Wedding in a wood...

Caat · 09-13-2012, 10:56 AM

I have been asked to take photographs at my cousin's wedding this weekend. There is a proper wedding photographer doing the formal photographs (and maybe some other stuff). My job is to take photos of people walking back from the church through a wood to the house where the reception is being held. There will be a drinks station half way along the route. This is where I will be.

The weather is supposed to be good - nice and sunny - and the wood isn't densely wooded. It has a proper path. I doubt that it will be dark but it might be shady I guess. I will be there between 3 and 4 which means the light should still be strong.

The kit that I was thinking of is:

K-7
Metz 48 AF-1 and stofen diffuser
43mm ltd
DA* 16-50mm

I suspect people will be walking in small groups. My task is to take a few portraits and group shots - kind of a candid approach / semi-posed but not formal.

The DA* should cover any wide shots I need to take but I imagine the 43mm will cover most of the situations: loose portraits, small groups etc. Plus its very usable at 2.8 - more so than the DA*. I also have the DA* 60-250 if I need more classic tele-portraits. However I'm not sure the extra weight is worth it.

Other lens options I have are: SMC Takumar 85mm f/1.8, 35mm Ltd, K-135mm f/2.5,

The other point is that I only have the one body so I am not super keen on changing lenses that much.

I guess I should use the flash for fill in if necessary and put it into a 45 degree angle with the diffuser on. The trouble I always have is getting the exposure right with external flash. I guess it's a good idea to take a few general test shots and not be afraid to take multiple shots to ensure I get a good one without having to check each and thus breaking the flow. And also shoot RAW.

Does anyone have any general advice or thoughts? Thanks very much!!

D4rknezz · 09-13-2012, 11:12 AM

I would put the flash to manual, if you are concerned about exposure...

JohnX · 09-13-2012, 11:25 AM

As the 43 is within the zoom range of the 16-50, why consider it at all?

Caat · 09-13-2012, 11:30 AM

Originally posted by JohnX

As the 43 is within the zoom range of the 16-50, why consider it at all?

Why consider the 43mm you mean? Because it produce more attractive image over all than the 16-50

Eulogy · 09-13-2012, 11:31 AM

Originally posted by JohnX

As the 43 is within the zoom range of the 16-50, why consider it at all?

This is a valid point. Might I suggest you bring a short tele lens? Might be a situation where at 70-200 or 50-135(APS-C equiv more or less) might come in handy.

**maxfield_photo** · 09-13-2012, 01:01 PM

The Stofen will do nothing for you outdoors and you will lose about 80% of your light to the trees. It relies on having a nearby white wall (or two) to work properly. You would be better off with a soft box, or even an index card rubber banded to the flash.

Caat · 09-13-2012, 01:28 PM

Originally posted by maxfield_photo

The Stofen will do nothing for you outdoors and you will lose about 80% of your light to the trees. It relies on having a nearby white wall (or two) to work properly. You would be better off with a soft box, or even an index card rubber banded to the flash.

Well the flash a built in white pull out card which I've used a lot in the past - it also has a built in flip down diffuser

I find the stofen tends to soften the light a fair amount even outside but it does 'waste' light without things to bounce off of. When I've used direct flash in the past it's create much harder highlights. Unfortunately I don't have a soft box. I guess I could home make one...

**maxfield_photo** · 09-13-2012, 02:07 PM

I would check out the tutorial videos at the Lumiquest Wesite.

Yes, he's trying to sell light modifiers, but the information is the absolute gospel of light. Particularly check out the myths and misconceptions videos. Then, I would look around you local camera stores and see if they have one of the "flying nun" bounce devices, I think that will help you a lot out in the woods.

Also, shoot with the camera in manual, and try setting your flash EV comp to -1. Use a slower shutter speed to get some ambient light in your photos if they start to look too "flashy". Once you find the right exposure it will be reproducable shot after shot because you are in manual mode.

Caat · 09-13-2012, 02:19 PM

Originally posted by maxfield_photo

I would check out the tutorial videos at the Lumiquest Wesite.

Yes, he's trying to sell light modifiers, but the information is the absolute gospel of light. Particularly check out the myths and misconceptions videos. Then, I would look around you local camera stores and see if they have one of the "flying nun" bounce devices, I think that will help you a lot out in the woods.

Also, shoot with the camera in manual, and try setting your flash EV comp to -1. Use a slower shutter speed to get some ambient light in your photos if they start to look too "flashy". Once you find the right exposure it will be reproducable shot after shot because you are in manual mode.

Thanks, the videos are really helpful.

Yes, I've learnt to shoot manually with flash as it's far more reliable and you can control the amount of ambient light whilst the flash fills in the exposure gap. Is it best to shoot at the lowest ISO in these situations?

