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08-27-2009, 11:59 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
You might want to check out the price for Silverfast Ai Studio (IT8) for the Nikon scanners. There is a reason why I am using Nikon Scan
Yes, I see the price - and the price for the IT8 targets to work with it.

On the other hand, while I really hate thinking of what that is going to cost, it really doesn't compare to the cost that all those drawers of slides represent. A roll of film with processing was... how much again??? Multiply that by... how many trays of slides??? And then there's all the old family slides of the vacations when we were kids, my brothers and I growing up, etc. Not exactly artistic, but how do you put a value on the memories those bring back?

So, yup, I think I have a pretty good idea about the cost. But given the above, I don't see a way around it. Or at least, around finding a solution that will allow me to get what I want out of all those slides without laying out a good chunk of cash.

08-27-2009, 12:17 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
Not personally, since I can't afford to buy both. I did read a number of reviews that stated that the Digital ICE feature with Kodachrome worked much better on the 9000. The photo examples in the reviews showed a loss of detail when using the ICE version which works with the 5000 on some Kodachrome slides. The 9000 has a dedicated Kodachrome setting.

However, others report that ICE does work on Kodachrome with the 5000 most of the time.
One thing I do have going for me is that the vast majority of my slides are scratch free, and they're almost as good in regards to dust contamination.

I will have to break out the slide projector and screen and reconfirm that when I get home, but if that is still their state, then Digital ICE issues are not as important as they would be otherwise.

At least, that's what I assume.

With that in mind - and the fact that a 9000 is REALLY more than I can afford to spend right now unless I feel I absolutely have to - what are opinions on how much difference am I going to see in "end result" between a Coolscan V ED and a 5000 if I use either Silverfast or Vuescan with IT8 targets on "perfect condition" slides? Most of them being either Kodachrome or Fuji. Right now speed is not an issue - I'm prepared to give up speed for less wallet shock right now if the end results are comparable. The house DOES need a new roof...

The good ones that suffer from not having a much higher quality scanner should not be too numerous, and those I can pay to have somebody with a high end scanner do for me. Or, bribe my Photoshop guru wife to put aside her architectural work long enough to humour my Photoshop needs to recover an imperfect scan.

At least, that's my current thinking and what I'm seeking input on with this post.
08-27-2009, 12:51 PM   #33
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I think it is worthwhile to consider the canoscan 8800F, especially as it is now under $200. I am still figuring it out, but the scans are acceptable for my use.

I wrote a little about my learning curve experience in the medium format section. If you would like a "sample", I could scan a "few" for you - not rolls, but a couple.
08-27-2009, 01:49 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rick Quote
One thing I do have going for me is that the vast majority of my slides are scratch free, and they're almost as good in regards to dust contamination.

I will have to break out the slide projector and screen and reconfirm that when I get home, but if that is still their state, then Digital ICE issues are not as important as they would be otherwise.

At least, that's what I assume.

With that in mind - and the fact that a 9000 is REALLY more than I can afford to spend right now unless I feel I absolutely have to - what are opinions on how much difference am I going to see in "end result" between a Coolscan V ED and a 5000 if I use either Silverfast or Vuescan with IT8 targets on "perfect condition" slides? Most of them being either Kodachrome or Fuji. Right now speed is not an issue - I'm prepared to give up speed for less wallet shock right now if the end results are comparable. The house DOES need a new roof...

The good ones that suffer from not having a much higher quality scanner should not be too numerous, and those I can pay to have somebody with a high end scanner do for me. Or, bribe my Photoshop guru wife to put aside her architectural work long enough to humour my Photoshop needs to recover an imperfect scan.

At least, that's my current thinking and what I'm seeking input on with this post.
I would suspect that if you are willing to spend time with the spot healing tool in PS, you can get away with not using ICE on the Kodachrome slides that don't take well to it with the 5000.

08-28-2009, 02:33 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rick Quote
One thing I do have going for me is that the vast majority of my slides are scratch free, and they're almost as good in regards to dust contamination.

I will have to break out the slide projector and screen and reconfirm that when I get home, but if that is still their state, then Digital ICE issues are not as important as they would be otherwise.

At least, that's what I assume.

With that in mind - and the fact that a 9000 is REALLY more than I can afford to spend right now unless I feel I absolutely have to - what are opinions on how much difference am I going to see in "end result" between a Coolscan V ED and a 5000 if I use either Silverfast or Vuescan with IT8 targets on "perfect condition" slides? Most of them being either Kodachrome or Fuji. Right now speed is not an issue - I'm prepared to give up speed for less wallet shock right now if the end results are comparable. The house DOES need a new roof...

The good ones that suffer from not having a much higher quality scanner should not be too numerous, and those I can pay to have somebody with a high end scanner do for me. Or, bribe my Photoshop guru wife to put aside her architectural work long enough to humour my Photoshop needs to recover an imperfect scan.

At least, that's my current thinking and what I'm seeking input on with this post.
Rick, if you follow that strategy I would certainly go for the 5000 + Silverfast Ai (the original IT-8 targets can be bought off ebay sometimes quite cheap). It will be good enough for the majority of shots and the rare ones, which you want in professional scan quality would need a pro scanner anyway and can be done by a service provides.

