ISO Terminology

music_lover · 09-21-2010, 05:41 PM

fine it's removeD

try to help those less expereinced. NO, that's not possible.
I.m going to be be buying me a Nikon anyway.

Last edited by music_lover; 09-21-2010 at 09:22 PM.

innershell · 09-21-2010, 05:54 PM

That's not bad of a starting point. In reality, there's a more scientific/numeric basis for these numbers based on sensitivity of light.

Ratmagiclady · 09-21-2010, 05:57 PM

Originally posted by music_lover

I Learned a few things in Photo Class in High School, good for those who don't know what each number represents:
iso 100 outside, bright sunshine
iso 200 sunny to partly cloudy (i hope that was right)
iso 400 partly cloudy to cloudy
iso 800 cloudy or in the shade
iso 1600 night with plenty of light
iso 3200 night and available light
iso 6400 not quite pitch black
iso 12800 candlelight ( ihope that one was right)

anybody know these different from me, and please let's keep under wraps on the subject, please

It's not a terribly-bad set of guidelines, but it'd be as well to pay attention to the relationship between your shutter speed and aperture and sensitivity, as well as where your particular camera or film performs well.

You'll learn where the tradeoffs are, as you progress. You'll likely find that you needn't be so specific, and that your choice of ISO setting won't be confined to very particular conditions, so much as what you're doing.

(They're likely to move this thread, btw,)

music_lover · 09-21-2010, 06:02 PM

Originally posted by innershell

That's not bad of a starting point. In reality, there's a more scientific/numeric basis for these numbers based on sensitivity of light.

yes I am aware of those, but don't think it needs mentioning here, could post it though

SpecialK · 09-21-2010, 06:11 PM

Originally posted by music_lover

I Learned a few things in Photo Class in High School, good for those who don't know what each number represents:
iso 100 outside, bright sunshine
iso 200 sunny to partly cloudy (i hope that was right)
iso 400 partly cloudy to cloudy
iso 800 cloudy or in the shade
iso 1600 night with plenty of light
iso 3200 night and available light
iso 6400 not quite pitch black
iso 12800 candlelight ( ihope that one was right)

anybody know these different from me, and please let's keep under wraps on the subject, please

That gets a C+. There's more to it than that. You might just want more or less depth of focus or higher or slower shutter speeds.

**ManuH** · 09-21-2010, 06:22 PM

Originally posted by music_lover

I Learned a few things in Photo Class in High School, good for those who don't know what each number represents:
iso 100 outside, bright sunshine
iso 200 sunny to partly cloudy (i hope that was right)
iso 400 partly cloudy to cloudy
iso 800 cloudy or in the shade
iso 1600 night with plenty of light
iso 3200 night and available light
iso 6400 not quite pitch black
iso 12800 candlelight ( ihope that one was right)

That's bad, you cannot isolate ISO like that without knowing shutter speed and aperture. This table is extremely misleading IMHO. It's better to learn about EV (Exposure Value). At least 2 links are useful:

Exposure value - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Exposure: Exposure: Glossary: Learn: Digital Photography Review

brofkand · 09-21-2010, 06:24 PM

There's definitely more to it than ambient lighting conditions, but I think it's a good rule of thumb for absolute beginners.

I tend to recommend beginners shy away from Auto modes (ISO, Program, even Av or Tv) until they understand why these modes choose the settings they do.

Start with Manual. Set your ISO, white balance, Aperture, and Shutter Speed based on what you think is right for the scene. Take a test shot, then adjust.

brofkand · 09-21-2010, 06:25 PM

Originally posted by ManuH

That's bad, you cannot isolate ISO like that without knowing shutter speed and aperture. This table is extremely misleading IMHO. It's better to learn about EV (Exposure Value). At least 2 links are useful:

Exposure value - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Exposure: Exposure: Glossary: Learn: Digital Photography Review

If you shoot film, why do you choose a specific ISO for the roll you put in the camera? You choose it because you'll be shooting in a dark place, or noon-day sun, etc. At least I do.

Why should it be any different with digital, just because you can change ISO shot to shot instead of roll to roll?

junyo · 09-21-2010, 06:29 PM

Try reading this.

Eruditass · 09-21-2010, 06:32 PM

64 and 128 should be switched..

music_lover · 09-21-2010, 06:40 PM

Originally posted by brofkand

There's definitely more to it than ambient lighting conditions, but I think it's a good rule of thumb for absolute beginners.

I tend to recommend beginners shy away from Auto modes (ISO, Program, even Av or Tv) until they understand why these modes choose the settings they do.

