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04-21-2014, 04:28 AM   #1
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Aperture Monitor & Printer Calibration ?

Hi,

I'm using the latest issue of Aperture (with Nik Software's Silver Efex plug in for B & W) on my mid 2007 iMac running OSX Mavericks and trying with considerable difficulty to print with reasonable accuracy to my Canon iP4950 and IX 6550 printers (I'm retired now so the IX 6550 was bought primarily for printing A3 scaled down drawings should I need to after my 16 year old A1 Designjet gave up the ghost).

I have the iMac monitor calibrated as near as my old eyes can see using the Apple calibration tool.

Although I have had Aperture for years I have only recently started using it with intensity.

Both Colour and B & W prints are way off, much lighter and less saturated than what I see on the screen, there's an exhibition coming up at my photo club and I want my prints to look the way I want them and not the way the guy who prints the club photos thinks I want them, they will not be on fine art paper or anything light that, usually just some bulk buy matt luster.

I realise that I need to calibrate the screen to the printers or vice versa, I see there are several gadgets that will calibrate the screen, ColorMunki / Spyder etc., but do they work with the printer as well or do I need to get something altogether different that will do both or do I need to get a gadget at all.

Would really appreciate advice.

Thank you.

CD

04-21-2014, 05:15 AM   #2
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I presume your iMac monitor is one of the IPS variety so with that said using a decent calibration tool can be a big help. Along with that after ones monitor is calibrated other factors that come into play for colors being off is if you are using the correct printer profile for your printer in combination with the photo paper type and if you are soft proofing the photos using that profile. Soft proofing is important because each profile will alter the colors somewhat so it is important to know visually prior to printing closely how it will look in print using it.
04-21-2014, 05:31 AM   #3
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Thank you,

Now I will display my total Ignorance with these two questions.

1. What's IPS ?

2. What's soft proofing ?
04-21-2014, 06:21 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by PenPusher Quote
Hi,

I'm using the latest issue of Aperture (with Nik Software's Silver Efex plug in for B & W) on my mid 2007 iMac running OSX Mavericks and trying with considerable difficulty to print with reasonable accuracy to my Canon iP4950 and IX 6550 printers (I'm retired now so the IX 6550 was bought primarily for printing A3 scaled down drawings should I need to after my 16 year old A1 Designjet gave up the ghost).

I have the iMac monitor calibrated as near as my old eyes can see using the Apple calibration tool.

Although I have had Aperture for years I have only recently started using it with intensity.

Both Colour and B & W prints are way off, much lighter and less saturated than what I see on the screen, there's an exhibition coming up at my photo club and I want my prints to look the way I want them and not the way the guy who prints the club photos thinks I want them, they will not be on fine art paper or anything light that, usually just some bulk buy matt luster.

I realise that I need to calibrate the screen to the printers or vice versa, I see there are several gadgets that will calibrate the screen, ColorMunki / Spyder etc., but do they work with the printer as well or do I need to get something altogether different that will do both or do I need to get a gadget at all.

Would really appreciate advice.

Thank you.

CD
Get a hardware device that will work with your OS. Some calibration hardware and software will not run on Mavericks yet, so check the requirements. Make sure that your room lighting is not too bright and that your monitor is not too bright. The latter contributes a lot to prints being too dark. Aim for 100-120 cd/m2.

Once your monitor is profiled, then printing should be a lot more accurate and less maddening. The paper profiles that should be available for your printer should be good enough.

If you encounter terms and acronyms that you don't understand, I think a Google search will provide more comprehensive answers from more sources than, say, I could. The overall topic you are struggling with is called color management.

M

04-21-2014, 06:24 AM   #5
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1. In Plane Switching What is an IPS Monitor? A Practical Guide to Understanding Display Technology

2. Soft Proofing: Matching On-Screen Photos with Prints
04-21-2014, 06:26 AM   #6
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Ok, Tracked down IPS on the internet and discovered that my 24" iMack was the first to have an IPS 1920 x 1200 screen, as it's a mid 2007 model it's probably due for replacement which I would have done if I had still been working more for processor speed than anything else but now that I'm retired I didn't see any real need to until now but I'll never get it passed SWMBO.

