[beer_nuts]

how does one set up the shot to get shots like this?

i know a tripod is needed and an extended exposure time, but everytime i try it i get horrendously over exposed images, most of the time completely white, even when i've turned to exposure meter thing down as far as possible.

my camera is taking up way too much light.

btw camera is a k-x.

thnx!!!

[ChooseAName]

Set exposure compensation way down, set aperture f stop way up. Make sure to manually set the ISO to 100. I believe neutral density filters will help you get a properly exposed water picture, if you want the kind of result you posted.

All that, and maybe try shooting in the evening when there is less ambient light.

[Tamia]

You need to use a polarizer or neutral density filter to prevent the blown highlights on long-exposure photos of flowing water unless the light levels are very low, as on a thickly overcast day or in deep woods or at night. The filter used is determined in part by the exposure time and the light levels. I wrote about techniques for long exposure water shots in "You Don't Have to Go With the Flow!" It's a pretty basic article intended for novice photographers, but it might help you get the kinds of shots you're hoping for.

[beer_nuts]

THNX!!!! as it happens i've just ordered a polarizing filter any way for a bit more saturation in my photos..

do the same techniques apply for seascapes?

like this

[Tamia]

You're welcome! I have no experience shooting seascapes like this (beautiful picture, btw), but imagine that the same principles apply. The problem is that water reflects light and can overwhelm the image after only a few seconds. So, the way to deal with that is to tone down that water's brightness, therefore the polarizer and ND filters. A polarizer isn't enough on very bright days if you want very long exposures, and that's when the ND filters come in. I read an interesting technique called a poor man's ND, BTW. Put a circular polarizer on your lens (assuming it's a digital camera), then put on a second polarizer (it can be a linear one). Linear polarizers can be had cheap, and by rotating the outer ring you can alter the amount of light filtering through even more than with a single polarizer. I've never tried it, but it might be worth a go.

[MRRiley]

You're welcome! I have no experience shooting seascapes like this (beautiful picture, btw), but imagine that the same principles apply. The problem is that water reflects light and can overwhelm the image after only a few seconds. So, the way to deal with that is to tone down that water's brightness, therefore the polarizer and ND filters. A polarizer isn't enough on very bright days if you want very long exposures, and that's when the ND filters come in. I read an interesting technique called a poor man's ND, BTW. Put a circular polarizer on your lens (assuming it's a digital camera), then put on a second polarizer (it can be a linear one). Linear polarizers can be had cheap, and by rotating the outer ring you can alter the amount of light filtering through even more than with a single polarizer. I've never tried it, but it might be worth a go.

The double polarizer gimmick works, but will almost always introduce some weird coloring (sort of a funky IR look) so it's best if you are planning to convert to B&W. I used the method to shoot this shot...



Shot in full mid-day sun with doubled polarizers. Pentax K110D, DA18-55mm, 4 Sec, f22 at 18mm, desaturated and converted to greyscale.

Mike

[Marc Sabatella]

how does one set up the shot to get shots like this?

i know a tripod is needed and an extended exposure time, but everytime i try it i get horrendously over exposed images, most of the time completely white, even when i've turned to exposure meter thing down as far as possible.

If you're getting an overexposed picture, you are doing something very wrong. Not sure what you mean when you say you've turned the "exposure meter thing" down as far as possible, but it seems likely that whatever you did translated into asking the camera to use for a brighter exposure than the default, not asking it to use a slower shutter speed at the default exposure.

So as is usually the case, you need to start with a basic understanding of exposure. This is no different than in any other shooting situation - it's all about the relationship between shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. If you want to increase shutter speed, you need to reduce ISO and/or decrease aperture by a corresponding amount. If you turn down the ISO as low as it goes (and turn off any features that artificially restrict your ability to lower ISO), stop down the lens as far as it goes, and let the camera select an appropriate shutter speed, you should get a correct exposure. Whether the shutter speed will be as slow as you want is another matter, but again, if you're getting an overexposed picture, you're doing something wrong.

