What setting more appropriate in dark concert hall?

Neel1 · 05-27-2012, 12:19 AM

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/464345_234801123297274_151869...09123036_o.jpg

Could anyone tell me what setting precisely he would be using in such a situation. I am in a dark Hall concert and the lights come from the stage. I tried to use a flash but it didnt give me good results....A lot of the great colours were lost with the flash. So I decided to use my K200D without a flash....But I was probably not using a good setting since the shutter speed was too slow without the flash on....And the image was shaking despite all my effort to stay still...It was a rock concert. Could anyone tell me what setting he would be using that would allow me to use my camera without the flash, but still with a fast shutter speed so that I don't get all these shaking images!

Neel1 · 05-27-2012, 12:21 AM

Susheela Raman in Mauritius | Facebook

samtr87 · 05-27-2012, 01:01 AM

When I go to concerts, I set the camera on auto iso up to 6400 and use TV mode to control shutter speed. People say no slower than 1/focal length, but if you are super steady you can probably get away with something slightly slower although not by much. If you have a fast lens then that will help. I don't so I settle for the images that I manage to get and hope for some good ones in there. Sometimes a little motion blur adds to the photo, such as the movement of a drummer's hands. And sometimes they use really bright lights in between so that's a good opportunity for you to get a better picture.

This picture is one of my favorites. He was practically standing still and the lights were at full brightness. So there are ideal conditions for a decent picture if you if you know when to take advantage.

There was a lot of movement at this concert, and only a fraction of the pictures I took came out satisfactory, but a fast enough shutter can "freeze" movement

Hope that helps.

Anvh · 05-27-2012, 02:56 AM

With the K10D, i often could get away with 1/80, ISO1600 and f/2.8

Another tip, don't use that border anymore.

**dms** · 05-27-2012, 10:40 AM

Neel1, I would say either the photo was 1 in a million accident--or you don't need any advice! The picture works on every level. In particular the integration of audience and performer is tough to really get well. Also the sense of both individuals and a group, and the sharpness and (blurred) movement. And ...

However, I also think the border detracts. Congratulations

**MJL** · 05-30-2012, 01:59 PM

Certain performer favour certain routine or move, knowing it will let you anticipate when to release the shutter and capture the moment at the peak (slowest) of the action. You can watch their video or go to the rehearsal to find out.

Check the stage light setting and avoid the angle where the performer will be lighted from the back or directly above, unless you are shooting for dramatic expression. If that is what you want, use full manual as these situation can fool the exposure & focusing system.

Set the camera at ISO 1600 & 1/250-1/350 sec with f/2.8-f/3.5 aperture on the lens give me very consistent exposure from stage play to rock concert.

**Ash** · 05-30-2012, 02:03 PM

Yep, manual mode is the way to go, setting your exposure triad using the existing light to get you consistent results each time. Get it right before the concert and you hardly have to fiddle with the settings again the whole night.

mysticcowboy · 05-30-2012, 10:22 PM

I use TAv when shooting performances. Use the largest aperture you can get away with for focusing depth of field. Set the shutter speed as slow as you can get away for whatever movement you'll encounter, and let the camera choose ISO. It's basically manual with variable ISO, but Pentax puts it on the mode dial.

Anvh · 05-31-2012, 10:13 AM

Originally posted by mysticcowboy

I use TAv when shooting performances.

It really depends on the lighting they use and your position, when they use lighting creatively, smoke and other effects i found that manual is the only way to really get a good exposure because the metering is all over the place with the lighting.

**Lowell Goudge** · 05-31-2012, 10:31 AM

the only setting I think that is important is metering mode. Use spot, forget about tight framing, and point the meter at what you want to meter off of and shoot.

the exposure on everything else is irrelevant as the lighting is usually so one directional and the contrast ratio of the scene is so high, the rest will, simply have to be what it is.

One thing, however, is that you may wish to try shooting JPEGs with shadow and highlight protection turned on, as this can give you a few additional stops of dynamic range and if you hit the exposure and have the WB set where you need it, you really dont give up much..

For WB, I usually set to daylight, and correct for the lighting in PP, even with JPEGs because setting it for incandescent usually leaves the scen a little too cold and washed out, compared to the warmth given with daylight setting and incandescent lights

Anvh · 05-31-2012, 12:10 PM

Originally posted by Lowell Goudge

Use spot, forget about tight framing, and point the meter at what you want to meter off of and shoot.

