[FrancisK7]

Looks like I'll go with a Raynox Thanks so much for your input!

I'll need a ring to go with it?

How much harder does this make the focus? I've got AB-800 strobes to light so I can shoot at f/16 if I so desire, the 1M dollar question is, do I get a macro rail for maximum sharpness, or not?

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Last edited by FrancisK7; 01-15-2013 at 01:47 AM.

[Stone G.]

I note your small back lighting lighting apparatus. What is it and is it? Is it something you have made?

Yep, very simple: Two cardboard tubes, one sliding inside the other; a polarizing filter on top and an LED-lamp/or a flash/or a 45 degree tilted mirror at the bottom.

[audiobomber]

Looks like I'll go with a Raynox Thanks so much for your input!

I'll need a ring to go with it?

How much harder does this make the focus? I've got AB-800 strobes to light so I can shoot at f/16 if I so desire, the 1M dollar question is, do I get a macro rail for maximum sharpness, or not?

The Raynox adapter is specified to clip onto any lens with a 52-67mm filter size. For the D FA 100 (49mm filter size), unscrew the Raynox element from its adapter and screw it into a 49 to 43mm step down adapter. The diopter then screws into the end of the lens like any filter.

Focus is always a challenge with macro, more so with extreme macro. For a studio or lab, a macro rail is highly recommended. You can use very small apertures for DOF, accepting some loss of IQ from diffraction, or you can use the lens at its peak sharpness and focus stack, in which case a macro rail would be invaluable.

Lights cause reflections. You don't need super bright lighting for a static object, just use a longer exposure time. Consider constant lighting rather than a strobe for better control. Either way, constant or flash lighting, you'll want a softbox. You can make your own soft box (light tent) with a sheet of fabric hung over a frame if you don't want to incur any cost. http://strobist.blogspot.ca/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html

[FrancisK7]

For the D FA 100 (49mm ring size), unscrew the Raynox element from its adapter and screw it into a 49 to 43mm step down adapter. The diopter then screws into the end of the lens like any filter.

Great!

I'll get the 49 to 43 step-down adapter + Raynox 250 this afternoon.

[ChrisTrevino]

I have 49 to 52mm step up rings for my old 50mms that had 49mm filter threads. So I'd just have to clip it onto one of those =P

[FrancisK7]

I ordered the parts! BH should have it here by Friday.

I held back on the rail because I think might be investing in a full setup with rail+tethering for more efficient work.

[FrancisK7]

Edited.......

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Last edited by FrancisK7; 01-15-2013 at 11:23 PM.

[Allison]

I have the DFA100 WR and a set of extension tubes, so this would have been the way I would have gone - at least to start with.

That aside, I would look into a cheap macro rail. I got a Cowboy Studio (amazon) one that looks identical to the Flashpoint (Adorama) branded one for Christmas and it is great. Mine was $59, but I think the Adorama one is even less expensive. If you go for a more expensive set up later you could always sell it. It just makes it much easier to focus when you have such a crazy set-up on your camera.

[FrancisK7]

It just occured to me if I were to use an automated thetering+stackshot method flash wouldn't be optimal as it was suggested before.

What do you guys use for macro? LED flashlight?

[audiobomber]

Don't worry too much about the colour of the light. The main concerns are intensity and control of reflections. Do a manual white balance, or shoot in raw and adjust colour temperature before converting to jpeg.

[FrancisK7]

I meant it more in the sense that if I use a product like Stackshot to automate the capture of a 100 shots for stacking in Zerene, it'd be better to use a continuous lighting solution over flash. You suggested the use of continuous light over flash earlier.

My question is, what kind of hardware do you use to light a macro subject continuously? A standard LED flashlight (then white balance later... but I got a card. In LR it'llt take 2s to fix) or there are better options?

[Allison]

I have several led flashlights that I use for continuous lighting with marco, but I also tend to just use my flash a lot. I think you are right in going with continuous if you are stacking, so the flashlights should work fine. Just fine a way to mount them in a steady, constant position.

[FrancisK7]

Some sort of clamp maybe? I'll look around! Thanks Allison!

[FrancisK7]

Just got my stuff in the mail. I had never used filters before but it took about 1min to figure out how to install this thing.

First thought: WOW I need to be VERY close to the subject.

I bought Zerene Stacker so will report back on results. DOF with this on is quite shallow.

[FrancisK7]

Ok here's about 35 shots stacked in Zerene. I just opened it, added all my files and made a PMax stack, reimpored in LR, adjusted usual settings then exported in JPEG.

For my first try I am very pleasantly surprised.



The leaf is about 8 mm wide.