Once you correctly set the lowest ISO and smallest aperture and get the camera to choose an appropriate shutter speed, and get a good exposure but still not slow enough shutter speed to get the effect you want, *then* you can worry about filters to cut down on the light.

[Ash]

Marc's said it - the basics are required. Understand the exposure triad, and you'll come a long way to appreciating how these images are captured.

A single polarising filter will not be enough to create this effect in a fully sunlit scene - a neutral density filter will be essential. In the late afternoon sun, however, the polarising filter with the camera set on a high aperture and low ISO may just work out for you. Ultimately you have to be cognisant of the effect of your settings on shutter speed to get your intended result.

Of course, having a polarising filter will be highly advantageous for ocean and still water captures since they eliminate much of the reflective glare that wash out the water's surface in images.

[mysticcowboy]

Yes the same technique applies to seascapes as river water. I use both a 3 stop ND filter and a polarizer for bright light. Just ordered a 2 stop ND for really long exposures.

[GatorPentax]

definitely need an ND filter, maybe even an ND and Polarizer. You can fiddle with the settings such as having a high aperture and low ISO but you have to remember that a len's sweet spot may be at f/4 - f/8 so setting a lens at f/22 may result in soft ugly images.

The following shot was with my K10d and Vivitar series 1 70-210mm (kiron) at 210mm, thread size is 67mm. I have a Hoya ND 8 on this lens. ISO 100mm and shot in late afternoon while the sun is setting, I can't remember the aperture setting.



I can't remember the specifics with this pic but i'm sure it was similar to the last. Same lens.

[Talisker]

For the sort of effects you illustrating you are looking at ND filters - and if its full daylight you're looking at 6 or 10 stop filters. Not only will these give you exposures potentially into tens of seconds, but they also give you more creative control over the aperture you use. You may want a long exposure but a shallow depth of field. Also, if you have to stop right down to f16 or f22 the image sharpness will likley fall off as the lens reaches its difrraction limit, all other things being equal (good tripod, mirror lock up to reduce vibration etc). As others have said, if the image is over exposed, well, its over exposed, and you can do that whatever filters you use (I have the T-shirt etc...)
Image below used 10 stop ND + 2 stop ND hard grad

[beer_nuts]

well by exposure thing i meant the EV dial...sry

i had ISO on 100, shutter speed on 1 second, and aperture the narrowest possible.
was still getting horribly over expsoed images....

[GatorPentax]

thats probably because of the sunlight. There really is no way to get around that w/o ND grads. Try again at dusk/dawn or when its extremely cloudy outside.

Notice in all the pictures posted here, it is never mid day when the sun is the brightest, they are all when the sun is setting.

Also, i noticed that the picture you posted probably utilized HDR photography. Which is taking several photos at different exposure times and blending them all together to get the best hightlights throughout the picture.

[Tamia]

The double polarizer gimmick works, but will almost always introduce some weird coloring (sort of a funky IR look) so it's best if you are planning to convert to B&W....

I like that shot, Mike. Thanks for confirming that the polarizer stacking works -- up to a point.

[adwb]

definitely need an ND filter, maybe even an ND and Polariser. You can fiddle with the settings such as having a high aperture and low ISO but you have to remember that a len's sweet spot may be at f/4 - f/8 so setting a lens at f/22 may result in soft ugly images.
The following shot was with my K10d and Vivitar series 1 70-210mm (kiron) at 210mm, thread size is 67mm. I have a Hoya ND 8 on this lens. ISO 100mm and shot in late afternoon while the sun is setting, I can't remember the aperture setting.
I can't remember the specifics with this pic but I'm sure it was similar to the last. Same lens.

Both very very nice images, I can't believe the bird stayed still long enough for the
exposure time. I see you have a K10d have you tried the multiple exposure setting to get the same effect or a combination of filter and multiple exposure?
I ask as It had occurred to me the other day it was a ideal way of effectively reducing the speed.
To the original poster I am not familiar with the Kx but does it not have multiple exposure setting available?
Alistair