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01-04-2020, 10:28 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sir Nameless Quote
Tedious retouching is not always necessary. When starting out (that's how I classify myself) you can make the learning curve less steep by the subjects you choose. For starters, you can avoid situations like this that require more work to get good results:

stacker:docs:tutorials:stackselectedfortransparentforeground [Zerene Stacker][]=transparent&s[]=foreground


Pick subjects that are relatively flat that don't have lots of overlapping structures to begin with. Then build from there with more complicated attempts.

Here are my examples, all relatively easy subjects to stack (I was at work yesterday, and couldn't get the links).

This was in the neighborhood of 12-14 or so:


I think this was 5:


This was between 5-10:


This was around 12:


Finally, here's my procedure for focus stacking with my DA35 macro, so I don't have to reinvent the wheel every time or mess up some detail and have to go back and re-shoot the stack.

1. Set up the camera on a tripod with remote shutter release and two second delay.
2. Set the camera at ISO 200, f/8, and aperture priority exposure. Set white balance with a white or gray card.
3. Compose the shot at the closest focus distance (ie with the nearest detail in focus). Due to focus breathing the scene will zoom out as your focus further away.
4. Take a test shot with the furthest detail in focus that you want in focus. Check that the background is sufficiently blurred. If not, open the aperture and take test shots until satisfied with the background blur. The best range is f/5.6-8, with the best overall sharpness at f/8.
5. Return the focus to the closest detail you want to be in focus.
6. Meter for exposure then switch to manual exposure to lock settings.
Take a series of shots starting with the closest detail and progressing outward. To do this you’ll be turning the focus ring on your 35 mm macro in a clockwise direction as you’re facing the rear of the camera.

Finally, I stack with 16-bit tiffs for best quality, but I'm not stacking that many files. If you're into the 100's do yourself a favor and stack jpegs.

That's about all I know. Good luck and happy shooting!
Superb stacks! Love the purple violets.Thanks for this very helpful listing of steps to follow for stacking. Great job describing the steps clearly. Your list helps me lock the process in.
Thanks,
barondla

01-04-2020, 10:30 AM - 1 Like   #17
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I use the Novoflex Macro Rail for precise shift of the camera into a macro scenery without moving the focus ring of the camera. Helicon Focus computes a single image out of the image stack. You have to collect some experience to know which method fits what kind of image stack best.
01-04-2020, 11:00 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sir Nameless Quote
1. Set up the camera on a tripod with remote shutter release and two second delay.
2. Set the camera at ISO 200, f/8, and aperture priority exposure. Set white balance with a white or gray card.
3. Compose the shot at the closest focus distance (ie with the nearest detail in focus). Due to focus breathing the scene will zoom out as your focus further away.
4. Take a test shot with the furthest detail in focus that you want in focus. Check that the background is sufficiently blurred. If not, open the aperture and take test shots until satisfied with the background blur. The best range is f/5.6-8, with the best overall sharpness at f/8.
5. Return the focus to the closest detail you want to be in focus.
6. Meter for exposure then switch to manual exposure to lock settings.
Take a series of shots starting with the closest detail and progressing outward. To do this you’ll be turning the focus ring on your 35 mm macro in a clockwise direction as you’re facing the rear of the camera.
Very useful recipe, thanks!
01-04-2020, 12:44 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by hypermodern Quote
Very useful recipe, thanks!
That's largely the process I used for my exposures. My biggest problem was not getting enough layers to achieve uniform sharpness throughout the entire image. Using a focusing rail instead of turning the focus ring on the lens might help me to control what I'm doing.

01-04-2020, 02:25 PM - 1 Like   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by travelswsage Quote
Wow, nice shot -- incredible sharpness on the fly. How many shots did you need to stack?
It was a while ago, but I'm pretty sure it was less than ten.
01-04-2020, 04:45 PM - 3 Likes   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sir Nameless Quote
Finally, here's my procedure for focus stacking with my DA35 macro, so I don't have to reinvent the wheel every time or mess up some detail and have to go back and re-shoot the stack.
1. Set up the camera on a tripod with remote shutter release and two second delay.
2. Set the camera at ISO 200, f/8, and aperture priority exposure. Set white balance with a white or gray card.
3. Compose the shot at the closest focus distance (ie with the nearest detail in focus). Due to focus breathing the scene will zoom out as your focus further away.
4. Take a test shot with the furthest detail in focus that you want in focus. Check that the background is sufficiently blurred. If not, open the aperture and take test shots until satisfied with the background blur. The best range is f/5.6-8, with the best overall sharpness at f/8.
5. Return the focus to the closest detail you want to be in focus.
6. Meter for exposure then switch to manual exposure to lock settings.
Take a series of shots starting with the closest detail and progressing outward. To do this you’ll be turning the focus ring on your 35 mm macro in a clockwise direction as you’re facing the rear of the camera.
Finally, I stack with 16-bit tiffs for best quality, but I'm not stacking that many files. If you're into the 100's do yourself a favor and stack jpegs.
That's about all I know. Good luck and happy shooting!
Sir Nameless, thanks for the detailed focus stacking procedure and your photos are fantastic! Your steps for shooting are pretty much the same as what I do. I use Lightroom and Photoshop for my processing and have always used the RAW files. I will have to try converting to tiffs first. Since this thread was going, I decided to do a shot today and process it. This one is a stack of 9 images with no touch ups. I see a handful of places that didn't come out quite right, and probably could have benefitted with a few more shots. However, I can probably touch up a few of them. The lens was the Pentax FA 50mm f2.8 macro.
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01-04-2020, 11:01 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by ToddK Quote
Sir Nameless, thanks for the detailed focus stacking procedure and your photos are fantastic! Your steps for shooting are pretty much the same as what I do. I use Lightroom and Photoshop for my processing and have always used the RAW files. I will have to try converting to tiffs first. Since this thread was going, I decided to do a shot today and process it. This one is a stack of 9 images with no touch ups. I see a handful of places that didn't come out quite right, and probably could have benefitted with a few more shots. However, I can probably touch up a few of them. The lens was the Pentax FA 50mm f2.8 macro.
Amazing detail! Image looks great. Motivates me to try some stacking with the K-1.
Thanks for sharing,
barondla

