Originally posted by Rupert Agreed! If you get it just right...but if you don't, you have a non repairable photo. Somewhere off a little to the left of right, well within a safe distance from blown works best by far on my K5.
90% of it is knowing how the Metering works on your camera. Set it to spot mode, meter on the brightest object, AE-L, and Focus and bam. Sounds like its complicated - but it takes no time at all..
Plus - thats why you have the ability to display your Histogram - sure you might not use ETTR in the middle of a 'make or break' shot - but the other 98% of the time - it takes a simple check on the LCD Screen in review to see if the Histogram is blown or if there is any red 'Blinkies' (Highlight set to view in preview/review)
Like anything - its a simple technique that is quickly mastered and can often be of great advantage on many other cameras. I'm sure it still helps on the K5 - since its a simple technological fact the way the sensors work that there is more
detail in the right side of the histogram than the left side.. You might be able to stretch the shadows a lot on a 'normal' K-5 shot - but you'll still record more
detail like texture, contrast etc by using ETTR (I would assume - based on the known way sensors record data and the matrix used to store that data...)
ETTR is about 'detail' - not about getting great boosted shadows - if that makes sense ? On any sensor - there is more bits to store data on the right of the Histogram versus the left... But at the end of the day - if the K-5 shot 'normally' and then stretched in PP works for you - go for it - just having a shot to do it with is whats important right
(p.s - maybe this could break your slump - spend some time reading how to actually expose to the right properly and look at how it works for you - Check the "Roll your own ETTR Meter" for a quick way to get a grip on it all..
http://daystarvisions.com/Docs/Tuts/K20D_Tips/pg1.html and do read the LL guides about it as well! )