Start with Manual. Set your ISO, white balance, Aperture, and Shutter Speed based on what you think is right for the scene. Take a test shot, then adjust.

that's what it say at the beginning of thread, FOR THOSE THAT DON'T KNOW

knoxploration · 09-21-2010, 07:45 PM

Originally posted by music_lover

This is meant for beginners who are not sure what ISO reppresents. It represents film speed in sort of a way that must be used in conjunction with Aperature Value and Shiutter Speeds. This is good for those who don't know what each number represents:
iso 100 outside, bright sunshine
iso 200 sunny to partly cloudy (i hope that was right)
iso 400 partly cloudy to cloudy
iso 800 cloudy or in the shade
iso 1600 night with plenty of light
iso 3200 night and available light
iso 6400 not quite pitch black
iso 12800 candlelight ( ihope that one was right)

anybody know these different from me, and please let's keep under wraps on the subject, please

I think you've posted in the wrong forum, as this isn't related to news or rumors. You might want to PM a mod and ask them to move it for you.

**ManuH** · 09-22-2010, 06:08 AM

Originally posted by brofkand

If you shoot film, why do you choose a specific ISO for the roll you put in the camera? You choose it because you'll be shooting in a dark place, or noon-day sun, etc. At least I do.

Maybe but the OP's list is useless. You will gather more light with a f/2 prime than a f/5.6 zoom. Up to 3 stops, so this list is totally misleading IMHO. Even for a complete novice that's not good at all and may imprint bad habits.

The best way is to learn the really simple relationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO. At the beginning it's even better to skip ISO and handle just shutter speed and aperture.

Ishpuini · 09-22-2010, 07:31 AM

Isn't what you're telling us here just an extension of the old "sunny 16" rule?

I.e. set f/16 and 1/100s for a ISO100 roll in bright sun light and you don't need metering. So what you're writing here applies to what ISO you need to set the camera in which light situations so that 1/100s and f/16 will yield acceptably correct exposure.

Whereas this used to be a good rule for camera's without a meter, or when you want to ignore the meter and work manual, but I don't think it stands for application in a modern camera...

It's kinda like a full manual TAv mode... Quite useless...

Wim

gazonk · 09-22-2010, 07:38 AM

Originally posted by Ishpuini

Isn't what you're telling us here just an extension of the old "sunny 16" rule?

Film rolls used to have indications for proper exposure in sun and shadow. I actually used those guidelines once with my LX

(it ran out of battery, but the LX shutter could operate fully mechanically at faster shutter speeds)

09-21-2010, 05:41 PM	#1
music_lover Guest	ISO Terminology fine it's removeD try to help those less expereinced. NO, that's not possible. I.m going to be be buying me a Nikon anyway. Last edited by music_lover; 09-21-2010 at 09:22 PM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
terminology: hyper-program vs hyper-manual	WMBP	Pentax DSLR Discussion	18	03-25-2009 04:33 PM
Terminology Question	DisneydaveCT	Photographic Technique	4	09-27-2008 02:12 AM
Can someone break it down for me? A Coles notes on terminology etc?	Gadget_Guy	Photographic Technique	9	08-03-2008 10:16 AM
terminology question	NaClH2O	Pentax SLR Lens Discussion	9	12-01-2007 01:02 PM
Tests iso 200 to iso 3200 with k100d	Deni	Post Your Photos!	0	06-20-2007 05:17 AM

09-21-2010, 05:54 PM	#2
innershell Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada Posts: 408	That's not bad of a starting point. In reality, there's a more scientific/numeric basis for these numbers based on sensitivity of light.

09-21-2010, 05:57 PM	#3
Ratmagiclady Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: GA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 13,563	Originally posted by music_lover I Learned a few things in Photo Class in High School, good for those who don't know what each number represents: iso 100 outside, bright sunshine iso 200 sunny to partly cloudy (i hope that was right) iso 400 partly cloudy to cloudy iso 800 cloudy or in the shade iso 1600 night with plenty of light iso 3200 night and available light iso 6400 not quite pitch black iso 12800 candlelight ( ihope that one was right) anybody know these different from me, and please let's keep under wraps on the subject, please It's not a terribly-bad set of guidelines, but it'd be as well to pay attention to the relationship between your shutter speed and aperture and sensitivity, as well as where your particular camera or film performs well. You'll learn where the tradeoffs are, as you progress. You'll likely find that you needn't be so specific, and that your choice of ISO setting won't be confined to very particular conditions, so much as what you're doing. (They're likely to move this thread, btw,)

09-21-2010, 06:02 PM	#4
music_lover Guest	Originally posted by innershell That's not bad of a starting point. In reality, there's a more scientific/numeric basis for these numbers based on sensitivity of light. yes I am aware of those, but don't think it needs mentioning here, could post it though

09-21-2010, 06:11 PM	#5
SpecialK Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: So California Photos: Gallery Posts: 16,481	Originally posted by music_lover I Learned a few things in Photo Class in High School, good for those who don't know what each number represents: iso 100 outside, bright sunshine iso 200 sunny to partly cloudy (i hope that was right) iso 400 partly cloudy to cloudy iso 800 cloudy or in the shade iso 1600 night with plenty of light iso 3200 night and available light iso 6400 not quite pitch black iso 12800 candlelight ( ihope that one was right) anybody know these different from me, and please let's keep under wraps on the subject, please That gets a C+. There's more to it than that. You might just want more or less depth of focus or higher or slower shutter speeds.

