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11-19-2011, 12:14 AM   #16
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Neutral density filters will make your life so much easier when trying to do this kind of shot.

11-19-2011, 05:35 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Don From The Radio Quote
Neutral density filters will make your life so much easier when trying to do this kind of shot.
Yes, I'll have to do that. As I might have mentioned it was what I had to do with my Panasonic in manual mode but that was in much brighter daylight and I could not get 80 ISO... In todays case it's been very overcast with intermittent rain and I'm able to get iso 80 on the K5 so was surprised to find I was getting overexposure.
Though I guess the other to consider is that the lens on the SLR is larger and probably more efficient then the one on the P&S and transmits light better.
11-19-2011, 07:31 AM - 1 Like   #18
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What you are trying to do here is a little more advanced then most novices with DSLRs do. This is not to discourage but to encourage as by stretching we learn. You are learning more about metering and you have to know about the exposure triangle of shutter speed, ISO and aperture to trade each off against the other to get what you want.


aleonx3's suggestion of using multiple exposure (2-4 exposures should do it) has more then a little merit. It is a tool the K-5 ( it can do up to 9 in camera) gives you for things like this. I often use it myself but as aleonx3 pointed out you will need a tripod. From my experience even with a good tripod you will need to use some kind of shutter release as without it you will end up moving the camera. It could be an IR remote but you will have to set up the camera for IR use before you do the multiple exposure setup. You don't have to get an IR you can use a cable release and later this will come in handy if you decide to start using bulb mode. Here is an inexpensive one from B&H Dot Line Remote Release DL-1490 B&H Photo Video. There are all kinds of these you can use but I have played with this one and for the price it is OK. If you get into this later you can get a really fancy one with timers and things like that but this is a good one to start with. A tripod and remote release will come in handy not only for this or if you decide to use a ND filter but for other things later.


One thing about using multiple exposure is you can get ghosts. This can be a good thing if you want them but if you don't you will have to be on the look out for them.


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11-19-2011, 08:51 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
If you can't slow the shutter down enough to make the water look smooth and silky... try using multiple exposure option to get the combine result, however, in this case, you have to use a tripod though.
A good suggestion.

11-21-2011, 10:37 AM   #20
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it sounds like you're trying to do the impossible. DSLR's still have limits. If it's normal daytime with clouds I'm not even sure that a 3 stop ND filter will be enough. You might need to get the black glass ND (9 or 10 stop). Or a multi exposure shot like mentioned.

And it was mentioned but just for added clarity the 3.5 Ev number is telling you how much your M settings are overexposing the photo. And that 3.5 number is probably the max so you could be overexposing by more than 3.5 stops. for example I remember taking waterfall pics on a very cloudy day in September. I was also using a 2 stop ND filter with a polarizor (I shouldn't have used this with no sun...) and my slowest shutter speed was 4 seconds at f22. On a sunny day at min aperture with 2 stop ND and POL the shutter speed is about 1/2 second. IIRC...

I'm guessing that you're overexposed by 5 (aperture stops) + 2 (ND) +1 (pol) - 3 (shutter speed) = 5 stops overexposed (if we had approximately the same light) - I hope I did the calc correctly

It would helpful if we knew the recommended shutter speed at the aperture (f4) that you wanted to use.
11-21-2011, 10:54 AM   #21
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When you said maybe an ND filter is the thing you were right. Really the best way to acheive what you want ( in daylight hours anyway) is an ND filter (they come in as many as 10 stops though a 4 stop will acheive your goal nicely (10 stops are pretty extreme and not cheap at all)

have a look at this thread lot's of use of various ND and polarisers to acheive movement

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/mini-challenges-games-photo-stories/16293...hots-here.html

IMO the Filters you still need in the digital age are a good CP, a good ND grad to balance sky and foreground exposures and at least one good strong ND (4x +)
All very useful and though you can mimic the grad in lightroom using the real thing saves on pp. you can't emulate the other 2 in post at all
11-21-2011, 11:36 AM   #22
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+1 on the ND filter. It will give you exactly what you want with a little experimentation.

11-21-2011, 12:12 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Frogfish Quote
+1 on the ND filter. It will give you exactly what you want with a little experimentation.
says the man now hooked on an nd 10
11-21-2011, 01:15 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by eddie1960 Quote
says the man now hooked on an nd 10
11-21-2011, 01:51 PM   #25
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You don't need an IR remote, I use the one for my home cinema. Just put the camera in IR mode and press the buttons until it fires
11-21-2011, 11:40 PM   #26
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Thanks everyone. I can get blurring ok. Just not blurring and a narrow DOF.. ND filter will be the way to go.
I guess around 1/10 ss will get me blur but that would be at around f22.
11-22-2011, 07:18 AM   #27
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Hi All:

The answer is a 1.2 ND filter, or a polarizer with a 0.9 ND filter. The first cuts off about 4 stops of light (if you are +3.5, you need to cut 3.5 stops of light). Using the polarizer cuts about 1 stop of light and the 0.9ND filter cuts the other 3 stops. The ND filters may be marked as ND 1, ND 2, ND 3, etc. This usually means the number of stops by which they reduce the light.

While you are getting the regular ND filters, you may want to pick up some graduated ones too. They can be very helpful!

Regards,
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