If you go to hard rock concert they all wear dark clothing, good luck getting a good meter from that

Just giving you an example.

**Lowell Goudge** · 05-31-2012, 02:57 PM

Originally posted by Anvh

If you go to hard rock concert they all wear dark clothing, good luck getting a good meter from that

Just giving you an example.

Ok fine you want the cloths to meter at about 40 grey scale or -1.5 stops down. No different than shooting a black bird. Or spot meter off the faces, and go without compensation, but I still think spot metering is the most reliable as long as you know what you are doing

Anvh · 05-31-2012, 06:01 PM

Ever tried it?

**Lowell Goudge** · 06-01-2012, 11:40 AM

Originally posted by Anvh

Ever tried it?

lots of times

Have 4 years of photographing my daughters high school stage performances, and 15 years of photographing her dance recitals.

I have also done photographing of bands in smaller venues like pubs etc.

add this to my wild life photography, and I am a firm believer in spot metering. You just have to use your knowledge of the subject you are metering on, and remember that you don;t want black to be light to mid grey

John Poirier · 06-01-2012, 01:15 PM

Originally posted by Anvh

Ever tried it?

Some of us have done it.

Using a spot meter- even a hand-held one- at concerts is a viable approach, one of a number of ways of dealing with exposure depending on variables such as lighting quality and mobility restrictions.

Below is a shot of Joe Strummer of The Clash that I did many years ago. I was shooting Ektachrome 400 in a body that had average metering only, with a Vivitar Series 1 200/3.0. Lighting was changiing constantly and the dark background/spotlighted musician combination made average metering almost hopeless. Metered with a Pentax Spotmeter V. I probably placed the dark side of his face in Zone 5. I was squeezed in an insane jammed crowd immediately in front of massive speakers, but it was still possible to work with the spot meter (I was already very experienced with it.) I had a very high success rate in terms of exposure that night.

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05-27-2012, 12:19 AM	#1
Neel1 Forum Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 85	What setting more appropriate in dark concert hall? http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/464345_234801123297274_151869...09123036_o.jpg Could anyone tell me what setting precisely he would be using in such a situation. I am in a dark Hall concert and the lights come from the stage. I tried to use a flash but it didnt give me good results....A lot of the great colours were lost with the flash. So I decided to use my K200D without a flash....But I was probably not using a good setting since the shutter speed was too slow without the flash on....And the image was shaking despite all my effort to stay still...It was a rock concert. Could anyone tell me what setting he would be using that would allow me to use my camera without the flash, but still with a fast shutter speed so that I don't get all these shaking images!

05-30-2012, 01:59 PM	#6
MJL Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: The Canadian WetCoast Photos: Albums Posts: 384	Anticipation, stage setup & exposure Certain performer favour certain routine or move, knowing it will let you anticipate when to release the shutter and capture the moment at the peak (slowest) of the action. You can watch their video or go to the rehearsal to find out. Check the stage light setting and avoid the angle where the performer will be lighted from the back or directly above, unless you are shooting for dramatic expression. If that is what you want, use full manual as these situation can fool the exposure & focusing system. Set the camera at ISO 1600 & 1/250-1/350 sec with f/2.8-f/3.5 aperture on the lens give me very consistent exposure from stage play to rock concert.

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05-27-2012, 12:21 AM	#2
Neel1 Forum Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 85 Original Poster	Susheela Raman in Mauritius \| Facebook

05-27-2012, 01:01 AM	#3
samtr87 Inactive Account Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: FL Posts: 246	When I go to concerts, I set the camera on auto iso up to 6400 and use TV mode to control shutter speed. People say no slower than 1/focal length, but if you are super steady you can probably get away with something slightly slower although not by much. If you have a fast lens then that will help. I don't so I settle for the images that I manage to get and hope for some good ones in there. Sometimes a little motion blur adds to the photo, such as the movement of a drummer's hands. And sometimes they use really bright lights in between so that's a good opportunity for you to get a better picture. This picture is one of my favorites. He was practically standing still and the lights were at full brightness. So there are ideal conditions for a decent picture if you if you know when to take advantage. There was a lot of movement at this concert, and only a fraction of the pictures I took came out satisfactory, but a fast enough shutter can "freeze" movement Hope that helps.