09-21-2010, 06:22 PM	#6
ManuH Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Montreal Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,249	Originally posted by music_lover I Learned a few things in Photo Class in High School, good for those who don't know what each number represents: iso 100 outside, bright sunshine iso 200 sunny to partly cloudy (i hope that was right) iso 400 partly cloudy to cloudy iso 800 cloudy or in the shade iso 1600 night with plenty of light iso 3200 night and available light iso 6400 not quite pitch black iso 12800 candlelight ( ihope that one was right) That's bad, you cannot isolate ISO like that without knowing shutter speed and aperture. This table is extremely misleading IMHO. It's better to learn about EV (Exposure Value). At least 2 links are useful: Exposure value - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Exposure: Exposure: Glossary: Learn: Digital Photography Review

09-21-2010, 06:24 PM	#7
brofkand Pentaxian Join Date: May 2009 Location: North Carolina Posts: 836	There's definitely more to it than ambient lighting conditions, but I think it's a good rule of thumb for absolute beginners. I tend to recommend beginners shy away from Auto modes (ISO, Program, even Av or Tv) until they understand why these modes choose the settings they do. Start with Manual. Set your ISO, white balance, Aperture, and Shutter Speed based on what you think is right for the scene. Take a test shot, then adjust.

09-21-2010, 06:25 PM	#8
brofkand Pentaxian Join Date: May 2009 Location: North Carolina Posts: 836	Originally posted by ManuH That's bad, you cannot isolate ISO like that without knowing shutter speed and aperture. This table is extremely misleading IMHO. It's better to learn about EV (Exposure Value). At least 2 links are useful: Exposure value - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Exposure: Exposure: Glossary: Learn: Digital Photography Review If you shoot film, why do you choose a specific ISO for the roll you put in the camera? You choose it because you'll be shooting in a dark place, or noon-day sun, etc. At least I do. Why should it be any different with digital, just because you can change ISO shot to shot instead of roll to roll?

09-21-2010, 06:29 PM	#9
junyo Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Photos: Gallery Posts: 418	Try reading this.

09-21-2010, 06:32 PM	#10
Eruditass Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,207	64 and 128 should be switched..

09-21-2010, 06:40 PM	#11
music_lover Guest	Originally posted by brofkand There's definitely more to it than ambient lighting conditions, but I think it's a good rule of thumb for absolute beginners. I tend to recommend beginners shy away from Auto modes (ISO, Program, even Av or Tv) until they understand why these modes choose the settings they do. Start with Manual. Set your ISO, white balance, Aperture, and Shutter Speed based on what you think is right for the scene. Take a test shot, then adjust. that's what it say at the beginning of thread, FOR THOSE THAT DON'T KNOW

09-21-2010, 07:45 PM	#12
knoxploration Veteran Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Knoxville, Tennessee Posts: 846	Originally posted by music_lover This is meant for beginners who are not sure what ISO reppresents. It represents film speed in sort of a way that must be used in conjunction with Aperature Value and Shiutter Speeds. This is good for those who don't know what each number represents: iso 100 outside, bright sunshine iso 200 sunny to partly cloudy (i hope that was right) iso 400 partly cloudy to cloudy iso 800 cloudy or in the shade iso 1600 night with plenty of light iso 3200 night and available light iso 6400 not quite pitch black iso 12800 candlelight ( ihope that one was right) anybody know these different from me, and please let's keep under wraps on the subject, please I think you've posted in the wrong forum, as this isn't related to news or rumors. You might want to PM a mod and ask them to move it for you.

09-22-2010, 06:08 AM	#13
ManuH Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Montreal Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,249	Originally posted by brofkand If you shoot film, why do you choose a specific ISO for the roll you put in the camera? You choose it because you'll be shooting in a dark place, or noon-day sun, etc. At least I do. Maybe but the OP's list is useless. You will gather more light with a f/2 prime than a f/5.6 zoom. Up to 3 stops, so this list is totally misleading IMHO. Even for a complete novice that's not good at all and may imprint bad habits. The best way is to learn the really simple relationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO. At the beginning it's even better to skip ISO and handle just shutter speed and aperture.

09-22-2010, 07:31 AM	#14
Ishpuini Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Antwerp, Belgium Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,727	Isn't what you're telling us here just an extension of the old "sunny 16" rule? I.e. set f/16 and 1/100s for a ISO100 roll in bright sun light and you don't need metering. So what you're writing here applies to what ISO you need to set the camera in which light situations so that 1/100s and f/16 will yield acceptably correct exposure. Whereas this used to be a good rule for camera's without a meter, or when you want to ignore the meter and work manual, but I don't think it stands for application in a modern camera... It's kinda like a full manual TAv mode... Quite useless... Wim

09-22-2010, 07:38 AM	#15
gazonk Pentaxian Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Oslo area, Norway Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,746	Originally posted by Ishpuini Isn't what you're telling us here just an extension of the old "sunny 16" rule? Film rolls used to have indications for proper exposure in sun and shadow. I actually used those guidelines once with my LX (it ran out of battery, but the LX shutter could operate fully mechanically at faster shutter speeds)