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11-03-2012, 01:13 PM   #1
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Macro - Focus stacking

I wanted to try out focus stacking with my DFA 100mm macro, however there is a fair amount of focus breathing. Will focus stacking software still work when there is a considerable amount of focus breathing? How does one get around this problem? Thanks in advance.

11-03-2012, 05:14 PM   #2
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Don't refocus, move the camera. Easiest with a macro focusing rail, but doable by hand.
11-03-2012, 07:54 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by baro-nite Quote
Don't refocus, move the camera. Easiest with a macro focusing rail, but doable by hand.
I kinda figured that...which one do you use/recommended if i may ask. Thanks.
11-04-2012, 06:09 AM   #4
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I don't have a proper macro rail -- yet. I've done some handheld stacks with mixed success (need to take lots of shots to make sure everything is covered), and have also used my RRS nodal slide (192 FAS package) which I also use for other things. One of these days I'll get the real thing, and as an RRS junkie I'll probably go with theirs, but I'm sure some of the less expensive ones would do the job.

11-04-2012, 03:08 PM   #5
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So Ive been reading about some macro setups and it seems lots of folks like the Newport stage with the 1" micrometer mounted on top of a focusing rail. Is that so you can get the camera in gross position with the rail and then really get precise movement adjusting the stage?
11-04-2012, 03:19 PM   #6
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That's verging into the micro realm -- beyond what I've ever tried to do, so I can't comment.
11-06-2012, 01:08 PM   #7
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This guy does great work - and he does describe his methods.
Flickr: Insect~O~Saurus' Photostream

11-06-2012, 06:38 PM   #8
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So I decided to purchase a newport stage. Now I need to accessorise it so it can fit on my arca swiss tripod.
11-24-2012, 05:46 PM   #9
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truth is we have a member here that , i believe, does extraordinary macro photography, nass check out his work, posts etc, very interesting and useful stuff.

Last edited by obscura; 11-24-2012 at 05:51 PM.
11-24-2012, 10:13 PM   #10
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The issue will be in I think what you are concerned.. the number of shots required to get a consistent, completely focused image.

This will be determined by your depth of field which will be determined by your 'zoom power' I think (for lack of a correct term). For instance... at 1:1 the shots required are far less than if you were doing micro photography at say.. 6-7:1 (such as I've attempted using a macro lens on extension tubes with a reversed prime on the front of that).

The depth of field gets so incredibly narrow that you WILL need rails as you are only going to get about a millimeter of your photo in focus per image. It got to the point where I suspected the shutter engaging was throwing my setup out of focus.
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