05-27-2012, 02:56 AM	#4
Anvh Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 4,616	With the K10D, i often could get away with 1/80, ISO1600 and f/2.8 Another tip, don't use that border anymore.

05-27-2012, 10:40 AM	#5
dms Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: New York, NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,192	Neel1, I would say either the photo was 1 in a million accident--or you don't need any advice! The picture works on every level. In particular the integration of audience and performer is tough to really get well. Also the sense of both individuals and a group, and the sharpness and (blurred) movement. And ... However, I also think the border detracts. Congratulations

05-30-2012, 02:03 PM	#7
Ash Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Toowoomba, Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 23,920	Yep, manual mode is the way to go, setting your exposure triad using the existing light to get you consistent results each time. Get it right before the concert and you hardly have to fiddle with the settings again the whole night.

05-30-2012, 10:22 PM	#8
mysticcowboy Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: port townsend, wa Photos: Albums Posts: 968	I use TAv when shooting performances. Use the largest aperture you can get away with for focusing depth of field. Set the shutter speed as slow as you can get away for whatever movement you'll encounter, and let the camera choose ISO. It's basically manual with variable ISO, but Pentax puts it on the mode dial.

05-31-2012, 10:13 AM	#9
Anvh Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 4,616	Originally posted by mysticcowboy I use TAv when shooting performances. It really depends on the lighting they use and your position, when they use lighting creatively, smoke and other effects i found that manual is the only way to really get a good exposure because the metering is all over the place with the lighting.

05-31-2012, 10:31 AM	#10
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,888	the only setting I think that is important is metering mode. Use spot, forget about tight framing, and point the meter at what you want to meter off of and shoot. the exposure on everything else is irrelevant as the lighting is usually so one directional and the contrast ratio of the scene is so high, the rest will, simply have to be what it is. One thing, however, is that you may wish to try shooting JPEGs with shadow and highlight protection turned on, as this can give you a few additional stops of dynamic range and if you hit the exposure and have the WB set where you need it, you really dont give up much.. For WB, I usually set to daylight, and correct for the lighting in PP, even with JPEGs because setting it for incandescent usually leaves the scen a little too cold and washed out, compared to the warmth given with daylight setting and incandescent lights

05-31-2012, 12:10 PM	#11
Anvh Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 4,616	Originally posted by Lowell Goudge Use spot, forget about tight framing, and point the meter at what you want to meter off of and shoot. If you go to hard rock concert they all wear dark clothing, good luck getting a good meter from that Just giving you an example.

05-31-2012, 02:57 PM	#12
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,888	Originally posted by Anvh If you go to hard rock concert they all wear dark clothing, good luck getting a good meter from that Just giving you an example. Ok fine you want the cloths to meter at about 40 grey scale or -1.5 stops down. No different than shooting a black bird. Or spot meter off the faces, and go without compensation, but I still think spot metering is the most reliable as long as you know what you are doing

05-31-2012, 06:01 PM	#13
Anvh Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 4,616	Ever tried it?

06-01-2012, 11:40 AM	#14
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,888	Originally posted by Anvh Ever tried it? lots of times Have 4 years of photographing my daughters high school stage performances, and 15 years of photographing her dance recitals. I have also done photographing of bands in smaller venues like pubs etc. add this to my wild life photography, and I am a firm believer in spot metering. You just have to use your knowledge of the subject you are metering on, and remember that you don;t want black to be light to mid grey

06-01-2012, 01:15 PM	#15
John Poirier Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Gabriola Island Posts: 619	Originally posted by Anvh Ever tried it? Some of us have done it. Using a spot meter- even a hand-held one- at concerts is a viable approach, one of a number of ways of dealing with exposure depending on variables such as lighting quality and mobility restrictions. Below is a shot of Joe Strummer of The Clash that I did many years ago. I was shooting Ektachrome 400 in a body that had average metering only, with a Vivitar Series 1 200/3.0. Lighting was changiing constantly and the dark background/spotlighted musician combination made average metering almost hopeless. Metered with a Pentax Spotmeter V. I probably placed the dark side of his face in Zone 5. I was squeezed in an insane jammed crowd immediately in front of massive speakers, but it was still possible to work with the spot meter (I was already very experienced with it.) I had a very high success rate in terms of exposure that night.