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02-26-2011, 09:06 PM   #16
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Anyone who can't get stunning portraits with the 18-55 kit lens with a +1 closeup strap-on adapter to thin the DOF, hasn't studied and practiced enough.
I don't know if I'd use a typical +1 adapter wide open and expect particularly good optical performance. Thin DOF doesn't seem to be a requirement here, and the adapter would only reduce the depth of field to the extent that it reduced the minimum focusing distance, which I'm not sure would be necessary for this application. I would think the kit lens by itself would be ok, although you could also use something like the inexpensive 50-200 for a little longer focal length if you want it, a slightly wider aperture, and less dof if you wanted it.

Paul

02-26-2011, 10:56 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChallengedOne Quote
This image is just not crisp to me...
I see a back-focus problem there - or more correctly a DoF issue. The focus point appears to be on the right ear. Dogs are especially tough at wide apertures because the nose is significantly out of the plane of focus of the eyes at close distances - much more so than people. And when the nose goes soft it's as bad as losing the eyes.

I'd suggest you explore one of the on-line DoF calculators and get a good feel for the DoF vs. bokeh vs. subject distance variables in play for your set-up and lens FL. There's one link right here in PF:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/photography-articles/86171-online-depth-f...alculator.html

You may have to stop down a bit (and then move your background farther back) to get the DoF you need for the relatively deep facial features of a dog. Then the smaller aperture will require more light which in turn will . . . etc, etc.

H2
02-28-2011, 07:50 AM   #18
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The second photo is brighter than the first, why is that? Processed differently or was the exposure changed between shots (possibly by an auto mode)? With an auto mode, Av, Tv, etc, the exposure will change depending on how much of the frame is filled with the black dog.

Under consistent lighting like you have here, I'm a huge fan of figuring out the exposure you want at the start, then using manual mode to keep it steady. This makes batch processing so much easier and will let you keep a consistent look for a series of shots. You can still change the aperture between shots, just compensate by adjusting shutter speed (or iso) to keep the overall exposure consistent. This can be done with the auto modes, say use Av and meter off the background (with an appropriate exposure compensation) and use exposure lock, but I personally find manual easier.
03-20-2011, 03:07 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by BrianR Quote
The second photo is brighter than the first, why is that? Processed differently or was the exposure changed between shots (possibly by an auto mode)? With an auto mode, Av, Tv, etc, the exposure will change depending on how much of the frame is filled with the black dog.

Under consistent lighting like you have here, I'm a huge fan of figuring out the exposure you want at the start, then using manual mode to keep it steady. This makes batch processing so much easier and will let you keep a consistent look for a series of shots. You can still change the aperture between shots, just compensate by adjusting shutter speed (or iso) to keep the overall exposure consistent. This can be done with the auto modes, say use Av and meter off the background (with an appropriate exposure compensation) and use exposure lock, but I personally find manual easier.
Sorry for not responding sooner, idk why the second is brighter I really don't think I changed settings that much between the two shots. I couldn't focus or freeze the motion like I would like to have done. Is my glass just not fast enough? I'm trying to break into portraiture and eventually weddings but I don't think I have the right equipment. My next purchases will be a 70-200mm f2.8 either the sigma or tamaron, a 5/1 reflector kit and possibly a 28-70mm 2.8 lens if finances allow.

03-20-2011, 03:11 PM   #20
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Trying to break into this and it's going very slow.... Getting frustrated actually.

Andrew

Last edited by ChallengedOne; 03-21-2011 at 10:07 AM.
03-22-2011, 05:47 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChallengedOne Quote
Trying to break into this and it's going very slow.... Getting frustrated actually.
If it was easy, everyone would be doing it.

QuoteOriginally posted by ChallengedOne Quote
I couldn't focus or freeze the motion like I would like to have done. Is my glass just not fast enough? I'm trying to break into portraiture and eventually weddings but I don't think I have the right equipment. My next purchases will be a 70-200mm f2.8 either the sigma or tamaron, a 5/1 reflector kit and possibly a 28-70mm 2.8 lens if finances allow.
First, weddings: If you want to "break into" such work, I*strongly* advise that you sign-on as an unpaid intern/gofer for a pro, see how it's actually done, and with what. Same for portraiture. Gaining experience and expertise is much better/easier if you've worked with someone who knows the tricks and troubles. Many books are available covering the techniques, but personal contact will teach you more.

Next, freezing and focus: Fast lenses are NOT easy to focus. And freezing motion takes more than a fast lens. For sharpness, stop-down. For motion, boost the ISO. Learn how to use light in these situations. Read all about it!
_________________________________________________________________________________

PS: My father shot TLR's for decades. About 15 years with an Argoflex-E with 75/4.5 lens, another 15 with a Minolta Autocord with a 75/3.5 lens, before he broke down and got a SLR. He shot semi-pro work with both of those slow TLR's, using Verichrome Pan film with ASA (ISO) of 100. His secrets? Knowledge/experience, timing, care. Those slower lenses gave good sharpness and DOF. The slow film gave exquisite detail -- or sometimes he pushed the film to 250, for a bit better low-light performance. And he knew when to anticipate moves, how to *control* those moves, when to push the shutter. His training? Correspondence school, same way he learned to build electronics and do architectural drawing.

