Originally posted by cardinal43 Would I be correct then in assuming that you have no way of knowing this without spending a "fair" amount of time with each lens? I understand that you get a larger depth of field with a smaller aperture, but I'm still having a little trouble with sharpness vs focus. I have been spending some time reading Peterson's "Understanding Exposure" and trying to asorb what he is saying.
As a suggestion, wander out with your new toy, and find a field with trees and items on which you can focus at various distances. Take your tripod, turn off SR (Ruined my lunar eclipse shots because I didn't), turn off auto focus and set the image capture to RAW. You do not want jpeg conversion to foul things up for you.
With a digital camera the only loss will be time. At each aperture setting, at your widest focal length, take at least three images, focused way out there, 1/3 of the way out there, and maybe 2 or 3 meters away. Don't even try to rate the images in camera. When you have done this, take the images onto your computer screen. and examine them carefully. If you use the Pentax photo browser you can see all your EXIF data across the bottom of the screen. Somewhere in that bunch of images is the shot that says "for scenics, you want to use f/11 and focus at 10 metres."
You can repeat the exercise at other focal lengths another day. You will be trying to rate the best of several dozen images at each focal length. Eyes and brains get tired after a while. Pentax made this really easy with my M series 28/3.5. They marked f/8 with orange, marked one of the distance settings with orange. That was your no focus setting. Line up the orange and use the viewfinder only for framing. Worked like a whiz. Everything from 5 feet or so to infinity was in focus enough for an 8 x 10 inch print, and sometimes 10 x 15.