[mgvh]

I have submitted a couple photos to the recent PEG photo approval system, and I have really appreciated the feedback I've received. I've also commented on a bunch of photos too. One of the first things I'm realizing (again) is just how hard it is to get a really fantastic photograph...

Composition and lighting are things I'm still learning and working on, but in both the photos I submitted, comments indicated that they were underexposed. Now on my monitor, they look just how I want them to look, but when I check out their histograms, I can see that they are on the dark side. In fact, just about all the pics taken w/ my K-x and my 18-135 under normal, daylight settings are on the dark side. This means that I'm 'shooting to the left,' and I know that I should be trying to 'shoot to the right.' I've tended to use the Center-weighted metering, but I'm going to try the Multi-segmented and see how that works. I seem to have more issues with blown out highlights, so I've not really been worried much about underexposure. I suppose that after I take a pic, I should review it and inspect my histograms...

Question 1: What is your recommended metering option?

Question 2: Do you recommend turning on the highlight and/or shadow correction options?

So, now I have a photo, and I'm doing a little pp to dress it up. I realize that monitors can vary widely in their accuracy. (And if I was a pro, I'd need to buy a better monitor and get it properly calibrated.) I also know that sometimes I actually want a darker or lighter picture to capture a mood.

Question 3: If I'm just trying to get a well-lighted image, should I simply trust the histogram instead of my monitor?

I'm using and really liking Lightroom, and I know histograms can really be all over depending on the scene, but it is pretty easy to see if I'm too far right or left.

Question 4: Is there a recommended procedure (in Lightroom) for adjusting exposure?

What I'm asking is how you go about adjusting exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, whites, blacks, and clarity. Is there a recommended sequence? For now, I've started w/ adjusting exposure, then I adjust highlights/shadows, then I tweak things with contrast/whites/blacks/clarity.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[Na Horuk]

1) I personally usually use the center weighted, but it depends on what i am taking a photograph of. Sometimes I switch to spot metering, if I have a specific subject that I want to have exposed correctly. The only thing you can do is learn the differences between the metering modes and use the appropriate one for your photograph. You can also use exposure compensation (+/-).
2) Shadow correction and Highlight correction are quite different in the way they function. I suggest you have shadow correction turned off and highlight correction turned on only when you notice your highlights are being blown out. The best is if you turn all these options off and shoot raw and then process your photos with good software.
3) The monitors are problematic, but so is the histogram. The monitors are not calibrated and tend to make photos seem brighter than they are (thats just how a monitor works). Try making a print of a photo (and tell the shop not to change ANYTHING) and you will notice the print is much darker. The problem with the in-camera histogram is that its not completely reliable, as it is a histogram of the jpeg preview, not the raw. But the histogram is a good indicator.
4) Exposure.. Usually I hit the auto button to see what it does, then I hit "reset" and do it manually the way I want it. Then I use Curves to finish up. You should just take photos and you will develop a good working style over time
And keep in mind that what a "good" photo is can be very subjective, but its good to understand where people's judgements are coming from. You have to know the rules to break them

[tuco]

If someone is from PEG is saying your photos are under exposed, they are judging wrong and ignore them. Of course I'm making assumptions here but things like color balance and how dark or bright you adjusted your scene is your choice of expression to set a mood and it should be judged if it accomplished that goal or not. If you can, look at your pictures on another computer to see it there is any problem with gamma on your system.

[Den]

It might just be your monitor needs adjusting if the histogram and what you see on the monitor seem to be in conflict? (As Na Horuk mentioned above)

[Adam]

If someone is from PEG is saying your photos are under exposed, they are judging wrong and ignore them.

lol

[Bruce Clark]

Is there any chance of posting a couple of your images so we can see for ourselves. For the record I have have had several rejections from PEG and no acceptances. Som eof the feedback received has been very helpful, some not so helpful and some downright ludicrous (in my opinion). What this suggest to me is whil the PPG judges may be skilled in judging images they may not be quite as skilled in giving feedback. However back to the questions.

1. No in camera metering will give a 100% accurate result. Best is to use an incident light meter which measures light falling onto the scene. Second meter off an 18% grey card. Both methods somewhat cumbersome and time consuming. The in camera options are useful but can be tricked by the scene. Consider the following exercise. Place a coin on a white sheet of paper and take an in camera meter reading. Place the same coin an a black sheet of paper and repeat. Which reading is correct? Neither if the coin is the subject. You have to exercise some judgement to over ride the camera's internal metering system when necessary.

2. Turn off all in-camera adjustments. These things are useful for someone happy to point and shoot but if you are wanting to understand and control your camera, they are a hindrance. Shoot RAW.

3. The histogram is a tool and a very useful one at that but like all tools it is limited. Check primarily for clipping at either end and adjust your exposure accordingly. Clipped highlights are a bigger problem than clipped blacks. Ideally all the peaks should be distributed somewhere in the middle and both ends should be at 0 unless of course you wish to exaggerate one extreme. Even in a properly exposed scene, important details such as faces my be underexposed. Some local adjustment in software may be necessary.

4. Your workflow seems ok to me.

Screen calibration is important and I confess I have not done mine. As one correspondent suggests get some images printed and look at the results. Alternatively take your images to other computers and screens. If you see any differences you know there is a problem somewhere. Note. Do not trust laptop screens. For instance, my laptop changes screen intensity according to whether it is on power or battery. Which one is correct, I do not know.

You may also want to submit some images to PPG. Judging here is by peers and not so stringent as PEG. There is no feedback however so the learning experience is limited.

[mgvh]

Thank you, all! I actually have a dual monitor setup (2 different model Dells), and I have used the Windows system calibration tool, but I can't get them to look the same. I have decided that the darker one is probably closer to actual, so I'm using that one now.
I've been reluctant to use the in-camera adjustments. Yes, I should shoot RAW more regularly. (For now, I'm only do it in dark settings and impt pics.)
Looks like I just need to keep practicing.

[Allison]

So yeah, everyone's monitors are set differently, so it is never going to look exactly the same. And you can't use just the histogram...but you can tell if you are clipping blacks or blowing whites. If you are going for a mood and deliberately shooting dark images, then say so in the description of the photograph...but if the darkness is inadvertent, then this is something to work on.

It sounds like you made some adjustments to your monitors, so see how that works and tweak as needed. I always shoot in raw, but I do have warnings turned on so I can quickly see if an image clips more than I intended or if it is just way too bright. You also just start to learn the gear - and that is something that only time and practice can produce. I have a good idea now of when I need to ev compensate to + or ) depending on the scene, conditions, lens, camera, etc....but even so, I still have images that just don't work the way I want and I find myself making an unpredicted adjustment. So play around with some adjustments and see if you get an image that you like better.

[BigDave]

To get the best results, a calibrated/profiled monitor (the better term is profiled) is what you need to do. Look into X-Rite's i1 display units (they have a new one out that is less than $200). Other display profiling tools may also work, but make sure they are instrumentally based (not visually). Considering how much work you will be doing with the monitor, profiling it is a REALLY good idea. Think of how much $ you waste on the prints!

Also, only do your IE (image editing) on one monitor. That is the one you profile and rely on. The other monitor is fine for working with libraries, search for stuff, etc. I work with two monitors also (how did I live with out the second???).

Regards,

[Swift1]

Monitor calibrations aside, this is worth reading.
Optimizing Exposure

[mgvh]

Monitor calibrations aside, this is worth reading.
Optimizing Exposure

Thanks. That was helpful.