[JMLang]

Just got my K10D, so far using it with my old 28-105 powerzoom (and I thought the powerzoom features were worthless *before*...). Anyway, I've been fairly impressed with the zoom range at the long end with the 1.5X crop, so I'm considering trying to get a matching 100-300 I'd always wanted (hopefully without powerzoom...).

The lunar eclipse (yawn) got me thinking, what does it take to safely take solar photos? 450mm (300 w/crop) should be a pretty good range, right? But what do I have to shoot through to not burn out my eyes or the optics?

Are there special filters just for shooting the sun, and do they also apply to solar eclipses, if I'm ever lucky enough to be able to shoot a total one? Or do I just need a lot of ND in front of the lens...? Would two circular polarizers rotated for maximum darkness be enough?

[stewart_photo]

I suggust you check out this NASA website...

NASA - Solar Eclipse Photography

It talks about suggested focal lengths and what filters to use before, during, and after the total phase. It also provides an exposure guide, a link to a list of solar filter manufacturers, and links to other related websites. The website discusses film, but virtually all else applies equally to digital. Pay particular attention to the eye safety tips on the linked to filter page.

And, no, neither neutral density or circular polarizing filters will be enough, at least not if your eyes are valued. A filter for this purpose will contain a thin layer of aluminum, chromium, or silver to attenuate ultraviolet, visible, and infrared energy. In other words, only a filter specifically designed for this purpose should be used.

stewart

[MJB DIGITAL]

kick ass!

this is the most awesome post i have seen on the internet in a while.

i have never thought solar photography to be possible (never thought it was impossible, just never thought of it)

now we have some links to nasa....

thanks to both of you guys

mitch

[Jonson PL]

Thanks for link, I'll have a read through as well

[Portland Pete]

The lunar eclipse (yawn) got me thinking, what does it take to safely take solar photos? 450mm (300 w/crop) should be a pretty good range, right? But what do I have to shoot through to not burn out my eyes or the optics?

Are there special filters just for shooting the sun, and do they also apply to solar eclipses, if I'm ever lucky enough to be able to shoot a total one? Or do I just need a lot of ND in front of the lens...? Would two circular polarizers rotated for maximum darkness be enough?

I was just thinking the same thing today and came up with this thread on a search. I was thinking about the ND, and just stopping down a lot. I was planning on using a plain, white 3x5 card behind the viewfinder for composition. Its an old trick I learned for telescopes in High School science.

I suggust you check out this NASA website...

NASA - Solar Eclipse Photography

And, no, neither neutral density or circular polarizing filters will be enough, at least not if your eyes are valued. A filter for this purpose will contain a thin layer of aluminum, chromium, or silver to attenuate ultraviolet, visible, and infrared energy. In other words, only a filter specifically designed for this purpose should be used.

stewart

Great website. I was planning on playing around with the sun outside of eclipses, so I'll need to do a little trial and error but this is a great starting point. I'll post some results as my experimentation progresses. Has anyone else out there done this kind of work?

I was thinking of using a 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 with a 2x teleconverter, on both my K10d and PZ-1. That should get me in the ballpark with the Nasa recommendations, 600mm film and about 900mm digital equivalent. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

[WerTicus]

In other words, only a filter specifically designed for this purpose should be used.
stewart

+1


yeah dont mess around with this!

[wildlifephotog]

It's easy to take solar shots. Just get a piece of Baader solar film and build a filter for your lens. You can then use the VF like always. There will be no worries with hurting your eyes or camera. I use it on an 8" scope to visually observe the sun, and take photos.
These were taken with Baader solar film. I did goof on the white balance though.

[wildlifephotog]

It is also possible to take shots with no filter near the horizon. This was from the 2004 transit of Venus. I used 1000mm lens and a K1000, with 400 speed film.
You will tend to get more distortion near the horizon though.

[Ex Finn.]

Yes, thanks for the link, it is now my latest bookmark.
Coronado filters have some nice looking solar stuff.

Coronado Solar Filters and Telescopes to Safely Observe the Sun

Pricey but eyesight is very valuable.
Might try this sometime.

Cheers, Mike.

[Portland Pete]

A lot of really great input. Thanks!

[wildlifephotog]

Baader film is not that expensive. You could make a couple of filters for lenses out of the sheet sold here.
Baader AstroSolar Safety Film, Visual (ND5), Small, A4 Sheet (7.9"x11.8") $29.00, Baader Planetarium ASOLV-S,Telescope Accessories Accessories, Best

[Ben_Edict]

I was just thinking the same thing today and came up with this thread on a search. I was thinking about the ND, and just stopping down a lot. I was planning on using a plain, white 3x5 card behind the viewfinder for composition. Its an old trick I learned for telescopes in High School science.

That sun projection works with telescopes, BUT not with cameras. With a scope, you can actually focus the projected image on the white card - but you can't do that with the camera via the viewfinder. The focused images lies within the viewfinder on the matte screen.

You should use Baader Astro Solar foil. It is the best, it is cheap and readily available. During the Sun's more occulted phases you actually do not need the foil at all, but during the partial phases it is necessary.

As wildlifephotog, I have imaged the Venus transit with the Baader foil in front of my scope and the other example is also taken through the foil. Its influence on image quality is near nill.

Ben

[Portland Pete]

That sun projection works with telescopes, BUT not with cameras. With a scope, you can actually focus the projected image on the white card - but you can't do that with the camera via the viewfinder. The focused images lies within the viewfinder on the matte screen.

Ben

Yes! Of course! I don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks for the reminder, it saved what would have likely been hours of frustration.

[fisheye freak]

Avoid zoom lenses if possible. As you are photographing directly at the sun, internal reflections through additional elements will be an issue. 300-600mm lens on digital is what you need to start. Baader solar film or the Seymour film is good to begin with. Be absolutely certain it is well attached - if it comes loose you can damage your eyes permanently and will destroy your sensor. A telescope is best to take photos, but a pain to set up the rig. Telescopes often have rather large apertures , few elements and long focal lengths. My larger scope(which is by no means large) has a focal length of 2500mm f/10, which can be altered to an f/3.3 825mm configuration. How many affordable camera lenses can boast these specifications? If using a telescope, be sure to cover or filter the finderscope. The heat will melt the reticle and there is potential to be burned by the finderscope. For the 2004 Transit of Venus, I encountered an episode of unbelievable stupidity. I had a glove over the finderscope of my telescope for the above reasons and although I was allowing anyone interested to view the transit through the telescope, this random Chinese tourist comes over, removes the glove(without asking) and was about to stick his eye to the finderscope when I pushed him out of the way. Idiot then proceeded to swear at me in Chinese- this goose was less than 1 second away from blinding himself. You can outlaw dishonesty, but you cannot outlaw stupidity.