[yusuf]

I recently acquired a Panagor Macro Converter and using it with 50mm f1.9 lens.

I am very comfortable with manual focusing and own a few MF lenses (as you can see from my signature). I also use split focusing screen for accurate focusing.

Now, problem is that I find it very difficult to acquire focus when using this macro converter. Even if split screen shows proper focus, it's hard to get AF indicator (it does get eventually but painfully slow to get). Even with tripod, focusing is painful. So far I have only tried under tungsten lighting.

Would like to know, if this is a common issue with macro converters? any suggestions?

Thanks

[Blue]

I don't know how close to 1:1 you are getting with your setup. However, at 1:1 or greater as well as close distance, the split focus isn't the greatest screen for macro. I use a focus rail when I'm in these situations. Slight movements of the camera effects focus.

[keithlester]

welcome to the trials and tribulations of macro.
Around 1:1 it is easier to set the magnification you require and focus by moving the whole camera/lens combination backward and forward to achieve best focus.
It can be very difficult at first, but you should get used to it. You are on the steep start of the learning curve, it gets easier with practice. Dont be put off by the stunning pictures you see posted on this and other web-sites. Most of these guys have been doing it for years and their keeper-rate is probably still quite low. Digital is pretty much free, so practice, evaluate and delete at will.

Hope this helps

[JeffJS]

I find that when going 1:1 or using MF in general with Macro, I get better results using focus trap (if handheld) rather than relying on my eye even with a split prism. Simply set your lens to the magnification you want, set to AF-S on your camera, look through the viewfinder while holding the shutter release and moving back and fourth a little bit. It will snap the picture when it sees focus.

This is Not as effective when you are wide open and want to isolate a particular part of the subject however. It is also not as useful if you're doing stacking of images. But at 1:1 with a moderately stopped down lens, you can get good results with it. It's certainly worth a try if you haven't already.

[Lowell Goudge]

do you know how many diopters the converter is? or the focal length?

If there are no spec's on it, try to determine the focal length by using it to light a fire with the sun. Seriously, how far from the paper is the lens when you focus the sun into a tiny dot.

Why is this important? because the infinity focus point with a close up lens attached is the focal length of the close up lens, and focal length is 1/diopter in meters.

If you are 250mm away when the sun is focused it is a 4 diopter lens, and this means when attached to your lens, your maximum subject distance is going to be 250mm from the front of the lens. focus will be another +/- perhaps 5mm. the way to achieve approximate focus therefore is to move towards and away from the subject, and then fine focus with the lens focusing collar

[yusuf]

Do you think AF is the solution? I really want to use this for casual food photography and don't want to irritate others while I try hard to get focus

[Blue]

Do you think AF is the solution? I really want to use this for casual food photography and don't want to irritate others while I try hard to get focus

That will be a hat trick with manual focus gear. However, for food photography, AF can do quite well. In many cases, that would be more in the realm of closeup photography anyway.

[Ira]

I have the same converter, but I only recently started playing with it.

And yeah--my K-x doesn't give me good focus confirmation with it either, even at wider apertures before I stop down. Maybe there's just too much loss of light, or lens to sensor distance, for the confirmation to work.

I plan to play with it some more this week using a ton of artificial light, so we'll see what happens with that.

[Lowell Goudge]

it appears I misread the OP's issue, and was thinking that he was having trouble getting focus, not focus confirmation.

OOPS.

I was thinking that it was a close up lens not a macrofocusing TC.

OK with the macro focusing TC, this will need a lens faster than F3.5 to work reliably giving and give focus indication, in the same way that you need for any TC on a lens, a maximum effective aperture larger than F7 for autofocus to work. This is a limit of the AF system.

Now, and there was an interesting thread on this reciently, as you focus in, either with the focus helix on the TC or on the lens, the aperture changes slightly. YOU need to remember that aperture is a physical character of the lens at infinity focus and in many many cases is the physical diameter of the front element.

As a result, macro work results in a substantial loss of light. and it is no surprise that you can't get the AF indication even with an F1.9 lens. At infinity this lens with TC is already F4, and as you approach 1:1 it is beyond F8.

In reading the posts, and the desire to do food photography, I would have to question the use of the macro adaptor. For me, I would prefer any zoom lens with close focus ability and the ability to deliver 1:3 "macro". Something like my tamron 28-75 F2.8 for example would do just fine, for the intended subject. I just can't see a true macro lens being needed for this, and "needed" is the correct question. What is the minimum equipment absolutely needed to do the job

[Ira]

I just can't see a true macro lens being needed for this, and "needed" is the correct question. What is the minimum equipment absolutely needed to do the job

I agree. But I just want to play with mine to see what it can do.

Damn, do I miss my Tamron 90.

[Ira]

...and there was an interesting thread on this reciently, as you focus in, either with the focus helix on the TC or on the lens, the aperture changes slightly.

Any idea on where that thread is?

I can't figure out whether I should focus with the TC or the lens, and what procedures to follow on a trial and error basis.

[donallison13]

I have the Tokina ATX 90mm macro and its 1:1 converter. It's a biatch to use the converter in terms of proper focusing and the DOF is so darn tight that I've given up. This stellar lens at 2.5 macro is just fine without the converter. For fault free macros, I tend to go with my Sigma 180mm EX DG macro and have been very impressed with results from this lens.