**Ash** · 09-13-2012, 02:30 PM

The lower your ISO, the thinner your DoF must be for the ambient light to register in the photo, which might be unacceptable for some shots. Long Exposure time might help with this but it could even be undesirable to drag the shutter if you can't keep your subjects still enough to not blur the photo. I'd consider an off-camera soft box or umbrella set up, which makes for a beautiful quality light out in the field.

TomTextura · 09-13-2012, 03:56 PM

Originally posted by Ash

I'd consider an off-camera soft box or umbrella set up, which makes for a beautiful quality light out in the field.

Definitely agree.

Originally posted by Caat

Unfortunately I don't have a soft box. I guess I could home make one...

Would recommend that. Google "DIY softbox" and you will find all kinds of affordable options. Good diffusion material might be the hardest thing to come by. I can't find the webpage with the plans that I followed to build my 10" softbox, sorry. I used the extra inner diffusion material from my 24" softbox. With a lightweight and small softbox you can just gaffer tape or rubberband it (what I do with the small one I made) directly to your flash head. Works great! You'll need either a tripod or lightstand along with a cold shoe though to set it up on. I've really liked using the Frio.

Caat · 09-13-2012, 04:17 PM

Thanks everyone. I've just scratch built a softbox!

I used a pre-existing cardboard box for rigidity and lined it with foil. I got a free diffusion sheet with a magazine ages ago. You stick on a window for softening natural light for by window portraits. I pulled it taught over the box to use as the diffuser.

I've done a few test shots and its so much better than the bald flash. I think this is the best compromise. Off camera flash or a larger kit would be a bit impractical. I've got to go to sleep now but when I get a chance I'll upload shots of my handiwork.

TomTextura · 09-13-2012, 04:51 PM

Originally posted by Caat

I've just scratch built a softbox! I used a pre-existing cardboard box for rigidity and lined it with foil. I got a free diffusion sheet with a magazine ages ago. You stick on a window for softening natural light for by window portraits. I pulled it taught over the box to use as the diffuser. I've done a few test shots and its so much better than the bald flash.

Awesome! Way to go! What size did it end up being?

Caat · 09-14-2012, 12:02 AM

It's 9.5 inches across and 6.5 inches at its highest - there's a notch out of the bottom edge so the flash sensors aren't obscured.

09-13-2012, 10:56 AM	#1
Caat Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: United Kingdom Photos: Albums Posts: 927	Wedding in a wood... I have been asked to take photographs at my cousin's wedding this weekend. There is a proper wedding photographer doing the formal photographs (and maybe some other stuff). My job is to take photos of people walking back from the church through a wood to the house where the reception is being held. There will be a drinks station half way along the route. This is where I will be. The weather is supposed to be good - nice and sunny - and the wood isn't densely wooded. It has a proper path. I doubt that it will be dark but it might be shady I guess. I will be there between 3 and 4 which means the light should still be strong. The kit that I was thinking of is: K-7 Metz 48 AF-1 and stofen diffuser 43mm ltd DA* 16-50mm I suspect people will be walking in small groups. My task is to take a few portraits and group shots - kind of a candid approach / semi-posed but not formal. The DA* should cover any wide shots I need to take but I imagine the 43mm will cover most of the situations: loose portraits, small groups etc. Plus its very usable at 2.8 - more so than the DA. I also have the DA 60-250 if I need more classic tele-portraits. However I'm not sure the extra weight is worth it. Other lens options I have are: SMC Takumar 85mm f/1.8, 35mm Ltd, K-135mm f/2.5, The other point is that I only have the one body so I am not super keen on changing lenses that much. I guess I should use the flash for fill in if necessary and put it into a 45 degree angle with the diffuser on. The trouble I always have is getting the exposure right with external flash. I guess it's a good idea to take a few general test shots and not be afraid to take multiple shots to ensure I get a good one without having to check each and thus breaking the flow. And also shoot RAW. Does anyone have any general advice or thoughts? Thanks very much!!

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09-13-2012, 11:12 AM	#2
D4rknezz Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 1,196	I would put the flash to manual, if you are concerned about exposure...

09-13-2012, 11:25 AM	#3
JohnX Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: London Posts: 1,116	As the 43 is within the zoom range of the 16-50, why consider it at all?

09-13-2012, 11:30 AM	#4
Caat Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: United Kingdom Photos: Albums Posts: 927 Original Poster	Originally posted by JohnX As the 43 is within the zoom range of the 16-50, why consider it at all? Why consider the 43mm you mean? Because it produce more attractive image over all than the 16-50

09-13-2012, 11:31 AM	#5
Eulogy Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick Photos: Gallery Posts: 632	Originally posted by JohnX As the 43 is within the zoom range of the 16-50, why consider it at all? This is a valid point. Might I suggest you bring a short tele lens? Might be a situation where at 70-200 or 50-135(APS-C equiv more or less) might come in handy.

