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10-21-2007, 10:35 PM   #1
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'Battery Switching' question.

Hello all.

I have the battery grip married to my K10D, with an additional battery residing within it. Tonight, the battery in the grip (set to be used first) was depleted during operation. I had thought that the battery in the body of my camera would automatically switch into gear. But it did not. I had to power my camera down & back on, in order for the other battery to step into gear. Isn't it supposed to work as I thought that it would?

10-22-2007, 04:16 AM   #2
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That's what I thought also, but evidently not, cause mine behaves the same as yours. I reset mine to auto select. It works well in that setting.

On long shoots, where I know I probably will go through both batteries, I'll pull the one out of the body and only have power in the grip. I do this so I don't have to remove the grip to change batteries.
10-22-2007, 04:24 AM   #3
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My experience is the same. Grip first then camera battery. Freaked me out the first time it happened. Since I was miles from a charger and thought that I had more than enough power for the day. Bit of a nuisance but doesn't take more than a few seconds to reset.
10-22-2007, 04:33 AM   #4
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I am being repetitious - have posted this before - but I consider this is the best workflow...

1 - 2 batteries
2 - priority to grip battery
3 - when camera stops:
4 - realise why )
5 - Flick camera switch off and on
6 - continue shooting
7 - change grip battery when convenient
8 - switch off and on to return to grip battery (Just making sure) - not needed if you remembered to switch off before replacing grip battery
9 - goto 3

At the end of the day recharge batteries and every 2nd or third cycle pull out the body battery and charge it so it will be waiting fully charged for step 3 above. Works well because the batteries have very good charge retention over time so the body battery does not go flat on you like NiMh do.

I agree the battery changeover should be expected to be auto in the camera, but then the above procedure would not work and you would suddenly just end up locked with NO batteries instantly available as they always are with the above sequence.

Rod

10-22-2007, 07:13 AM   #5
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Actually the Auto setting is probably best--especially if you have a pair of spare batteries. Yea, yea, I know it's a PIA to change both batteries, but...

At power-up, on Auto, the camera firmware is supposed to choose the battery with the 'most remaining charge'. Considering the chemical reaction in the batteries, the need for some migration of materials to generate the charge and a couple other electrochemical considerations, allowing a battery to rest periodically during its discharge cycle seems well advised.

The proof is in the doing. On a couple of high speed/high volume events I was able to get about 1200 shots from a-almost continuous shooting for several hours. On the other hand, on a recent vacation, I took 1600 shots over 4 days and then almost 200 a couple days later before the batteries exhausted.

Some camera auto function seem to have positive benefits! YMMV.


QuoteOriginally posted by NLAlston Quote
Hello all.

I have the battery grip married to my K10D, with an additional battery residing within it. Tonight, the battery in the grip (set to be used first) was depleted during operation. I had thought that the battery in the body of my camera would automatically switch into gear. But it did not. I had to power my camera down & back on, in order for the other battery to step into gear. Isn't it supposed to work as I thought that it would?
10-22-2007, 04:16 PM   #6
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Thanks to everyone for your informative responses. I thing that I, henceforth, will adopt the manner of just having a battery in the grip, with the other one in my camera bag. The main reason that I bought my grip was so that a second battery would be at the 'ready', for automatic action in the event of the other's depletion. But I don't really see the present situation as a loss (the purchase price of the grip), because the additional real estate for my larger-than-average hands does mean something to me. But thanks, again.
10-22-2007, 05:21 PM   #7
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WOW. that's an interesting conclusion! Are you really in that many situations where a quick change of the battery is necessary? I shoot a LOT of fast moving events and only in one particular instance in 7 or 8 years has such a change been necessary. My solution was at a completely different level-changed cameras! Perhaps...


QuoteOriginally posted by NLAlston Quote
Thanks to everyone for your informative responses. I thing that I, henceforth, will adopt the manner of just having a battery in the grip, with the other one in my camera bag. The main reason that I bought my grip was so that a second battery would be at the 'ready', for automatic action in the event of the other's depletion. But I don't really see the present situation as a loss (the purchase price of the grip), because the additional real estate for my larger-than-average hands does mean something to me. But thanks, again.
10-22-2007, 05:25 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by NLAlston Quote
Thanks to everyone for your informative responses. I think that I, henceforth, will adopt the manner of just having a battery in the grip, with the other one in my camera bag. (snip)

Since I got tired of removing the grip each time the camera battery required charging, I eventually adopted the same (battery only in grip) solution as well, Nathan. After all, opening the grip to switch batteries occasionally is a whole lot easier than removing the entire grip. Of course, I'm not suggesting there is anything wrong with the other ways of doing this (using batteries). This is just my preferred way of doing things.

stewart

10-22-2007, 05:43 PM   #9
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I agree with jfdavis58. I shoot a few weddings and other events and I know that I can turn the camera on and off much faster than digging in a pocket and opening the grip to replace a battery. Easily done without taking the eye from the viewfinder. I see Stewart's point but if I'm off to shoot for a day, I'll take the grip off and top up the batteries anyway so I prefer the 2 battery set up. Plus once the grip battery dies I know that I'm on the camera now and may need to get the third battery out at some point (heavy flash use)
10-22-2007, 06:41 PM   #10
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+1 for exactly what RodConn said; not a PIA in the slightest. ...this from a guy that carries around 6 batteries (2 in-camera + 4 spares) if he's going out for a full day of shooting. Grip gets used, and in-body battery is just "a reserve", used until it's conveient to change the grip battery then off & on to go back to using the grip.
10-22-2007, 06:52 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by jfdavis58 Quote
Actually the Auto setting is probably best--especially if you have a pair of spare batteries. Yea, yea, I know it's a PIA to change both batteries, but...

