[jpzk]

Rather than assembling three or more images into an HDR image, one assembles two images only. The specific option in Photomatix is called 'Highlight and Shadow' referring to the two exposures to be used.

I taught a basic photo course last fall, and one of the students had been on a weekend seminar. One of the images used was to take the picture of a couple standing in open barn doors at the far end of a stable. It was a full sunny day outside, and no lights were on inside.

I asked her for a copy of her NEF file (Nikon RAW format taken with her D90) and tried a number of things using my brand new to me copy of Photomatix. The most successful of them was to make two virtual copies of the file and increase exposure one stop on one of them, and decrease exposure one stop on the other.

The result was very realistic, and I decided that I had found a tool that was relatively easy to use to bring out more detail in the highlights and the shadows without destroying the basic image. The result was that the posts and beams inside the stable were visible, but still in deep shadow, while the outside was perfectly exposed and details of the house and garden were clearly visible. I am not a fan of the overly done HDR image.

I like the natural look. If I were standing in that stable, and looked at the posts, my eyes would take a second to register the very dim light, just as the image does. Looking out the end of the stable, my eyes would "stop down" and show me a clear image of the outside.

Well, I took a go at your advice and tried two different shots and used the Highlights-Shadows option; I also saved one RAW file, under a different name, and ended up with to of the same shot .... added some exp. to one and lower the exp. to the other one, opened them in P_Matix ... used the option as per discussed.
You are right, it does render a natural quality to the pic, without having to go through the Photoshop/ACR process which you can also use for similar result.

Thanks for the tip ... very useful.

Cheers.

JP

[Canada_Rockies]

Well, I took a go at your advice and tried two different shots and used the Highlights-Shadows option; I also saved one RAW file, under a different name, and ended up with to of the same shot .... added some exp. to one and lower the exp. to the other one, opened them in P_Matix ... used the option as per discussed.
You are right, it does render a natural quality to the pic, without having to go through the Photoshop/ACR process which you can also use for similar result.

Thanks for the tip ... very useful.

Cheers.

JP

You are very welcome. I like the effect very much, and the image in question was perfect for it. Unfortunately, it is not my image or I could post the example. I have learned so much from this forum. It is nice to have given a bit back.

[jpzk]

You are very welcome. I like the effect very much, and the image in question was perfect for it. Unfortunately, it is not my image or I could post the example. I have learned so much from this forum. It is nice to have given a bit back.

Great learning experience!

Yes the images produced that way look very natural, without the "overdone" rendering we often see in HDR pictures. This might very well become a habit!

I am not sure if you own a K7 but I also just found out how to use the Exposure Bracketing from within the drive mode. Looks interesting. Seemingly fast too. But that is for taking 3 or 5 shots at different exposures .... more to do with real HDR stuff.

Cheers.

JP

[Canada_Rockies]

Great learning experience!

Yes the images produced that way look very natural, without the "overdone" rendering we often see in HDR pictures. This might very well become a habit!

I am not sure if you own a K7 but I also just found out how to use the Exposure Bracketing from within the drive mode. Looks interesting. Seemingly fast too. But that is for taking 3 or 5 shots at different exposures .... more to do with real HDR stuff.

Cheers.

JP

I'm still using a K10D, which also has the auto bracket system. I've used it quite a bit, but only to get the right exposure, not to HDR an image.

My personal system is to use RAW and to use the "blinkies" (highlight and shadows warnings) to get the exposure that leaves only one or two very small areas that are blown out. This is my take on "Expose to the Right" (ETTR) and gives an image that can be used for the H&S treatment with Photomatix. If the blown areas in the highlights are small, there are none in the RAW image which has a wider dynamic range than the JPEG displayed on the LCD. I seldom need to use the treatment, but for an image now and again, it is a real boon.

[jpzk]

I'm still using a K10D, which also has the auto bracket system. I've used it quite a bit, but only to get the right exposure, not to HDR an image.

My personal system is to use RAW and to use the "blinkies" (highlight and shadows warnings) to get the exposure that leaves only one or two very small areas that are blown out. This is my take on "Expose to the Right" (ETTR) and gives an image that can be used for the H&S treatment with Photomatix. If the blown areas in the highlights are small, there are none in the RAW image which has a wider dynamic range than the JPEG displayed on the LCD. I seldom need to use the treatment, but for an image now and again, it is a real boon.

That would make a lot of sense actually. Those blinkies come in very handy; I use that too. When the areas are large, it does tell me that something goofy is going on in my exposure.
Little needs being done when a picture is well exposed and in focusbut, as you well say, H&S treatment is a bonus.

JP