I'm reading various soft proofing comments on how to soft proof in Aperture but I'm a/ getting more confused all the time and b/ they seem to be adjusting a lot more settings than I can find.

CD
04-21-2014, 06:52 AM   #7
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That's what I thought, your monitor should be fine for quite awhile 1900x1200 is very adequate for photo work. I use a 27" 2560x1440 IPS one calibrated with a Spyder4.

As Miguel mentioned when you loaded your printer drivers along with that it should have loaded various profiles to go with the Canon photo papers for that printer. If not then you should be able to download them from the Canon site. I haven't used Aperture so I can't be of help there. I know in Lightroom and Photoshop soft proofing is easy.

Last edited by Oldbayrunner; 04-21-2014 at 06:59 AM.
04-21-2014, 06:58 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by PenPusher Quote
Ok, Tracked down IPS on the internet and discovered that my 24" iMack was the first to have an IPS 1920 x 1200 screen, as it's a mid 2007 model it's probably due for replacement which I would have done if I had still been working more for processor speed than anything else but now that I'm retired I didn't see any real need to until now but I'll never get it passed SWMBO.

I'm reading various soft proofing comments on how to soft proof in Aperture but I'm a/ getting more confused all the time and b/ they seem to be adjusting a lot more settings than I can find.

CD
If you replace your iMac, do it for reasons of processing power. The IPS monitor is just fine--they don't really go bad.
M

04-21-2014, 07:49 AM   #9
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Thank you all.

Is there any particular make of calibrater better than another or is just personal preference ?

CD
04-21-2014, 08:00 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by PenPusher Quote
Is there any particular make of calibrater better than another or is just personal preference ?
X-Rite I1Display Pro is the best for home use in my opinion. I'm not that thrilled with their software and recommend the shareware ArgyllCMS along with the graphical user interface DispcalGUI. You have to use the latter two together if you are not highly technical.


M
04-21-2014, 05:31 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by PenPusher Quote
Ok, Tracked down IPS on the internet and discovered that my 24" iMack was the first to have an IPS 1920 x 1200 screen, as it's a mid 2007 model it's probably due for replacement which I would have done if I had still been working more for processor speed than anything else but now that I'm retired I didn't see any real need to until now but I'll never get it passed SWMBO.

I'm reading various soft proofing comments on how to soft proof in Aperture but I'm a/ getting more confused all the time and b/ they seem to be adjusting a lot more settings than I can find.

CD
I have a 2008 Imac that I still use (running mountain lion) .....of interest (maybe).... I replaced the main Hard drive recently with a SSD (solid state drive) and also added a second 1 gig normal Hd....... any way my point is that I was surprise as to how much faster even a modern standard hard drive is compared to 2007/8 vintage ones ..... and they are cheap as well......a computer shop could probally replace you existing HD for a couple of hundred dollars and check that youve got the max ram and youd be happy for 2-3 more years (i am)
04-22-2014, 12:53 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Miguel Quote
X-Rite I1Display Pro
+1 on that, it meets my needs just fine.
04-22-2014, 01:45 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by noelpolar Quote
I have a 2008 Imac that I still use (running mountain lion) .....of interest (maybe).... I replaced the main Hard drive recently with a SSD (solid state drive) and also added a second 1 gig normal Hd....... any way my point is that I was surprise as to how much faster even a modern standard hard drive is compared to 2007/8 vintage ones ..... and they are cheap as well......a computer shop could probally replace you existing HD for a couple of hundred dollars and check that youve got the max ram and youd be happy for 2-3 more years (i am)
I had a problem with my iMac just at the end of the 3yr warranty, can't remember what it was but it was fixed under the warranty and I paid for a 1000Gb hard drive to be installed at that time, so I'm probably Ok for some time more. I notice that some of my colleagues on a cad site are still using the same machines they bought before the crash, there's very little work in architecture at the moment.

To upgrade the drive on my 2007 model you have to take out the glass screen with a pair of suction pads and then start fiddling inside, even though I used to build my own machines when I used Windows I would not fiddle around with a Mac myself. there are a few videos on how to do it on YouTube for the really keen types.

