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10-24-2007, 09:27 PM   #16
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K10d Photo How can I improve exposure

Very interesting thread!
While I have only been using digital for about 5 years, I have 55+ years experience in all aspects of photography - Large format, 120 SLR's and 35mm. I have processed in a soup plate and using both colour enlargers and high speed printers and both roller transport processors and leader.
My experience with exposure, admittedly "down under" is a shutter speed of 1/ISO @ between F11 and F16 in direct sunlight will give a well exposed shot (no matter whether the subject is white or black. This is an excellent starting point for a standard scene. Manual exposure of course.
I always use manual exposure and if the subject does not stand in direct sunlight, I use the green button to estimate exposure and test with the preview setting on the main switch. I use the histogram and the over and under warnings to correct the exposure. Thereafter I shoot away unless lighting conditions change, just a quick glance at the shot while it is on the LCD.
I use PsCs3 Bridge with ACE 4.2 to process the PEF images ( they are about 35% smaller than the DNG's with no loss of quality.I fing that the auto setting in ACR will produce images that are exposed the right of the histogram with excessive brightness - easily adjusted with the brightness slided or even the exposure. The camera, of course, does not know whether you intended high of low key image.
I like a conservative image no blown highlights (except specular highlights) and a minimum of shadow clipping.
They print beautifully.
Let's all keep on improving.
Ron McDermott

10-25-2007, 08:50 AM   #17
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In tricky light situations I like manual exposure. I take a couple test shots to see which exposure I like best then leave it alone. This way my meter can't be fooled by changing backgrounds. As long as my light source remains the same, my exposures will stay in line.
10-26-2007, 12:55 AM   #18
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K10d Photo How can I improve exposure

QuoteOriginally posted by davemdsn Quote
In tricky light situations I like manual exposure. I take a couple test shots to see which exposure I like best then leave it alone. This way my meter can't be fooled by changing backgrounds. As long as my light source remains the same, my exposures will stay in line.
You are absolutely correct (and admirably concise!) Keep on shooting.
Ron
07-03-2009, 02:43 AM   #19
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Ivan Glisin - You wrote "I am going to attempt to get some pictures... Any help is welcome!! ... and so on. I agree with you in all of what wou said.
I have found matrix useful in average situations, however my first shot is only taken to evaluate the exposure. I then set the manunal exposure and do not change unless the lighting etx changes. After all 35 years ago when I was shooting colour film in my Hasselblad or Mamiya RB67 I used am incident light meter and of course I altered nothing so long as the light did not change as did most if not all professional photographers. IT WORKED.
Cheers
Ron McDermott
Queensland, Australia

07-11-2009, 08:44 PM   #20
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Yes, an incident light meter is probably the way to go in this instance, but you do realize you're responding to a two-year-old thread, right?
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