Last edited by RioRico; 03-22-2011 at 06:09 PM.
03-23-2011, 10:04 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChallengedOne Quote
Sorry for not responding sooner, idk why the second is brighter I really don't think I changed settings that much between the two shots. I couldn't focus or freeze the motion like I would like to have done. Is my glass just not fast enough? I'm trying to break into portraiture and eventually weddings but I don't think I have the right equipment. My next purchases will be a 70-200mm f2.8 either the sigma or tamaron, a 5/1 reflector kit and possibly a 28-70mm 2.8 lens if finances allow.
I loved the Tamron 70-200 2.8 on the Pentax(rented twice from Cameralensrental.com), but did not care for the Sigma 70-200 V2 HSM on the Pentax(not as sharp, focus hunting). I think once you get a fast telephoto it will quickly become a favorite for outdoor portrait work. IMO it gives better background bokeh then fast 50mm primes in most cases. If you are not already doing it, take note of settings and lighting conditions when you feel like you nail a photo. I used to do this with note cards I kept with me until I had enough practice to consistently replicate a look that I liked. If that makes no sense what so ever, please forgive me my brain is mush right now, 4 hours of studying algebra will do that.....

03-23-2011, 11:34 PM   #23
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off camera flash setup would knock it up a level
03-24-2011, 09:21 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by C-Factor Quote
I loved the Tamron 70-200 2.8 on the Pentax(rented twice from Cameralensrental.com), but did not care for the Sigma 70-200 V2 HSM on the Pentax(not as sharp, focus hunting). I think once you get a fast telephoto it will quickly become a favorite for outdoor portrait work. IMO it gives better background bokeh then fast 50mm primes in most cases. If you are not already doing it, take note of settings and lighting conditions when you feel like you nail a photo. I used to do this with note cards I kept with me until I had enough practice to consistently replicate a look that I liked. If that makes no sense what so ever, please forgive me my brain is mush right now, 4 hours of studying algebra will do that.....
How do you keep record with the K10D of your settings? When using the 18-55mm DMc da the camera display does not indicate f-stop or shutter speed in any of the settings. I feel like I have to hunt for it until I get it close, then the shutter is so slow that when the pup moved it blurs the shot or auto back focuses.
03-24-2011, 09:44 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by C-Factor Quote
I loved the Tamron 70-200 2.8 on the Pentax(rented twice from Cameralensrental.com), but did not care for the Sigma 70-200 V2 HSM on the Pentax(not as sharp, focus hunting). I think once you get a fast telephoto it will quickly become a favorite for outdoor portrait work. IMO it gives better background bokeh then fast 50mm primes in most cases. If you are not already doing it, take note of settings and lighting conditions when you feel like you nail a photo. I used to do this with note cards I kept with me until I had enough practice to consistently replicate a look that I liked. If that makes no sense what so ever, please forgive me my brain is mush right now, 4 hours of studying algebra will do that.....
The reviews I read on the tamron lens were not that good as far as sports fast action are related. Idk but it steered me towards the sigma I'd rather pay for the tamron... Did you use it for sports outdoor and indoor baseball and hockey?
03-24-2011, 12:42 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChallengedOne Quote
The reviews I read on the tamron lens were not that good as far as sports fast action are related. Idk but it steered me towards the sigma I'd rather pay for the tamron... Did you use it for sports outdoor and indoor baseball and hockey?
I used the Tamron to shoot two weddings. For one it was on the k10D and only used for the outside ceremony and the other it was on a K7 and used in a similar situation. true, it does not blast through the focusing range, but it still seemed to lock quicker on still subjects than then the Sigma did. On the other hand I am pretty happy with the Sigma on my Nikon, so if you can try before you buy, or rent like I did. Overall I found the Tamron to be shaper on the Pentax with better color saturation and it was fairly easy to manual focus.
03-24-2011, 12:44 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChallengedOne Quote
How do you keep record with the K10D of your settings? When using the 18-55mm DMc da the camera display does not indicate f-stop or shutter speed in any of the settings. I feel like I have to hunt for it until I get it close, then the shutter is so slow that when the pup moved it blurs the shot or auto back focuses.
What mode are you shooting in? I only use manual exposure settings, so I always see the info in viewfinder unless using old lenses that don't communicate apeture information.

Last edited by C-Factor; 03-24-2011 at 08:43 PM.
03-24-2011, 07:57 PM   #28
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Thats probably the problem fstop communication... Furthermore the tamron and sigma both have autofocus as well right? Dont have much time to fiddle with auto focus when a center fielder is diving for a catch, unless you are already locked in.
04-04-2011, 08:40 PM   #29
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I have a question relating to backdrops, what is the best things to use for back drops. I have used a make shift back drop recently (quilt off white) was not real happy it did wringle some on one side. Does not show bad but I can see it and am very dissapointed. I bought some white muslim material but it was so wrinkled that I was unable to use it at the last minute, only new of the job an hour a head and was out and unable to get back and iron the material. I do not have a room set up yet, so it had to be set up the last minute. Any suggestion would be appreciated.. Thanks
04-04-2011, 09:12 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by emetcalf Quote
I have a question relating to backdrops, what is the best things to use for back drops. I have used a make shift back drop recently (quilt off white) was not real happy it did wringle some on one side. Does not show bad but I can see it and am very dissapointed. I bought some white muslim material but it was so wrinkled that I was unable to use it at the last minute, only new of the job an hour a head and was out and unable to get back and iron the material. I do not have a room set up yet, so it had to be set up the last minute. Any suggestion would be appreciated.. Thanks
I use soft muslins... they usually dont wrinkle on me. I place them back in the plastic bag they came in fold them gently then place them into a hard clear thin plastic tackle box. So that nothing else applies pressure causing undo wrinkles.
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