[RioRico]

Anyone got any experience of extreme macro (on the cheap!)

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-lens-articles/152336-cheap-macro-b...lose-work.html

This at the moment is a theoretical question (as I don't own all the items --- yet!) but if your camera bag consisted of the following which would be the most useful item or combination of items for some extreme macro?

1) Tamron 90mm SP Di Macro
2) Cheap manual extension tubes 9, 16 and 30mm
3) Pentax SMC-M 50mm f/1.7
4) Various reversing and coupling rings

You get the cleanest macro (least optical degradation) with extension (tubes and/or bellows) especially with a reversed lens. You get the most extreme macro by reverse-stacking a short prime onto a long prime; a 200mm on the camera with a 25mm stacked on it gives 200/25= 8:1 magnification. Or stack a 28mm on that 90mm for ~3:1 mag, more with the 90mm extended. Any lens reversal means you must work very close, about 45mm with Pentax-type lenses.

With what you've listed, you'll get ~1:1.5 magnification with the 90mm lens fully extended on your 55mm of tubes. Whether 1.5x is extreme is up to you. Get another set of tubes, mount the M50 on both sets, and you'll get ~2:1 magnification. Remember than a non-reversed lens can't focus closer than its focal length (to the optical center of the lens) and that's where the magnification is greatest. So the 50mm lens has a close-focus of 5cm and the 90mm at 9cm. Closer/shorter (and more magnification) is better for studio work; further/longer (and less mag) is better for field work.

How 'extreme' you go depends on where you'll be working, your tripod/rail setup, lighting, etc. See the article for suggestions. Have fun!

[veato]

Update....

After so many recommendations for the 28mm I bit the bullet. Between Xmas and my (soon) birthday as well as what I already had I've managed to gather:

2nd Hand - SMC-M 28mm
2nd Hand - SMC-M 50mm
2nd Hand - Pentax Extension Tubes Set (manual)

New - Various rings and adapters
New - Micro Apollo 45 MKII
New - Kirk Macro Flashbracket
New - Giottos Mini Ball Head (for flash bracket)

Have - K-5
Have - Metz 48 AF-1
Have - Sigma 50mm Macro (still waiting to replace with Tamron 90mm Macro)

Using the braket, ball head and micro apollo I should be able to position the flash right over the lens. Apart from that I'm going to re-read the excellent advice here and start experimenting with the different combinations. Only a couple of weeks to go and I'll (hopefully) be able to post some results!

[slip]

If you are going to get into extreme close ups, then you need to invest in a good tripod that can get close to the ground when needed

[veato]

I've got a Giottos tripos that should be up to the job although from what I've got planned (eventually) the tripod won't really be of any use.

[yeatzee]

Do you have any plans for diffusing the flash?

[veato]

Absolutely - a Lasolite Micro Apollo MKII arrived in the post yesterday (a late Xmas present from the wife. She ordered a Wescott Micro Apollo for Xmas but it went out of stock everywhere)

[veato]

Fitted the Kirk flash bracket (with Giottos mini ball head for better flash positioning) on the camera with flash, diffuser, tubes and the 50mm to see how it all goes together......

[Canada_Rockies]

Now all we need to see is the pictures you take with that rig!

[yeatzee]

that does not look fun to carry!

[Nass]

I suspect that diffuser might get in the way - my experience is that bugs tend to sit amidst leaves, branches, flowers and having a large diffuser limits the angles that you can approach your subject at. I ended up making one that covers the same pov from the bug but is very close so much smaller

[veato]

I see what you mean although the diffuser isn't that big (20x13cm), the photo makes it look a lot bigger tbh

[Nass]

Ah... okies. It looks freaking HUGE in that last photo =). fwiw, have a look at this, I went through and made about 10 hoods in as many weeks before I got a config that gives me positional versatility.

[trco]

Ah... okies. It looks freaking HUGE in that last photo =). fwiw, have a look at this, I went through and made about 10 hoods in as many weeks before I got a config that gives me positional versatility.

How does the flash from the top perform?

In my setup I use it from the top-left position for more "shadow" control.

[Nass]

It's not really flash from the top. With the diffuser, the surface of the diffuser becomes the lightsource rather than the relatively pin source flash unit driving it. And, because the diffuser is close to the focus point, the diffuser is relatively large, spanning about 120 degrees, from the pov of the subject. This "120 degrees from the point of view of the subject" is a very important realization with ultramacro flash.

Because, in order to get even lighting, rather than trying to boost the sides (like you're effectively doing by angling it), I put a small gobo on the centre of the diffuser on top (black electrical tape). This compensates for the fact that the light is brighter because the top is closer (using inverse sq. law, top being closer must inevitably give too bright light compared to the sides) and therefore equalizes the light left, top and right.

The central point to realize here is that it's not the absolute size of the diffuser that matters, rather what it looks like from the subject's point of view. A 8cm diffuser 2 cm away with a gobo in the middle (beauty dish principle) gives me much more even wraparound light than a 100 cm diffuser 50 cm away. And I prefer closer because it gives me more portability, more manoeuverability and means I can use 1/32 rather than full power flash or pttl (1/32 means no preflash to scare macro subjects like flies that jump away at the preflash, and shorter recharge times, and faster effective shutter speed and longer lasting batteries)

[trco]

Thank you for you answer Nass.

I must try it with you tehnique - black electrical tape. I like it too if the setup is light, small, portable and with quick flash recharge times.