[BigMackCam]

AMD Threadripper is very impressive on code built for multiple threads. On single threaded apps, an I9 or Zeon can still beat it but just barely. I will be doing a home build next year so will be interesting to see what is available then.

I came across this when spec'ing my new laptop. Amongst the available options were the i7-8750H that I picked, but also the cheaper i5-8400H. Whilst the i7-8750H is about 20% better rated overall (12492 vs 10280), the single thread performance of the i5-8400H is actually slightly better. Not significantly so, but better nonetheless. I do wonder if I'll see much benefit from the i7-8750H, but my reason for choosing it was an assumption that, in time, more software will make use of multi-threading for performance gains. Plus, in my case, the cost difference between those two processors wasn't huge...

[dafbp]

Th video card alone draws 230w... CPU is I think around 105w. That.s already around 350w and do you really get 100% output from power supply.

Yes, you do get 100% output from PSU.
If you're thinking about the rated efficiency, an efficiency of 80% means that a (1000W for example) PSU will be consuming around [1000/.7=] 1400W at full load (they don't have max efficiency at full load), and around [900/.8=] 1125W at 90% (900W) load.
But what you should look at is really the rated power. Don't be fooled into buying a 750W (600/.8) Bronze 80% PSU if you decide you need 600W (400 + smart over-provisioning).
That said, nothing wrong whatsoever with buying a 750W PSU when your estimated power draw is around 400W (your example above). That'll keep it running cool and extend longevity.
But 3 times the estimated power draw is unnecessary, and won't give you more reliability.


P.S.:Higher efficiency rating is good for your pocket, and maybe as an indication of component quality, but you can also find some forums with advice on best/worst brands (no comment on your choice of brand, only the power)

[RAART]

Yes, you do get 100% output from PSU.
If you're thinking about the rated efficiency, an efficiency of 80% means that a (1000W for example) PSU will be consuming around [1000/.7=] 1400W at full load (they don't have max efficiency at full load), and around [900/.8=] 1125W at 90% (900W) load.
But what you should look at is really the rated power. Don't be fooled into buying a 750W (600/.8) Bronze 80% PSU if you decide you need 600W (400 + smart over-provisioning).
That said, nothing wrong whatsoever with buying a 750W PSU when your estimated power draw is around 400W (your example above). That'll keep it running cool and extend longevity.
But 3 times the estimated power draw is unnecessary, and won't give you more reliability.


P.S.:Higher efficiency rating is good for your pocket, and maybe as an indication of component quality, but you can also find some forums with advice on best/worst brands (no comment on your choice of brand, only the power)

For the system I recommended the rated power should be around 750W and I provisioned extra 300W, just in case it will be attached other peripherals like scanner, card readers, devices to be charged, etc.
Also in case it will be added different video card, maybe two in SLI the consumption then will be closer to 900W and if you add more RAM as well you getting close or over 1KW.

No offence but check by yourself all the components in the build and add to it all peripherals that most people will use and tell me what number you getting there.

[FozzFoster]

Go with M.2 wherever possible

Another comment here:

M.2 is just a form factor. You can get M.2 that still uses SATA speeds.

What'd you want is M.2 in NVMe which uses PCIe instead of SATA. Those are the crazy fast ones.

And then still, unless you're moving around MASSIVE data files around ALL the time, the speed benefit for the cost is something to consider.
Regular SATA SSD (including M.2 SATA SSDs) are, most of the time, fast enough. There's lightening, and then there's greased lightening - doesn't make much of a difference for a regular user.

One nice thing about either M.2 is that they eliminate cables!

[dafbp]

Also in case it will be added different video card, maybe two in SLI the consumption then will be closer to 900W and if you add more RAM as well you getting close or over 1KW.

No offence taken.
But SLI wasn't part of the equation. Yes, I can do calculations, or use a website for PSU calculations , and they give [the SLI] around 900W power draw (but their recommended PSU is strangely only 1kW). 1.3kW not a waste then.
But without SLI 750W is fine.
Anyway, it's just friendly advice, you know what you want to do with your computer.

Just don't forget to replace those SATA SSDs with PCIe ones if you're doing video editing, or you'll be doing lots of crosswords while your GPUs wait for them.

[CiaranCraigPhoto]

Spotted this build on hotukdeals for £736


SPECIFICATIONS
CaseKolink Stronghold Mid Tower - Black
Power Supply600W 80Plus Bronze Rated PSU
CPUAMD Ryzen 5 2600 Six Core/Twelve Thread Processor
MotherboardGigabyte B450 DDR4 Motherboard
CoolerAMD Wraith Stealth CPU Cooler
MemoryUp to 16GB DDR4 3000MHz Dual Channel RGB Kit
Primary Solid State DriveOptional
Storage Hard DriveSeagate 2TB 7200RPM Hard Drive
Graphics Sapphire Radeon RX VEGA 56 Pulse 8GB
Audio7.1 High Definition Audio

CITIZEN GAMING PC - VEGA 56, Ryzen 5 2600, 16GB 3000mhz RAM - £736.91 Inc Del @ OCUK **3 FREE GAMES** - hotukdeals

[reh321]

The computer I'm using right now started off as a gaming computer recently retired by our daughter's fiance, so of course it has a strong motherboard and video. The two of them added a new disk drive, and connected in the KB, mouse, and display from our recently deceased HP Win8 box. The o/s is Linux because I strongly dislike Win10. We are using external drives to store data, because reading in at the beginning and writing out at the end has very little influence on overall speed, but this arrangement provides much more flexibility since my wife and I each has a laptop and a tablet, where the data might be needed.

We don't have a DVD, because she built the system drive on her computer, and I can use the Internet to download any other software we need.

[PDL]

We don't have a DVD, because she built the system drive on her computer, and I can use the Internet to download any other software we need.

The solution for that is to buy a USB Blu-Ray Burner. Reads and writes nearly everything out there, VLC plays you DVD collection nicely too. I bought mine so I could copy my DVD's and Blu-Ray disks that I use for archived backups. But it comes in handy to load Turbo Tax on my Optical Media devoid lap top. Plus they are pretty cheap.