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03-29-2011, 12:23 AM   #16
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another challenge from the previous event, they had fun day out activities which involves yacht racing which no way on earth you can shoot on manual focus. i certainly was not planning to dive out of the boat

I set my k-x to Av and used my kit lens

Here are the examples







From these photos, a CPL filter probably a good idea to increase the contrast on the sky. but at the same time it means i'll have to increase the ISO or slower shutter speed (which obviously not the option at the time as the lighting condition was bit cloudy and the boat was moving quite fast and rocky which means blurry pictures)

03-29-2011, 04:10 AM   #17
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Or you could open the aperture a stop more, which would have meant slightly more blurry backgrounds, but that may be a good thing.

There is more than one way to attack such an exposure issue under mediocre lighting, but thesedays high ISO isn't as much as a problem as it was in the past.
03-29-2011, 06:35 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ash Quote
Or you could open the aperture a stop more, which would have meant slightly more blurry backgrounds, but that may be a good thing.

There is more than one way to attack such an exposure issue under mediocre lighting, but thesedays high ISO isn't as much as a problem as it was in the past.
too bad the it was at its max aperture at 3.5 this 18-55mm kit lens. Yes k-x is the ISO king but i did remove the noise at post processing stage using noise ninja.
03-29-2011, 01:59 PM   #19
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Well that would be part of the problem.
Wide open on the kit lens is asking for a poorer quality image right from the start.
If you need better IQ in the same settings, you'll need a better quality lens.

03-29-2011, 02:36 PM   #20
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I like the composition of #2, well done. Maybe I've gone flash crazy lately, but for pic #2 & #3 I would have used a little bit of fill flash to add a bit of pop and make the person stand out more from the dull sky.

If I was you I'd be scraping my pennies up (or selling something on ebay to raise the money) for a Tamron 28-75 f2.8 as your lenses really don't cut it for what you've been paid to do IMHO.
03-29-2011, 03:33 PM   #21
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If you are using the K-x and the 18-250, it may also be worth noting that DXO Optics Pro has modules that directly support that combo. This might help you squeeze the maximum potential out of the K-x and the 18-250, for not much extra $$ outlay.
03-29-2011, 06:50 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ash Quote
Well that would be part of the problem.
Wide open on the kit lens is asking for a poorer quality image right from the start.
If you need better IQ in the same settings, you'll need a better quality lens.
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Im with you ash. this kit lens is below par. but i had to utilize equipments that I have on hand. it's quite impossible to use manual lens when the boat is rocking too haha

03-29-2011, 06:58 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by twitch Quote
I like the composition of #2, well done. Maybe I've gone flash crazy lately, but for pic #2 & #3 I would have used a little bit of fill flash to add a bit of pop and make the person stand out more from the dull sky.

If I was you I'd be scraping my pennies up (or selling something on ebay to raise the money) for a Tamron 28-75 f2.8 as your lenses really don't cut it for what you've been paid to do IMHO.
twitch, thanks yes, the #2 is one of the best shot from the yacht racing.

you are right, a fill flash would have made the faces more stand up from the dull skies.

this event i was covering, i didnt get any pennies out of it. My friend asked me if I am willing to cover an event for free to build up my portfolios.

but on this up coming event, yes im getting paid for it. hence I invested on the 18-250 and from what the comment I have been getting from you fellow pentaxian, that it's not a good buy. Which means I have to buy another lens after this event then haha. here comes LBA

I also invested on Pelican case 1510 to protect the equipments as I have to fly to a different state for this event.
03-29-2011, 07:04 PM - 1 Like   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by kwetiaw Quote

I agree completely, I didnt realise until you pointed it out. I could have them walk a little bit further just by the water. Thanks for pointing it out. the day was pretty much covered with grey clouds which makes the outcome less attractive.
QuoteOriginally posted by kwetiaw Quote
too bad the it was at its max aperture at 3.5 this 18-55mm kit lens. Yes k-x is the ISO king but i did remove the noise at post processing stage using noise ninja.
Grey cloud cover is your friend when shooting portraits outside.. the light from the sky is less harsh as the clouds become one big softbox. If it was a bright sunny day, there would be harsh shadows on the faces of your subjects.. one of the reasons why shooting in the early morning or evening during the golden hours is that the sunlight is not direct and harsh like it is when the sun is higher up in the sky.

I was about to ask whether you post process your images or not but it looks like you do.. the reason I wondered about that is because in the boat photos, the white balance looks quite off to me.. everything has a bit of a purplish tinge to it. I can't tell whether that was your intention or not. I like the composition of #2 and 3 though.
03-29-2011, 07:04 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by rawr Quote
If you are using the K-x and the 18-250, it may also be worth noting that DXO Optics Pro has modules that directly support that combo. This might help you squeeze the maximum potential out of the K-x and the 18-250, for not much extra $$ outlay.
Pentax Kx + Samsung 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3

thats the combo supported by the DXO optics pro. but I will try the trial anyway to see how this can help.

