edits and some people even take bracketed exposed shots of a single scene and combine them into a 32-bit TIFF which gives A LOT of depth with which to play and, again, the expense of requiring A LOT of hard drive space.

So, long story short, use RAW when photographing and load those into Lightroom in order to get general exposure and lens corrections, convert to TIFF to use the Nik effects, preferably with a 16-bit TIFF over 8.. especially when making fairly dramatic changes (or moves of the sliders in Nik). Otherwise you risk running into banding and other nasties.