Using a cable release and MLU on a K10D-procedure?

macdaddy · 11-21-2007, 09:05 AM

I'm getting set to do some quality architectural shots with the K10D and 12-24mm/f4 and 16-45mm/f4 lenses using a cable release and mirror lock up. Anyone able to tell me the proper settings in the various menus to achieve this? I'm presuming Bulb mode and some obscure custom setting, but can't find it for sure. Either the manual or my brain seems extremely dense on the procedure. 8o)
Rob W

dgimcmillan · 11-21-2007, 09:52 AM

I'm not sure I understand why you would need to go to the extremes you're describing.

For architectural shots, you need:

1. Good wide-angle lens, with the ability to be sharp from edge to edge;
2. Solid tripod
3. Clear Field of View for composing the image
4. Good lighting

Of course, these are all variables. You could scrimp on the lens, if the lighting is perfect, etc.

I don't think bulb mode is necessary. I've gotten some reasonable shots with far shorter exposures than bulb mode would indicate. Usually, I've worked in Av, and let the aperture value set the shutter speed.

What is important, I think, is to use your best aperture - f22 and up. This will ensure as much as possible that you have everything in focus for your full depth of field.

The tripod is mandatory to me. Because an f22 or up is going to cause a fairly slow shutter speed, and shake could become an issue. At that point, maybe mirror lock-up will help. I've never used it, so I can't comment.

Just my .02 cents, I don't claim to be an expert

. I just like taking building shots.

Ian Mc.

macdaddy · 11-21-2007, 12:44 PM

All of the procedures/settings you mentioned are my reasons for using a tripod, cable release and/or MLU! I want the best photo I can get and that means using a cable release to minimize vibration as well as mirror lock up for the same reasons! For an excellent tutorial explaining why use mirror lockup, go here:
Mirror Lock-Up
Rob W

Artymous · 11-21-2007, 01:22 PM

I don't have the K10D in front of me, but I think you'll find the 2-sec MLU under the FN button and then going to the top menu. It'll look like a circle with a line with a mini-2 in the corner.

Then all you need to do is attach the cable-release, and it'll be ready to fire. You shouldn't need any other settings.

You also don't need Bulb Mode unless you want complete control over your shutter without having to adjust on-camera. So basically that's just a personal preference thing.

**barondla** · 11-23-2007, 05:57 PM

Actually, I rarely use the remote release. If the exposure is 30 seconds or less I use the wireless remote on manual exposure. The wireless has less chance for moving the camera and it sets the mirror lock up to 3 sec vs 2sec! Either mode is easy to use. Hit fn button, move 4 way controller up and use right button to move over to 2 sec or remote 3 sec. If you are making close to 30 second exposures remember to turn on noise reduction in custom menu. If I want the sharpest photos would not shoot anywhere near f22. You are trading off sharpness for dof. Try to stop down as little as possible to get what you want in focus. Shoot different f stops for a choice. Shoot raw. If you put K10D on P and in custom function menu select MTF. The camera will tell you the lens best aperture! Unless its to dark. No one else has this feature. Have fun.

thanks
barondla

m8o · 11-24-2007, 12:54 AM

all great recommendations. ya, i have to play with MTF mode for optimal lens settings based on the built-in tables one of these days... (limited to pentax lenses of course)

macdaddy, indoor or outdoor architectural? if indoor, with flash or w/o? If indoor w/o flash, be sure to use RAW, as the in-camera incandecent WB really doesn't go low enough. You get much more accurate WB in post using Lightroom or some other converter that has a WB that goes down to 2000K, where you'll probably find you want around 2500K +/- 250. ...again, if indoor, w/o flash; assuming w/o flash as you're looking to use bulb mode.

dgimcmillan · 11-26-2007, 05:35 PM

Thanks for the link on the mirror lock-up, macdaddy. I hadn't seen it before, and it really helps my understanding why it is such a good practice.

Most of my building photography has been done in a tourist situation - visiting Europe and/or other places. I wish I had made use of MLU now!

What I DID do was use a cable release, and my camera on the 2 second delay. I think that helped me a fair bit. Unfortunately, I can't afford to go back to Europe and test the difference, so I guess I'll try it here at home.<grin>

As far as f22 goes, it worked for me because I was trying to capture large cathedrals and palaces. I wanted that Depth of Field, even at the expense of some sharpness.

Ian Mc.

