[rustynail925]

After stitching i notice that the exif has been removed. Is there a way to get the Exif intact?

[simico]

After a LOT of playing with Hugin, I managed to get this using the automatic stitch feature.

You original frames must have huge distortion and pretty small overlap. Did you take those at the widest end of a zoom lens (e.g. 18mm on kit lens, etc)? If yes then it would be better to first correct the barrel distortion of the images before feeding them to Hugin, and in the future either use a good prime lens or use a focal length on your zoom where distortion is much less (e.g. around 24-35mm) or shoot with more overlap (if I use the 17mm end of my 17-70 then I'm shooting the frames with 30-50% overlap).

Why waste your time with so-so programs when Adobe Photoshop CS5 does a stellar job.

Why blame the software for user error?

[Tim_R]

Why waste your time with so-so programs when Adobe Photoshop CS5 does a stellar job.

1) CS5 (4, 3, 2, etc) does NOT run in Linux.

2) PS7 runs fine in Crossover Linux, but has no option to process RAW files, and stitching frames together is not particularly simple.

3) Running Windows in a VM is not an option as I don't own a copy of Windows, nor can I spring for the going in price of CS5. I am on SS and have little I can invest in such things.

Such a shame that my $290 Nikon P80 can do the whole thing (limited to one row) IN CAMERA, and the joins are virtually invisible.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Tim

[Tim_R]

You original frames must have huge distortion and pretty small overlap. Did you take those at the widest end of a zoom lens (e.g. 18mm on kit lens, etc)? If yes then it would be better to first correct the barrel distortion of the images before feeding them to Hugin, and in the future either use a good prime lens or use a focal length on your zoom where distortion is much less (e.g. around 24-35mm) or shoot with more overlap (if I use the 17mm end of my 17-70 then I'm shooting the frames with 30-50% overlap).

The original frames were shot with my Pentax 40mm f2.8 pancake lens and I made sure to have about 25-30% overlap. The tripod had been leveled in both axes to ensure the horizon didn't move vertically or tilt while panning. Frames were shot with SR off and using the 2sec delay with IR remote trigger to get the most stable images possible.

I'm just going to have to learn to use my copy of PS7 to merge the images by hand, I guess.

Tim

[simico]

The original frames were shot with my Pentax 40mm f2.8 pancake lens and I made sure to have about 25-30% overlap. The tripod had been leveled in both axes to ensure the horizon didn't move vertically or tilt while panning. Frames were shot with SR off and using the 2sec delay with IR remote trigger to get the most stable images possible.

I'm just going to have to learn to use my copy of PS7 to merge the images by hand, I guess.

Tim

Very strange. Would you mind sending me the originals so I can check & try it on my pc? Just pm me.

If Hugin and Autopano-shift-c (comes in separate package due to some US export whatever regulation) is installed correctly and the images has EXIF intact (to get the focal length and exposure info) then it's really just a matter of selecting the image files, (wait a bit for auto stitching), confirm panorama preview and/or make changes if necessary, save the result. This is really just 3 mouse clicks most of the time.
I created this 180 degree panorama from more than 20 frames with 3 mouse clicks in Hugin, original frames were shot handheld at 17mm and just turning my body with ~40% overlap (some frames were a little blurry because I almost fell off the tower while turning my body and shooting).

[ozzi-paul]

30% overlap should be a minimum, 50% is much better and produces a much better final image. I use CS 5 and its great at stitching which is good because half the time I don't use a tripod, only use it If I want to try and make a perfect pano. The latest version of Elements should be able to stitch ok and is pretty cheap, might be worth a look.