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03-03-2010, 11:27 PM   #1
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K-7 Raw processing on linux; dull colors

I tried using the latest versions UFRaw and Digikam; however, I still am not happy with the colors that are being rendered. Is there a K7 ICC color profile that can help with things. Could someone please share any thoughts on getting the "right" colors?

Thanks for any help!

P.S I understand "colors" are subjective but I would like to make sure that I got the technicality right.

03-04-2010, 01:39 AM   #2
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What version of UFraw are you using? The latest one is 0.16 and best supprts the K-7. The upcoming 0.17 will support it even better (late March release date). I don't need any K-7 colour profile, the "Color Matrix" input profile should be fine for all cases. Make sure you're using sRGB colour space as your working and monitor profiles, unless you know you really need something else.

Oh, and post pictures. We can't tell what you mean by "dull colours" unless you post examples.

edit: I know you said "latest version", but on Linux, that can mean anything, including "latest version available for my distribution", which isn't really the latest.
03-04-2010, 09:53 AM   #3
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GoremanX -- I'm using UFRaw 0.17 (coming off the build respository). I use the "Color Matrix" profile, however, the colors don't really match things coming off the JPEG processor on the camera. I'm not sure how to post images on this forum -- let me work that out today...
03-04-2010, 10:53 AM   #4
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Out of curiosity, I tried to see how Bibble would do -- colors okay, not great! And, no color profile for the K7?

This is the available list:
pen100.icm pen10.icm pen2000.icm pen20.icm pend.icm pendl.icm pends.icm

Does the PEF have an embedded color profile (I think not!)

03-04-2010, 11:19 AM   #5
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PEF files have information on what your camera was set to (sRGB or AdobeRGB), but RAW files do not have a colour space until you've processed them and either saved them into a file format or opened them in an application. For the record, you should not use the AdobeRGB setting at all, just leave your camera set to sRGB.

FYI, you're much better off using DNG files, not PEF. They're better supported in general by most software, and on the K-7, they take up the same amount of space as PEF files. There's no quality advantage to using one over the other.

To post pictures to this forum, you have a few options.
03-04-2010, 11:38 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by K7er Quote
... the colors don't really match things coming off the JPEG processor on the camera.
The default jpeg settings on the camera change the 'look' of the picture. You will not find this back in the RAW file. Isn't that maybe the 'problem' that you're observing?

So you have to fine-tune the images in UFRAW (and maybe other PP tools) to get the same 'look'.

WimS

PS I don't do much post-processing (yet), so I might be totally wrong.
03-04-2010, 11:42 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by sterretje Quote
The default jpeg settings on the camera change the 'look' of the picture. You will not find this back in the RAW file. Isn't that maybe the 'problem' that you're observing?

So you have to fine-tune the images in UFRAW (and maybe other PP tools) to get the same 'look'.

WimS

PS I don't do much post-processing (yet), so I might be totally wrong.

Yup, agreed. First step towards that is making sure that the colors match, which, in turn requires getting the K7's color profile. Most others would give you a decent approximation.

03-04-2010, 11:51 AM   #8
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Actually the first step is to set your camera to either "bright" or "natural" in the Custom Image settings so your on-camera preview will be at least somewhat close to real-life.

But disregarding that, the effort is pointless. The K-7 does not necessarily give accurate colours with its JPEG engine. Getting a K-7 colour profile won't help you at all. After all, what are you trying to match colours to? An incorrect in-camera engine? You won't be able to come up with a single UFraw setting that gives you an accurate result for every picture you take. Each picture taken under different circumstances will require completely different settings in UFraw to get the look you want. After all, what's the point of trying to match your camera's JPG files? Aren't you developping RAW files to end up with BETTER results than your camera's JPGs?

edit: I tried the same futile exercise back when I first got my K-7. I quickly realized that the effort was pointless, and all a "colour profile" did was make things more complicated. I use UFraw to get the picture to look like I imagined it would when I was taking the shot. Not to colour-match nature.

edit edit: Here's a link to my earlier futile exercises.
03-04-2010, 12:48 PM   #9
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Thanks for your pointer... Maybe you are right -- I should stop my search for the holy grail!
03-04-2010, 03:22 PM   #10
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I don't know if UFRaw outputs are subject to quite the same problems, but when I was using dcraw in a script, I was never happy with tonality or colors until I hit the files with some extra saturation, sigmoidal contrast, and local contrast enhancement.

Here's what I settled on (using imagemagick on 16-bit TIF files coming out of dcraw):

convert "$tifname" -depth 16 -gamma 2.2 -modulate 100,105,100 -sigmoidal-contrast 5.0x35% -unsharp 0x40.0+0.2+0.0 -depth 8 -quality 85 "$jpegname"

I still hand-process and fine-tune my keepers, but I run this dcraw+imagemagick combo on everything else (the "shoebox" photos that I just keep around).

Here's the old thread where I talk about the script:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-processing-printing-software-darkroo...rocessing.html

. . . it's for K20D, but probably easily tuned for K-7.
03-08-2010, 07:45 PM   #11
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If you like the way the in-camera jpegs come out, why don't you just use those instead of going through all the hassle of raw conversion to get the same result.

The whole point of raw is to allow you to achieve a result that the in-camera processing cannot provide, or give flexibility in processing various images. If you're just trying to get the same result out of ufraw that you get with the camera you are really just wasting time. Go out and shoot more.

I would suggest that if you want to shoot raw, skip the in-camera processing and do your raw processing to achieve a result that is pleasing to you.

Now one could make a strong argument that a great reason to do a comparison is to allow you to learn how all the different settings in ufraw affect the image. In this case the comparison is a tool to help you understand the process.
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