11-21-2007, 09:05 AM	#1
macdaddy Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dahlonega, GA Photos: Gallery Posts: 141	Using a cable release and MLU on a K10D-procedure? I'm getting set to do some quality architectural shots with the K10D and 12-24mm/f4 and 16-45mm/f4 lenses using a cable release and mirror lock up. Anyone able to tell me the proper settings in the various menus to achieve this? I'm presuming Bulb mode and some obscure custom setting, but can't find it for sure. Either the manual or my brain seems extremely dense on the procedure. 8o) Rob W

11-21-2007, 09:52 AM	#2
dgimcmillan New Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 13	Bulb is overkill, I think I'm not sure I understand why you would need to go to the extremes you're describing. For architectural shots, you need: 1. Good wide-angle lens, with the ability to be sharp from edge to edge; 2. Solid tripod 3. Clear Field of View for composing the image 4. Good lighting Of course, these are all variables. You could scrimp on the lens, if the lighting is perfect, etc. I don't think bulb mode is necessary. I've gotten some reasonable shots with far shorter exposures than bulb mode would indicate. Usually, I've worked in Av, and let the aperture value set the shutter speed. What is important, I think, is to use your best aperture - f22 and up. This will ensure as much as possible that you have everything in focus for your full depth of field. The tripod is mandatory to me. Because an f22 or up is going to cause a fairly slow shutter speed, and shake could become an issue. At that point, maybe mirror lock-up will help. I've never used it, so I can't comment. Just my .02 cents, I don't claim to be an expert. I just like taking building shots. Ian Mc.

11-21-2007, 12:44 PM	#3
macdaddy Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dahlonega, GA Photos: Gallery Posts: 141 Original Poster	All of the procedures/settings you mentioned are my reasons for using a tripod, cable release and/or MLU! I want the best photo I can get and that means using a cable release to minimize vibration as well as mirror lock up for the same reasons! For an excellent tutorial explaining why use mirror lockup, go here: Mirror Lock-Up Rob W Last edited by macdaddy; 11-21-2007 at 05:30 PM.

11-24-2007, 12:54 AM	#6
m8o Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: 40°-55'-44" N / 73°-24'-07" W [on LI] Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,092	all great recommendations. ya, i have to play with MTF mode for optimal lens settings based on the built-in tables one of these days... (limited to pentax lenses of course) macdaddy, indoor or outdoor architectural? if indoor, with flash or w/o? If indoor w/o flash, be sure to use RAW, as the in-camera incandecent WB really doesn't go low enough. You get much more accurate WB in post using Lightroom or some other converter that has a WB that goes down to 2000K, where you'll probably find you want around 2500K +/- 250. ...again, if indoor, w/o flash; assuming w/o flash as you're looking to use bulb mode. Last edited by m8o; 11-24-2007 at 01:02 AM.

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11-21-2007, 01:22 PM	#4
Artymous Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sechelt, B.C. Photos: Gallery Posts: 229	I don't have the K10D in front of me, but I think you'll find the 2-sec MLU under the FN button and then going to the top menu. It'll look like a circle with a line with a mini-2 in the corner. Then all you need to do is attach the cable-release, and it'll be ready to fire. You shouldn't need any other settings. You also don't need Bulb Mode unless you want complete control over your shutter without having to adjust on-camera. So basically that's just a personal preference thing.

11-23-2007, 05:57 PM	#5
barondla Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: midwest, United States Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,715	Actually, I rarely use the remote release. If the exposure is 30 seconds or less I use the wireless remote on manual exposure. The wireless has less chance for moving the camera and it sets the mirror lock up to 3 sec vs 2sec! Either mode is easy to use. Hit fn button, move 4 way controller up and use right button to move over to 2 sec or remote 3 sec. If you are making close to 30 second exposures remember to turn on noise reduction in custom menu. If I want the sharpest photos would not shoot anywhere near f22. You are trading off sharpness for dof. Try to stop down as little as possible to get what you want in focus. Shoot different f stops for a choice. Shoot raw. If you put K10D on P and in custom function menu select MTF. The camera will tell you the lens best aperture! Unless its to dark. No one else has this feature. Have fun. thanks barondla

11-26-2007, 05:35 PM	#7
dgimcmillan New Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 13	Thanks for the link on the mirror lock-up, macdaddy. I hadn't seen it before, and it really helps my understanding why it is such a good practice. Most of my building photography has been done in a tourist situation - visiting Europe and/or other places. I wish I had made use of MLU now! What I DID do was use a cable release, and my camera on the 2 second delay. I think that helped me a fair bit. Unfortunately, I can't afford to go back to Europe and test the difference, so I guess I'll try it here at home.<grin> As far as f22 goes, it worked for me because I was trying to capture large cathedrals and palaces. I wanted that Depth of Field, even at the expense of some sharpness. Ian Mc.