[dadipentak]

I've been using NeatImage which does ok but recently I discovered the NR controls in ACR as I open the file in PSE and I'm starting to use that more and more. It really helped with the shots from this season's first dim-gym basketball game.

I really have no idea which is better technically but there are two things in favor of ACR from my pov: 1) the user interface is very simple and it's easy to see how adjustments affect the image and 2) the NR is done in the conversion process before I save the file in tif format and I understand from an earlier thread that this is preferable in terms of IQ.

[WerTicus]

I just use the raw processor in photo shop.

I am yet to see a special noise reduction program that didn't ultimately ruin an image.

noise does not bother me though. (but weird artifacts and a compressed look does)

[JohnBee]

I ended up choosing the last because it allows me to apply NR with a layer mask in Photoshop. Though I got the best default results with the Topaz plugin.

I use Noise Ninja in layers all the time.
I'm fairly certain you can do this with any NR system(never tried though).

[rustynail925]

I tried the Noise Ninja NR, It does a good job on noise but it softens the image. Are there any process in which it wont affect the clarity of the image?
Can you guys share your workflow in dealing with high iso noise reduction using LR2.5 and another for NR

[JohnBee]

I tried the Noise Ninja NR, It does a good job on noise but it softens the image. Are there any process in which it wont affect the clarity of the image?
Can you guys share your workflow in dealing with high iso noise reduction using LR2.5 and another for NR

Though I don't use LR, I can post some of my own methods in dealing with noise with Noise Ninja in Photoshop. I believe the tools and workflow is the same under the stand alone version as well.

One of the most significant steps in noise reduction is creating noise profiles for your camera. This essentially maps the noise patterns for your particular camera for the noise reduction algorithm thus ensuring the most accurate results possible. Otherwise... all you're left with is a default(one size fits all noise reduction) which is not very accurate.

The second most significant detail issue is that of the noise brush. This tool essentially masks away(or masks in) detail and or noise suppression. So... once you've found a suitable noise reduction setting, you can go over the prominent edges throughout the scene(paint them) and make them all sharp again(works wonders!).

The third and final most significant tool in my process is the contrast and sharpen tools. Which work to preserve detail and color loss in the noise reduction process.

There are of course much more advanced methods to squeeze out better noise control in images, but I find that these three areas are the most significant in getting results that are close to the images posted earlier.

-

PS. I've found a LR, Noise Ninja video tutorial here. , which I found actually quite good. I've also found the v2 users guide online with a tutorial section here

[wll]

I have had very good luck with Topaz Denoise.


wll

[emalvick]

I utilized Noiseware when I end up with a shot that exceeds my tolerance to noise, which can be quite high.

In my own workflow, I'll utilize my RAW processor, LR 2.5 at the moment, to do as much as I can and get it as close to finished as I can. If LR's noise reduction doesn't do enough for me:

1. I export a TIF to Photoshop
2. I duplicated the background layer.
3. I run Noiseware on the duplicated layer

Depending on the result, I then use something like:

a. the masking tool to get important details back. Sometimes I really only need NR on the sky.

b. I lessen the NR by changing the layer opacity to get detail back or

c. I'll sometimes try duplicating the NR layer and sharpen it a bit to see if I can't get detail back.

I generally find that I don't ever need much NR and as a result, I am rarely losing enough detail to worry about these last steps unless the images was underexposed to begin with or at ISO 1600.

I do find that LR can do decent with NR when little is needed, but at a certain point, it loses a lot of detail, and Noiseware does do better for me, and it can be just as simple as LR or more complicated if you like.

I use a K10d, and I often find that when there is noise that my worries are a little too much as it rarely shows up in prints (I only go up to 8 x 10) as significant as it shows up on screen (tested no NR on various prints early on in my dSLR experience). When it does, Pentax sensors seem to do a good job of making the noise more like what film grain used to be.

[rustynail925]

Is there a software that do NR but still maintains the detail and sharpness?

[JohnBee]

Is there a software that do NR but still maintains the detail and sharpness?

Most NR software have a features to preserve detail and /or sharpness.

[dadipentak]

Most NR software have a features to preserve detail and /or sharpness.

This is an area where my "not an expert" warning really applies but since noise is a kind of detail, I think I'd say "Most NR software have features which allow the user to control NR vs detail preservation and sharpness."

For me, the big take-away from this thread is the differential application of NR through the use of selection tools and layers. "Light dawns over Marble Head!" as my sister would say

[philbaum]

Is there a software that do NR but still maintains the detail and sharpness?

i use Topaz Denoise as a plug-in for Elements, tried noiseware after reading a review in Photo Techniques magazine, but prefer Denoise. I import all images into LR 2.5 first, then work with them to determine which images are worth the effort, then edit in Elements by sending a TIFF to Elements. If i'm sending a TIF to Elements, then i eliminate all sharpening, noise removal in LR before sending the TIF over.

Topaz makes 6 or 7 other plug-ins for various purposes and provides a package deal for all of them.

I need to develop a batch process as the one at a time method is too time consuming for large number of pics.

Phil

[Marc Sabatella]

I prefer to do as much of all my processing as possible - ideally, *all* of it - within the realm of non-destructive/parametric image editing in RAW. Meaning at no time duirng the erditing process do I convert to JPEG (although I might batch generate medium resolution JPEG *after* editing, just to have something I can post, email, keep on my laptop, etc). While I've tried a few of the dedicated noise reductionj programs, they were all far too disruptive to my workflow for me to want to use the regularly. So most of my NR is done the same place as the rest of my PP - ACDSee Pro. But I could see myself buying one of the standalone NR programs for use on pictures I plan to make unusually large prints of, or if I were submitting the occasional picture to stock agencies or magazines or whatever.

[Ivan de Almeida]

I try ever make a exposure to the right. I think the best way to avoid noise is a good exposure.

And use the PerfecRAW converter with VNG algoritm to high ISO photos.

Exemple:

ISO 1600 with two candles:


Hand 100% detail, conversion before contrast, curves and other modifications:


Face, after curves, contrast, etc (100% crop)

[NaClH2O]

I use noise ninja as a photoshop plugin working with my PSE7. (Tho to be sure I will check out the links JohnBee gave) As a plugin it does recognise DNGs. My workflow is basically: Bulk convert PEF's to DNGs; open in ACR, adjust gross exposure, tweak WB if needed, fill light, recovery etc as needed in ACR. Then open in PSE7 edit; crop if needed, play with shadow/highlights sliders and level sliders again if needed. Apply any NN needed and go to layers if needed. I found it better for me to use NN before doing any layer work. NN used as a plugin pops up under the "Filters" tab.

NaCl(excellent program, has saved my bacon many times)H2O

[rustynail925]

I try ever make a exposure to the right. I think the best way to avoid noise is a good exposure.

And use the PerfecRAW converter with VNG algoritm to high ISO photos.

Exemple:

ISO 1600 with two candles:


Hand 100% detail, conversion before contrast, curves and other modifications:


Face, after curves, contrast, etc (100% crop)

Whats the exif of this shot? was the two candles the only available light when you took this shot?