Just be aware, that Kodachrome is among the hardest film material to scan, because it can have very high densities and steep contrast. Also the base of Kodachrome is completely different from "standard" slide film, as it is more related to a silver halide BW film, than usual E-6 slides. This is, by the way, the reason, why Digital ICE is not recommended for Kodachrome (it isn't either for BW).

Ben
08-28-2009, 12:05 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
Is there a scanning tips thread somewhere?
This Web site has some tips on slide copying with a digital camera: Scanning Basics 101 - All about digital images
08-28-2009, 01:24 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
...Digital ICE is not recommended for Kodachrome (it isn't either for BW).
I am acutely aware of what happens when Digital ICE is used with B&W, but was unaware of any particular problems with Kodachrome and the current version, ICE4. My 5000 ED works just fine using ICE from Nikon Scan 4.0, but the effectiveness of the ICE is decreased somewhat as compared to non-Kodachrome scans. Dust is handled well, scratches not so well. Better than nothing, but hardly the kind of fatal results you get with B&W negatives.

Steve

08-28-2009, 04:26 PM   #38
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ICE4 works fine with a lot of Kodachrome... depends on the era. Don't confuse yourself with books, website "instruction", or with any application other than Nikonscan or Vuescan (and the justification for Vuescan mostly has to do with workflow preferences). You'll find that the most minimal "EZ" defaults are superb. It's not tricky. Kodachrome is, like Velvia, a problem mostly when someone thinks underexposed shadows hide important information...ie bad camera work and too much peering at the resulting film with loupe. If the image doesn't show what you want fairly obviously in projection, it's badly exposed and maybe not worth the struggle.
08-28-2009, 04:34 PM   #39
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It's true that Ice4, at least with my Nikon V, has trouble with Kodachrome. However it's not true that there's difficulty scanning properly exposed Kodachrome otherwise...expect to do simple color correction in post processing...perhaps not necessary when scanning Ektachrome.
08-29-2009, 02:21 PM   #40
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Forgive me if I missed it, but what will you be doing with the output from the scanner?

Chris
09-08-2009, 05:34 AM   #41
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Scanner for 120 & 35mm film

Hi,

I'm bumping up this thread as I'm looking for a scanner for 35mm film and 120 film. I've started to shoot 35mm film in order to get accustomed to film manipulation (vs digital cameras) and ultimately buy medium format gear (probably Pentax 645 or 6x7, depending on the finding)

As I live in Paris, it is easy to find pro laboratory selling film in any format but the price for developping and scanning is quite step (15€ for a 36) so I just have it developped and put on a contact sheet.

However I consider buying a scanner to post-process those pictures (at least the ones I find interresting) Considering that I want to print large format (A3, A2), I need a very good qualtiy.

Which scanner would you advice for those 2 formats ?

Regards,
Guillaume
09-08-2009, 08:46 AM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by ghelary Quote
Hi,

I'm bumping up this thread as I'm looking for a scanner for 35mm film and 120 film. I've started to shoot 35mm film in order to get accustomed to film manipulation (vs digital cameras) and ultimately buy medium format gear (probably Pentax 645 or 6x7, depending on the finding)

As I live in Paris, it is easy to find pro laboratory selling film in any format but the price for developping and scanning is quite step (15€ for a 36) so I just have it developped and put on a contact sheet.

However I consider buying a scanner to post-process those pictures (at least the ones I find interresting) Considering that I want to print large format (A3, A2), I need a very good qualtiy.

Which scanner would you advice for those 2 formats ?

Regards,
Guillaume
If quality is the most important factor, try to get a secondhand Creo or Imacon Flextight scanner. A photog I am in regular contact found one for a price not too much about the Nikon Coolscan 9000 new.

The latter one would probably the next best choice.

Anyway, if properly used, the Epson V700/750 provide very good medium format scans. You just need to make some test uns to optimzie the film to flatbed distance (the film trays can be adjusted). If that is done correctly, you will reach film grain lebvel (unless you would use Kodachrome or perhaps Velvia 50, which both will outresolve any flatbed). Be aware, that best results (especially in density) will only be reached, when using the Epson with Silverfast software.

You will find a meaningful comparisson here: Collaborative Large Format Scanner Comparison


Ben
09-10-2009, 01:53 AM   #43
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Many thanks for the link.

I don't plan to buy this by tomorrow, but now I can dig in eBay and wait for a good opprotunity.

Regards,
Guillaume
09-10-2009, 02:11 AM   #44
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Btw, developping + scanning is only 8,50€ at Negatif+ for a 135 film.
09-25-2009, 07:59 AM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
I own the Nikon Super Coolscan 5000 ED.
I've just bought one of these. I'm really pleased with the quality of the scans when I get them, but using Nikon Scan 4.02, I'm getting frequent acquisition failures.

Often, just clicking the scan button again will result in success, but it's a real drag not to be able to scan a strip reliably most, if not every time.

I've tried numerous combinations of settings, with no joy.

I've also tried VueScan, which doesn't fail to scan the way Nikon Scan does, but doesn't give me anywhere near as good scans.

I'm a bit stuck, and would be grateful for any ideas on how to get it all working reliably.
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