[hangman43]

Lighting the background with a 2nd flash instead of relying on a the ambient will take care of the 'ghosting' you get from a long shutter speed when hand holding (as in your ant image).

Also, thanks for posting your rig. I've been wanting an inexpensive little adjustable arm to add to my flash bracket for easier positioning up close and the one you use looks nice.

Second flash might be an option in a controlled environment but not real practical in the field the main problem with the ant shot was the fact I was standing under a Mimosa tree shooting straight over head I actually was rather surprised it ended up as well as it did. It is very rare that I actually shoot slower than 1/100 but wanted to make sure the ant was not to dark to pull out the detail.

[Paleo Pete]

These look good, nice job.

I use a fairly simple rig since i almost always shoot hand held too, it's almost impossible to set up a tripod for insects. Gone long before I get the tripod set...

I'm using a couple of rigs, SMC Pentax 50 mm lenses, (K, M and A series) with extension tubes, and a couple of old teleconvertors with glass removed. This works fine and gives me aperture control. Also a Vivitar flash with variable power control, and with this rig I have to use a folded envelope to reflect the flash downward since it shoots over the subject.

I also use a Lentar 135mm M42 and extension tubes, I have 4 sets to choose from, mix and match. That gives me up to something around 200mm of extension tubes, I haven't measured since I got the last set. Same flash, and I lean in and out with both rigs to get focus rather than trying to use the focusing ring, I usually set it on infinity focus to maximize depth of field, and almost always shoot at f11 or f16. I don't need the reflector with this rig, it's far enough away the flash can hit the subject without it, about 1 1/2 feet with around 47mm of extension tubes, usually what I go for. The 50mm puts me only a few inches away, probably 4 inches at most, I haven't measured.

Your setup looks pretty good, I don't have all the wireless stuff so I have to rely on hot shoe mounted...

Some examples of my results -

Lentar 135mm and 47mm extension tubes



SMC Pentax 50mm f1.4 and I think 25mm extension tube, I think this one was shot in natural sunlight at f11 rather than with flash.



yeah it's not an insect, I don't think I have any uploaded with the 50mm right now. Most of the ones on my Flickr page are done with the 135mm rig.

[rbefly]

Hello Hangman, thanks for posting your gear and technique!
After looking at your first photo, I realized I already had most of the gear (minus the articulating arm) so I slapped together a similar rig and tried it out.
With my K10D body (it has the upgraded MF screen, a Katzeye) mounted on a flash bracket, I attached an AF360fgz to a Vivitar VIV-FC-PEN flash cable (5 pin), then put a Luimquest 6" square diffuser over the flash head. The flash is set to 'M' so the rotating dial adjusts from 1/1 to 1/32 power. Up front, I used my Bokina and later the FA 100 f/3.5 Macro.
So, it's basically a handle-mount flash offset from the camera slightly, not forward and to the side like your setup.
But it works! As you said, keeping the 1/180s shutter speed (X-sync mode) still allows you to adjust the ambient/flash ratio with f/stop and flash power output, it's not nearly as tricky as it sounds. My flash output rarely strayed from 1/4 to 1/8. Shadows are soft to medium, but not hard or too-sharp, no 'deer-in-the-headlight' look.
The whole rig is heavy and bulky, but a tripod is cumbersome, takes time to set and generally isn't as speedy as the critters I was chasing. Another lightbulb goes on...a monopod! Works great, one-hand operation to raise and lower, takes the weight off the hands and shoulders while you focus and is very portable.
I even managed to get the Vivitar 90mm balanced with the 1:1 adapter, by using the tripod mount on the adapter instead of the camera mounting hole. Without the monopod, my chances of hand-holding (while manual-focusing) that rig are exactly zero. Give ot take 1%.
The first shots of butterflies, bees and flowers look fine, sharp and clean, will post after I review and PP. Over 200 clicks and the flash was still recycling faster than I could compose the next shot. Those low-power settings are great for battery consumption! 'Course it helps that you'er shooting less than a foot away, but still...
Anyway, thanks again for posting this technique, my flex-arm is now on a slow boat from China but in the meantime I'm happy and the local butterfly population is terrified.
Ron

[hangman43]