CD

---------- Post added 04-22-2014 at 10:00 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Miguel Quote
X-Rite I1Display Pro is the best for home use in my opinion. I'm not that thrilled with their software and recommend the shareware ArgyllCMS along with the graphical user interface DispcalGUI. You have to use the latter two together if you are not highly technical.M
Right so that takes care of the screen but from reading X-Rite's literature it won't work on the printer and you need to buy the next model at twice the price or thereabouts.

So I've been thinking about this overnight and if I'm correct what you seem to be doing is calibrating the screen and relying on the paper profiles to take care of the printer, which assumes that you have a high end printer for which profiles are available and which naturally I don't have.

The Red River site carries explanations of the Canon codes which really does not make that much sense to me at this time.

I looked up the Canon site and they only have profiles for their top end printers, however when printing from Aperture I see there are 6 different profiles for my machines and 3 generic ones which might work so I' running 4 x 6 test prints from all of them and will see what happens.

CD
04-22-2014, 02:28 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by PenPusher Quote
I had a problem with my iMac just at the end of the 3yr warranty, can't remember what it was but it was fixed under the warranty and I paid for a 1000Gb hard drive to be installed at that time, so I'm probably Ok for some time more. I notice that some of my colleagues on a cad site are still using the same machines they bought before the crash, there's very little work in architecture at the moment.

To upgrade the drive on my 2007 model you have to take out the glass screen with a pair of suction pads and then start fiddling inside, even though I used to build my own machines when I used Windows I would not fiddle around with a Mac myself. there are a few videos on how to do it on YouTube for the really keen types.

CD

---------- Post added 04-22-2014 at 10:00 AM ----------



Right so that takes care of the screen but from reading X-Rite's literature it won't work on the printer and you need to buy the next model at twice the price or thereabouts.

So I've been thinking about this overnight and if I'm correct what you seem to be doing is calibrating the screen and relying on the paper profiles to take care of the printer, which assumes that you have a high end printer for which profiles are available and which naturally I don't have.

The Red River site carries explanations of the Canon codes which really does not make that much sense to me at this time.

I looked up the Canon site and they only have profiles for their top end printers, however when printing from Aperture I see there are 6 different profiles for my machines and 3 generic ones which might work so I' running 4 x 6 test prints from all of them and will see what happens.

CD
I print from Aperture to a Canon consumer grade inkjet (MP990). Anyway….. when printing, in the panel down the left you can select things like "Render Intent"….Perceptial or relative coloristic….try both……and then in "Image adjustments" you can increase/decrease things such as brightness, contrast etc……..generally I need to give these a little bit of a boost…..also select "Black Point Compensation" Also I only use one type of paper (a Kodak Glossy)…… when you go to print a printer dialogue box comes up with further options……I've found that "standard" is the best print quality (High sounds like it should be better but to much ink is put down)……. also need to try different media types……."Photo Paper Pro Platinum" worked best for me…..this was the recommended setting from Kodak.

Also if you old like me….worth writing down any settings…..I always get confused later on.
04-22-2014, 04:51 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by PenPusher Quote
.

I looked up the Canon site and they only have profiles for their top end printers, however when printing from Aperture I see there are 6 different profiles for my machines and 3 generic ones which might work so I' running 4 x 6 test prints from all of them and will see what happens.
from my look up re profiles to use for this printer;

Re: Which ICC profile to use with Canon Pixma iP4950

The profiles should be put on your system by the driver install. Here's the profiles/paper codes that I know of........

Code Description Quality Setting
MP1 Matte Photo Paper 1
PR1 Photo Paper Pro (I and II) 1
PR2 Photo Paper Pro (I and II) 2
PR3 Photo Paper Pro 3
SP1 Photo Paper Plus Glossy 1
SP3 Photo Paper Plus Glossy 3
SP4 Photo Paper Plus Glossy 4
SG1 Photo Paper Semi Glossy 1
SG3 Photo Paper Semi Glossy 3
GL1 Photo Paper Glossy (or Photo Paper Plus Glossy II) 1
GL3 Photo Paper Glossy (or Photo Paper Plus Glossy II) 3
PT1 Photo Paper Pro Platinum 1
PT2 Photo Paper Pro Platinum 2
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