09-13-2012, 01:01 PM	#6
maxfield_photo Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 1,216	The Stofen will do nothing for you outdoors and you will lose about 80% of your light to the trees. It relies on having a nearby white wall (or two) to work properly. You would be better off with a soft box, or even an index card rubber banded to the flash.

09-13-2012, 01:28 PM	#7
Caat Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: United Kingdom Photos: Albums Posts: 927 Original Poster	Originally posted by maxfield_photo The Stofen will do nothing for you outdoors and you will lose about 80% of your light to the trees. It relies on having a nearby white wall (or two) to work properly. You would be better off with a soft box, or even an index card rubber banded to the flash. Well the flash a built in white pull out card which I've used a lot in the past - it also has a built in flip down diffuser I find the stofen tends to soften the light a fair amount even outside but it does 'waste' light without things to bounce off of. When I've used direct flash in the past it's create much harder highlights. Unfortunately I don't have a soft box. I guess I could home make one...

09-13-2012, 02:07 PM	#8
maxfield_photo Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 1,216	I would check out the tutorial videos at the Lumiquest Wesite. Yes, he's trying to sell light modifiers, but the information is the absolute gospel of light. Particularly check out the myths and misconceptions videos. Then, I would look around you local camera stores and see if they have one of the "flying nun" bounce devices, I think that will help you a lot out in the woods. Also, shoot with the camera in manual, and try setting your flash EV comp to -1. Use a slower shutter speed to get some ambient light in your photos if they start to look too "flashy". Once you find the right exposure it will be reproducable shot after shot because you are in manual mode.

09-13-2012, 02:19 PM	#9
Caat Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: United Kingdom Photos: Albums Posts: 927 Original Poster	Originally posted by maxfield_photo I would check out the tutorial videos at the Lumiquest Wesite. Yes, he's trying to sell light modifiers, but the information is the absolute gospel of light. Particularly check out the myths and misconceptions videos. Then, I would look around you local camera stores and see if they have one of the "flying nun" bounce devices, I think that will help you a lot out in the woods. Also, shoot with the camera in manual, and try setting your flash EV comp to -1. Use a slower shutter speed to get some ambient light in your photos if they start to look too "flashy". Once you find the right exposure it will be reproducable shot after shot because you are in manual mode. Thanks, the videos are really helpful. Yes, I've learnt to shoot manually with flash as it's far more reliable and you can control the amount of ambient light whilst the flash fills in the exposure gap. Is it best to shoot at the lowest ISO in these situations?

09-13-2012, 02:30 PM	#10
Ash Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Toowoomba, Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 23,920	The lower your ISO, the thinner your DoF must be for the ambient light to register in the photo, which might be unacceptable for some shots. Long Exposure time might help with this but it could even be undesirable to drag the shutter if you can't keep your subjects still enough to not blur the photo. I'd consider an off-camera soft box or umbrella set up, which makes for a beautiful quality light out in the field.

09-13-2012, 03:56 PM	#11
TomTextura Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Denver Photos: Albums Posts: 570	Originally posted by Ash I'd consider an off-camera soft box or umbrella set up, which makes for a beautiful quality light out in the field. Definitely agree. Originally posted by Caat Unfortunately I don't have a soft box. I guess I could home make one... Would recommend that. Google "DIY softbox" and you will find all kinds of affordable options. Good diffusion material might be the hardest thing to come by. I can't find the webpage with the plans that I followed to build my 10" softbox, sorry. I used the extra inner diffusion material from my 24" softbox. With a lightweight and small softbox you can just gaffer tape or rubberband it (what I do with the small one I made) directly to your flash head. Works great! You'll need either a tripod or lightstand along with a cold shoe though to set it up on. I've really liked using the Frio.

09-13-2012, 04:17 PM	#12
Caat Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: United Kingdom Photos: Albums Posts: 927 Original Poster	Thanks everyone. I've just scratch built a softbox! I used a pre-existing cardboard box for rigidity and lined it with foil. I got a free diffusion sheet with a magazine ages ago. You stick on a window for softening natural light for by window portraits. I pulled it taught over the box to use as the diffuser. I've done a few test shots and its so much better than the bald flash. I think this is the best compromise. Off camera flash or a larger kit would be a bit impractical. I've got to go to sleep now but when I get a chance I'll upload shots of my handiwork.

09-13-2012, 04:51 PM	#13
TomTextura Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Denver Photos: Albums Posts: 570	Originally posted by Caat I've just scratch built a softbox! I used a pre-existing cardboard box for rigidity and lined it with foil. I got a free diffusion sheet with a magazine ages ago. You stick on a window for softening natural light for by window portraits. I pulled it taught over the box to use as the diffuser. I've done a few test shots and its so much better than the bald flash. Awesome! Way to go! What size did it end up being?

09-14-2012, 12:02 AM	#14
Caat Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: United Kingdom Photos: Albums Posts: 927 Original Poster	It's 9.5 inches across and 6.5 inches at its highest - there's a notch out of the bottom edge so the flash sensors aren't obscured.