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04-24-2016, 05:44 AM   #1
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DxO Optics Pro - Cheap

Would like to try it but don't want to spend a lot. I am not having any luck downloading the trial version. Anyone know where I could get it on sale? I am not finding too many options just doing google search.

Thanks,

7.62lew

04-24-2016, 04:32 PM   #2
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Around the end of the year you can usually get it for half price.
04-24-2016, 05:29 PM   #3
Des
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As Uncle Vanya says it is regularly on sale in Nov/Dec. Sometimes they offer it at other times too, and in the last couple of years B&H and Adorama have had sales on the boxed editions. Keep an eye on this forum: Pentax Price Watch - PentaxForums.com

I've used DxO OP (and ViewPoint) for a couple of years and like both. You need the Elite version for some of the key functions. Version 10 is a big improvement on v.9. It's easy to use and the profiles are great if your camera/lens combination is supported.

Don't know why you've had trouble with downloading the trial version. (It's here - Powerful RAW Image Correction | DxO OpticsPro | www.dxo.com, but you probably know that.) Maybe the server is busy? It's worth persisting.

People tend to stick to a processing programs once they have selected one. Not a bad idea to try a few (Lightroom, CaptureOne, etc) before settling on one.
04-25-2016, 01:42 PM   #4
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Thanks for the replies. I did finally get the download to work for the trial. So far I like what I am seeing. I like the default processing and the interface. Seems a little more user friendly that the silky pix that came with the camera.

I will let this thread run for a while and if anyone sees the DxO go on sale, PM me or post here.

04-25-2016, 04:56 PM   #5
Des
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QuoteOriginally posted by 7.62lew Quote
Thanks for the replies. I did finally get the download to work for the trial. So far I like what I am seeing. I like the default processing and the interface. Seems a little more user friendly that the silky pix that came with the camera.

I will let this thread run for a while and if anyone sees the DxO go on sale, PM me or post here.
Will try to remember to do so.

Just a couple of tips (just my experience only - don't treat as gospel):
1. Clearview is great but mostly needs a light touch. I ramp it up above 50% for sunrises/sunsets or where there is a lot of haze, but otherwise stay around 25%. I generally prefer it off for portraits.
2. I try to adjust exposure first. For outdoor shots, I generally use strong highlight priority, then bring up the midtones and shadows. SmartLighting can give the effect of fill flash, and Slight-Medium is usually a good start. By default I set blacks to -5 to -10 (for a more contrasty effect), highlights to -15 (sometimes higher if the histogram is pushing to the right) and midtones and shadows to +10. Shadows often need to be raised quite a lot more (e.g. to +50).
3. Contrast depends on the situation. If there is a high dynamic range in the photo, sometimes it helps to reduce the contrast a lot (the HDR presets do this). For portraits, reduce microcontrast (most of the portrait presets do this). Increased microcontrast helps in most other situations.
4. I find that my cameras do quite well with Auto White Balance. Unless the WB is plainly wrong, leave it alone until you get more familiar with it. If one colour needs adjustment (e.g. Uncle Fred's red cheeks), try changing that colour channel in HSL. (To remove red cheeks often means increasing the lightness and reducing saturation in the Red channel.) On the subject of saturation, I usually turn saturation down a little and vibrancy up (e.g. -5 to -10 and +10 to +15 respectively).
5. Use Prime NR all the time if possible. It takes longer to process but it's worth it.
6. If your lens/camera combination is supported, use the DxO Lens Softness adjustments for sharpening, rather than Unsharp mask. If it isn't you are left with Unsharp, which often produces artefacts.
7. CA adjustment by default is OK, but doesn't always get rid of purple fringing. (I haven't yet worked out how to improve on this manually.)
8. DxO lacks redeye reduction. I use Picasa on the jpgs. For eye-shine that isn't redeye, the only tool in DxO seems to be the dust remover; it's ok for animal eyes, although a blunt instrument.
9. The dust removal tool works really well on dust spots. If you have a batch of photos with the same dust spot, you can make the correction on one photo and copy/paste the setting to the others (or create a preset).
10. If using a wideangle lens, ViewPoint is great. (It's now integrated into OP; in previous editions you had to use it separately).
11. I'm thinking of getting FilmPack, not just for the presets but for Split Toning.
12. DxO doesn't have the user or support base of Lightroom, but there are some good tutorials on the DxO web site.