Thanks!
03-29-2011, 07:29 PM - 1 Like   #26
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Radical option #1) Clear $400 from that 18-250 (just checking used sold prices on ebay), buy a Tamron 28-75 for $430 (topbuy.com.au and hope it's a good copy), add $80 for a 18-55 (ebay) to cover the wide end, you have a 100 & 135 to cover long. Assuming all those costs are right it would need $110

Radical option #2) buy the 28-75 before the event, sell the 18-250 immediately after the event. This way you don't need the 18-55 but you need to somehow float the $400ish for a couple of weeks, but that's what CC's are for right?

Last edited by twitch; 03-29-2011 at 07:36 PM.
03-29-2011, 07:53 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by twitch Quote
Radical option #1) Clear $400 from that 18-250 (just checking used sold prices on ebay), buy a Tamron 28-75 for $430 (topbuy.com.au and hope it's a good copy), add $80 for a 18-55 (ebay) to cover the wide end, you have a 100 & 135 to cover long. Assuming all those costs are right it would need $110

Radical option #2) buy the 28-75 before the event, sell the 18-250 immediately after the event. This way you don't need the 18-55 but you need to somehow float the $400ish for a couple of weeks, but that's what CC's are for right?
HAHAHAHAHAA, i like the idea.
But having 18-250 is good for travelling. trust me after all the above posts. It made me think back, I should've have get this instead of that.

the event is next monday the 4th-6th. There wont be enough time for the delivery even. plus i dont own a credit card haha. safer that way considering im catching LBA disease.

Im thinking to keep 18-250mm for 2 months travelling after the event.
Sell the 18-55mm and other manual lenses that i dont even need to raise some fund and get the tamron.

I checked them on ebay and it cost around $400 including free delivery.
03-29-2011, 08:13 PM - 1 Like   #28
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It will be tough to use the 18-250 indoors I'm assuming because of the slow apertures. Flash isn't really an option at the longer focal lengths either, because it is not going to reach out to 250mm.... It's also very hard to get good candids and not disturb everyone when you are using flash.

You may try using a couple of fast primes and walking around. These will give you fast shutter speeds, so you can shoot in the low light. I try to keep my shutter speeds at AT LEAST 1/60 for people, because even slight movements can cause motion blur at slow shutter speeds.

FWIW, I use a two camera setup with a 17-55 f/2.8 lens on one and a 70-200 f/2.8 lens on the other. This covers everything I could really want to shoot and keeps me from missing a shot (especially if I'm the only shooter). Both of these lenses are f/2.8 throughout the range and stabilized (I shoot Canon). I usually am at ISO 400-800, depending on the lighting. You are going to have to boost the ISO A LOT with an f/6.3 lens.

Last edited by str8talk83; 03-29-2011 at 08:20 PM.
03-30-2011, 04:16 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by kwetiaw Quote
Pentax Kx + Samsung 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3
thats the combo supported by the DXO optics pro. but I will try the trial anyway to see how this can help.
The DXO module knows that the Pentax/Tamron/Samsung 18-250 are the same lens. It will work fine.

I'd be interested in your feedback on DXO, the K-x and the 18-250.
03-30-2011, 05:51 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by str8talk83 Quote
It will be tough to use the 18-250 indoors I'm assuming because of the slow apertures. Flash isn't really an option at the longer focal lengths either, because it is not going to reach out to 250mm.... It's also very hard to get good candids and not disturb everyone when you are using flash.

You may try using a couple of fast primes and walking around. These will give you fast shutter speeds, so you can shoot in the low light. I try to keep my shutter speeds at AT LEAST 1/60 for people, because even slight movements can cause motion blur at slow shutter speeds.

FWIW, I use a two camera setup with a 17-55 f/2.8 lens on one and a 70-200 f/2.8 lens on the other. This covers everything I could really want to shoot and keeps me from missing a shot (especially if I'm the only shooter). Both of these lenses are f/2.8 throughout the range and stabilized (I shoot Canon). I usually am at ISO 400-800, depending on the lighting. You are going to have to boost the ISO A LOT with an f/6.3 lens.
Thanks for the insight str8talk83.

yes the lighting condition is somewhat fortunate as it is artifical, so i'll have more control over it. the lens 18-250 would be much use for outdoor event as I can increase the aperture to at around f8 and slap on a CPL polarizer.

I will need to invest on a prime lens and another body for sure after this event.
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