At power-up, on Auto, the camera firmware is supposed to choose the battery with the 'most remaining charge'. Considering the chemical reaction in the batteries, the need for some migration of materials to generate the charge and a couple other electrochemical considerations, allowing a battery to rest periodically during its discharge cycle seems well advised.

The proof is in the doing. On a couple of high speed/high volume events I was able to get about 1200 shots from a-almost continuous shooting for several hours. On the other hand, on a recent vacation, I took 1600 shots over 4 days and then almost 200 a couple days later before the batteries exhausted.

Some camera auto function seem to have positive benefits! YMMV.
Interesting. I never thought of it that way. I wonder if, when the camera goes to into stand by mode, and you wake it with a half press, does the camera go through the battery check?
10-22-2007, 07:01 PM   #12
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Good points by all.

My initial, and largest, concern was that there might have been some type of malfunction with my camera - because it didn't do as I thought it would, under that 'depleting situation' , but now finding that it is the way that feature works - I feel much more at ease.

Regarding how I may now handle the 'Battery Switching' matter, is something brought on by another (slightly smaller) concern that I have. When I bought my grip I found that one of the connector pins was lazy, and refused to move from its lowered position in its housing. I didn't bother to send it back, as it did come out after a few insertions of the housing into its mate, at the bottom of my camera's body. I always carry a little worry about that pin being weak, and feel that repeated removal/replacing of the connector might prove to be problematic in that area. As I kinda like to alternate my two batteries, I am going through that process of 'removing & replacing' on an near regular basis. Just keeping a battery in the grip would lighten me from the need of taking the grip off. Keeping my extra battery in the bag would translate into my grip staying always on my camera, and - therefore - without need of worrying about that connector finally deciding to give out .
10-22-2007, 07:36 PM   #13
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OK, I see your point. If you don't trouble trouble and all that. I'd be inclined to think that you just had a burr in the pin hole; it needed a little manual manipulation and possibly all is now fine--but hey, a service call is expensive, so just a single pin problem is probably better avoided. Still, you got a good magnifying glass or a loupe and a bright light...


Now to all you who 'top-off' batteries. Yeah, yeah, these don't develop a memory---that we know of. Which means nobody has made a detailed examination! Everybody just took the word of the engineer(s) that designed them. Well, I'm an engineer and I don't take anyones word without proof--including/especially and in particular other engineers. And I hate waiting on the recharger. I run my batteries to empty and recharge in bulk; got six sets of batteries. But I also have a car inverter and a pair of chargers.


QuoteOriginally posted by NLAlston Quote
Good points by all.

My initial, and largest, concern was that there might have been some type of malfunction with my camera - because it didn't do as I thought it would, under that 'depleting situation' , but now finding that it is the way that feature works - I feel much more at ease.

Regarding how I may now handle the 'Battery Switching' matter, is something brought on by another (slightly smaller) concern that I have. When I bought my grip I found that one of the connector pins was lazy, and refused to move from its lowered position in its housing. I didn't bother to send it back, as it did come out after a few insertions of the housing into its mate, at the bottom of my camera's body. I always carry a little worry about that pin being weak, and feel that repeated removal/replacing of the connector might prove to be problematic in that area. As I kinda like to alternate my two batteries, I am going through that process of 'removing & replacing' on an near regular basis. Just keeping a battery in the grip would lighten me from the need of taking the grip off. Keeping my extra battery in the bag would translate into my grip staying always on my camera, and - therefore - without need of worrying about that connector finally deciding to give out .
10-22-2007, 07:38 PM   #14
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That would be very interesting to know!

QuoteOriginally posted by roscot Quote
Interesting. I never thought of it that way. I wonder if, when the camera goes to into stand by mode, and you wake it with a half press, does the camera go through the battery check?
10-22-2007, 07:49 PM   #15
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Well it's a good workflow--a bit complicated, but still pretty good.


My real problem is seeing how 600 shots on a battery, 1200 for two (give or take) and then you run-out at a critical time. Guess a lot of you never shot sports for money on film. I can change film and batteries, on a dead run during a hurry-up offense in the last 10 seconds of a game--clock running!:ugh:

And some people snivel at removing a battery grip!


QuoteOriginally posted by RodConn Quote
I am being repetitious - have posted this before - but I consider this is the best workflow...

1 - 2 batteries
2 - priority to grip battery
3 - when camera stops:
4 - realise why )
5 - Flick camera switch off and on
6 - continue shooting
7 - change grip battery when convenient
8 - switch off and on to return to grip battery (Just making sure) - not needed if you remembered to switch off before replacing grip battery
9 - goto 3

At the end of the day recharge batteries and every 2nd or third cycle pull out the body battery and charge it so it will be waiting fully charged for step 3 above. Works well because the batteries have very good charge retention over time so the body battery does not go flat on you like NiMh do.

I agree the battery changeover should be expected to be auto in the camera, but then the above procedure would not work and you would suddenly just end up locked with NO batteries instantly available as they always are with the above sequence.

Rod
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