Enjoy.

Last edited by Des; 04-25-2016 at 05:03 PM.
04-27-2016, 02:35 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Des Quote
Will try to remember to do so.

Just a couple of tips (just my experience only - don't treat as gospel):
1. Clearview is great but mostly needs a light touch. I ramp it up above 50% for sunrises/sunsets or where there is a lot of haze, but otherwise stay around 25%. I generally prefer it off for portraits.
2. I try to adjust exposure first. For outdoor shots, I generally use strong highlight priority, then bring up the midtones and shadows. SmartLighting can give the effect of fill flash, and Slight-Medium is usually a good start. By default I set blacks to -5 to -10 (for a more contrasty effect), highlights to -15 (sometimes higher if the histogram is pushing to the right) and midtones and shadows to +10. Shadows often need to be raised quite a lot more (e.g. to +50).
3. Contrast depends on the situation. If there is a high dynamic range in the photo, sometimes it helps to reduce the contrast a lot (the HDR presets do this). For portraits, reduce microcontrast (most of the portrait presets do this). Increased microcontrast helps in most other situations.
4. I find that my cameras do quite well with Auto White Balance. Unless the WB is plainly wrong, leave it alone until you get more familiar with it. If one colour needs adjustment (e.g. Uncle Fred's red cheeks), try changing that colour channel in HSL. (To remove red cheeks often means increasing the lightness and reducing saturation in the Red channel.) On the subject of saturation, I usually turn saturation down a little and vibrancy up (e.g. -5 to -10 and +10 to +15 respectively).
5. Use Prime NR all the time if possible. It takes longer to process but it's worth it.
6. If your lens/camera combination is supported, use the DxO Lens Softness adjustments for sharpening, rather than Unsharp mask. If it isn't you are left with Unsharp, which often produces artefacts.
7. CA adjustment by default is OK, but doesn't always get rid of purple fringing. (I haven't yet worked out how to improve on this manually.)
8. DxO lacks redeye reduction. I use Picasa on the jpgs. For eye-shine that isn't redeye, the only tool in DxO seems to be the dust remover; it's ok for animal eyes, although a blunt instrument.
9. The dust removal tool works really well on dust spots. If you have a batch of photos with the same dust spot, you can make the correction on one photo and copy/paste the setting to the others (or create a preset).
10. If using a wideangle lens, ViewPoint is great. (It's now integrated into OP; in previous editions you had to use it separately).
11. I'm thinking of getting FilmPack, not just for the presets but for Split Toning.
12. DxO doesn't have the user or support base of Lightroom, but there are some good tutorials on the DxO web site.

Enjoy.
Thanks helping me out with the info Des!

I will keep coming back to your tips as I run through the trial period. I have not tried lightroom. Basically been trying free stuff. I like the interface on lightzone, but the default processing doesn't look too good to me. I don't get in too deep, so if presets can get me to the processing I want, I am there! I use gimp also to finish up pics, but have only scratched the surface.
04-27-2016, 03:21 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by 7.62lew Quote
Basically been trying free stuff. I like the interface on lightzone, but the default processing doesn't look too good to me. I don't get in too deep, so if presets can get me to the processing I want, I am there!
Amongst the free prgrams DarkTable has a lot of followers. (I don't know, never tried it.)

There is also a program called Pentax Digital Camera Utility that is supplied with recent Pentax models. It's based on Silkypix but has a very different layout. It's special trick is that it can use the jpg presets from Pentax cameras (Natural, Bright, Portrait, Pets, etc etc) on any RAW file from a Pentax camera (even from my old K100D Super). It can also apply automatic correction for CA, distortion, vignetting, etc on photos taken with DA, DFA and some FA lenses. It can do plenty else too, but if you want simplicity (and free) that's pretty good. Pentax DCU can be downloaded for free; there is a simple trick to installing it. Search for the thread here that describes how to do it.

For all that, I much prefer DxO OP and I think it's worth paying for. Its special tricks are the auto-correction for lens/camera profiles, ClearView, Prime noise reduction and ViewPoint (although of course other advanced programs have corresponding features). It's good for quick processing of a batch of files, although it can do much more than that.

For a while I used Silkypix and then finished editing in DxO, but as I got to know DxO OP better I just use that now.
 

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