[pschlute]

If you notice though, the Lightroom histogram is quite a bit more bunched up? in the shadow area whereas the histogram on the K50 is more spread out in the shadow areas

Luminance versus RGB histogram, and the fact that a different set of development parameters (Lightroom default versus your camera settings) being applied to the raw image will both affect the shape and spread of the histogram.

[89Y49Si]

Well, I did some testing and found out that using either the "Natural" or "Bright" custom image yields the closest between the back LCD and Lightroom. So it looks like I'll stick to using either one of those. Highlight correction did absolutely nothing to the highlights in the RAW files on Lightroom. No exposure compensation was used during testing either.

I want to say thanks to everyone who helped out. I really appreciate it!!

Testing as follows:
Setup up tripod, set exposure, take picture with different custom images and with/without highlight correction.
At the end, I did a factory reset, set the WB to match the rest of the pictures, then took another pic.

Lens used was the K24 f/2.8

All pictures were taken at ISO200, f/5.6, and 1/800th. Calculated using Sunny 16 and then "overexposed" by 1 stop for some shadow detail. WB was custom set to 5500K.

Modified Muted profile:




Muted w/ Highlight Correction





Natural profile:




Natural w/ Highlight Correction:





Factory reset + 5500K WB to make it even.

[pschlute]

All looks good, glad you got it sorted. Maybe your computer monitor is a bit too bright !....no only joking (although most folks' monitors are too bright)

Nice to see I am not the only one that remembers sunny 16

Take care

[89Y49Si]

All looks good, glad you got it sorted. Maybe your computer monitor is a bit too bright !....no only joking (although most folks' monitors are too bright)

Nice to see I am not the only one that remembers sunny 16

Take care

Thanks!

And one of my most used film cameras has no built in meter, so I am always using the Sunny 16 rule. I practically live by it haha.

[pschlute]

Thanks!

And one of my most used film cameras has no built in meter, so I am always using the Sunny 16 rule. I practically live by it haha.

and you know so many folks would learn about their photography a hell of a lot quicker if they followed the same routine from the get-go. But persuading someone who has just shelled out hundreds or thousands on their first camera, to use it in manual mode and dont look at the meter.....well forget it !

[89Y49Si]

and you know so many folks would learn about their photography a hell of a lot quicker if they followed the same routine from the get-go. But persuading someone who has just shelled out hundreds or thousands on their first camera, to use it in manual mode and dont look at the meter.....well forget it !

I have too many friends who can't take a picture to save their life, unless they use the meter and chimp after taking every shot. They are adamant that the meter is king and you can't outsmart it. But out of the maybe 15 rolls I've put through that camera, I think maybe only a couple of pics had the exposure way out of wack that they couldn't be saved. I rarely use the meter, even in my digital cameras.

[stevebrot]

Thanks!

And one of my most used film cameras has no built in meter, so I am always using the Sunny 16 rule. I practically live by it haha.

and you know so many folks would learn about their photography a hell of a lot quicker if they followed the same routine from the get-go. But persuading someone who has just shelled out hundreds or thousands on their first camera, to use it in manual mode and dont look at the meter.....well forget it !

The lesson of Sunny 16 is that "accurate exposure" means nothing in the real world.


Steve

[BigMackCam]

The lesson of Sunny 16 is that "accurate exposure" means nothing in the real world.

I was several years into my photography before I realised that in-camera metering averages out the selected area to mid-grey For a long time I really thought I was doing something very wrong - and in a sense I was by not understanding how the metering worked. Once I learned that, my exposure in-camera improved ten-fold.

I've never used Sunny 16, and I really should try limiting myself to that for a time, just to build that skill - although I believe here in the North East of England, it's more like the Sunny 8 rule in Summer

[stevebrot]

I believe here in the North East of England, it's more like the Sunny 8 rule in Summer

...same here at latitude N 45° 42'...


Steve