01-04-2020, 11:13 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by barondla Quote
Amazing detail! Image looks great. Motivates me to try some stacking with the K-1.
Thanks for sharing,
barondla
You should absolutely give it a try. I really enjoy the process and find the results very rewarding.
01-05-2020, 09:28 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by ToddK Quote
You should absolutely give it a try. I really enjoy the process and find the results very rewarding.
Focus rail ordered!
01-05-2020, 12:59 PM   #25
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Affinity Photo is what I use by default. Sometimes the results aren't particularly good, sometimes perfect. The main challenge is ghosting.

I tried Helicon and one other focus-stacking app (I can't remember the name) but they produced equally good and not-so-good results despite having lots of options and settings. So I decided to stick with Affinity Photo because I already use it for image editing.
01-05-2020, 02:43 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by ToddK Quote
Sir Nameless, thanks for the detailed focus stacking procedure and your photos are fantastic! Your steps for shooting are pretty much the same as what I do. I use Lightroom and Photoshop for my processing and have always used the RAW files. I will have to try converting to tiffs first. Since this thread was going, I decided to do a shot today and process it. This one is a stack of 9 images with no touch ups. I see a handful of places that didn't come out quite right, and probably could have benefitted with a few more shots. However, I can probably touch up a few of them. The lens was the Pentax FA 50mm f2.8 macro.
Beautiful job! I guess the number of exposures required depends on the subject and the magnification used.
01-05-2020, 07:37 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by ToddK Quote
Since this thread was going, I decided to do a shot today and process it.
Very nicely done!

---------- Post added 01-05-20 at 07:40 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by ecostigny Quote
Beautiful job! I guess the number of exposures required depends on the subject and the magnification used.
Thanks. And yes, absolutely right. This link helps describe how to determine the aperture and step sizes you need.
stacker:docs:faqlist [Zerene Stacker]

I'm lazy so I just use focus peaking in live view and make sure the camera-generated white in-focus indication overlaps a bit with each step.

And, they also have a good article on focus rail vs. focus ring.
stacker:docs:troubleshooting:ringversusrail [Zerene Stacker]
01-05-2020, 07:54 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sir Nameless Quote
Very nicely done!

---------- Post added 01-05-20 at 07:40 PM ----------



Thanks. And yes, absolutely right. This link helps describe how to determine the aperture and step sizes you need.
stacker:docs:faqlist [Zerene Stacker]

I'm lazy so I just use focus peaking in live view and make sure the camera-generated white in-focus indication overlaps a bit with each step.

And, they also have a good article on focus rail vs. focus ring.

stacker:docs:troubleshooting:ringversusrail [Zerene Stacker]
Ah, a million (well actually 97.99) thanks for that last very timely link.
Focus rail order canceled for the moment. Wasn't shipping until tomorrow so no harm.
Relying on the focus ring makes so much sense if considering perspective.
01-05-2020, 08:09 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by ToddK Quote
Sir Nameless, thanks for the detailed focus stacking procedure and your photos are fantastic! Your steps for shooting are pretty much the same as what I do. I use Lightroom and Photoshop for my processing and have always used the RAW files. I will have to try converting to tiffs first. Since this thread was going, I decided to do a shot today and process it. This one is a stack of 9 images with no touch ups. I see a handful of places that didn't come out quite right, and probably could have benefitted with a few more shots. However, I can probably touch up a few of them. The lens was the Pentax FA 50mm f2.8 macro.
Great. Another branch of photography to get interested in. Thanks!

Awesome image. I think I need to learn more about this.
01-07-2020, 08:38 PM - 1 Like   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by barondla Quote
I've visited the Extreme Macro Photography site and it has fantastic photos, equipment, and tutorials. Thanks for the the tip.
Welcome. I've found it to be a great site too.
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