Hello Hangman, thanks for posting your gear and technique!
After looking at your first photo, I realized I already had most of the gear (minus the articulating arm) so I slapped together a similar rig and tried it out.
With my K10D body (it has the upgraded MF screen, a Katzeye) mounted on a flash bracket, I attached an AF360fgz to a Vivitar VIV-FC-PEN flash cable (5 pin), then put a Luimquest 6" square diffuser over the flash head. The flash is set to 'M' so the rotating dial adjusts from 1/1 to 1/32 power. Up front, I used my Bokina and later the FA 100 f/3.5 Macro.
So, it's basically a handle-mount flash offset from the camera slightly, not forward and to the side like your setup.
But it works! As you said, keeping the 1/180s shutter speed (X-sync mode) still allows you to adjust the ambient/flash ratio with f/stop and flash power output, it's not nearly as tricky as it sounds. My flash output rarely strayed from 1/4 to 1/8. Shadows are soft to medium, but not hard or too-sharp, no 'deer-in-the-headlight' look.
The whole rig is heavy and bulky, but a tripod is cumbersome, takes time to set and generally isn't as speedy as the critters I was chasing. Another lightbulb goes on...a monopod! Works great, one-hand operation to raise and lower, takes the weight off the hands and shoulders while you focus and is very portable.
I even managed to get the Vivitar 90mm balanced with the 1:1 adapter, by using the tripod mount on the adapter instead of the camera mounting hole. Without the monopod, my chances of hand-holding (while manual-focusing) that rig are exactly zero. Give ot take 1%.
The first shots of butterflies, bees and flowers look fine, sharp and clean, will post after I review and PP. Over 200 clicks and the flash was still recycling faster than I could compose the next shot. Those low-power settings are great for battery consumption! 'Course it helps that you'er shooting less than a foot away, but still...
Anyway, thanks again for posting this technique, my flex-arm is now on a slow boat from China but in the meantime I'm happy and the local butterfly population is terrified.
Ron

I have went through so many different versions of my lighting set up that I can not even keep up with them I shot for about a year with AF200 and a homemade snoot to get the light closer to the subject then I started making soft boxes here are a few of my early set ups

[rbefly]

Hello Hangman,
Here's my first attempts at using your set-up. Although I don't have the articulating arm yet, two of the photos simulated the off-camera technique by simply removing the flash from the bracket (but still attached to the sync cord) and holding it forward and to the left. Those are the last two photos, the flowers and the watch innards.
In case they don't load in order, here's the specs;
1) White butterfly- K10D, Vivitar Series 1 90mm Macro at f/5.6, 1/180s, ISO 100, flash 1/8 power/w/ Luimquest diffuser, on bracket.
2) Orange/White butterfly- K10D, Bokina (it's easier to type) at f/8.0, 1/180s, ISO 100, flash 1/4 power, w/Lumquest, on bracket.
3) Pocket Watch B + W- K10D, Bokina with 1:1 adapter, f/16.0, 1/180s, flash 1/4 power w/Luimquest, hand-held to front and left.
4) Flowers- K10D, FA 100mm f/3.5 Macro @ f/8.0, 1/180s, ISO 100, flash 1/4 power w/Luimquest, hand-held to front and left.
My photo-posting technique using this new laptop is still a work in progress, it they're too dark or look unsharp, it's my fault, not the technique.
Buddy, you've improved my macro photography! Great thread.
Ron

[Racer X 69]

Hello Hangman,
Here's my first attempts at using your set-up. Although I don't have the articulating arm yet, two of the photos simulated the off-camera technique by simply removing the flash from the bracket (but still attached to the sync cord) and holding it forward and to the left. Those are the last two photos, the flowers and the watch innards.
In case they don't load in order, here's the specs;
1) White butterfly- K10D, Vivitar Series 1 90mm Macro at f/5.6, 1/180s, ISO 100, flash 1/8 power/w/ Luimquest diffuser, on bracket.
2) Orange/White butterfly- K10D, Bokina (it's easier to type) at f/8.0, 1/180s, ISO 100, flash 1/4 power, w/Lumquest, on bracket.
3) Pocket Watch B + W- K10D, Bokina with 1:1 adapter, f/16.0, 1/180s, flash 1/4 power w/Luimquest, hand-held to front and left.
4) Flowers- K10D, FA 100mm f/3.5 Macro @ f/8.0, 1/180s, ISO 100, flash 1/4 power w/Luimquest, hand-held to front and left.
My photo-posting technique using this new laptop is still a work in progress, it they're too dark or look unsharp, it's my fault, not the technique.
Buddy, you've improved my macro photography! Great thread.
Ron

Great shots Ron!

[mrNewt]

Nice setup - what is the highest sync speed on those triggers?

I have a similar setup on my K-01 - with 2 external flashes though.

---

Last edited by mrNewt; 06-24-2013 at 07:57 AM.

[tsakatsaka]

Great work looking forward for the next chapter

[hangman43]

Going to skip to my work flow in post processing.

First off I shoot all my macro in RAW because sometimes I do not get exposure just right.

1. I open in Camera RAW and up the clarity and then I adjust exposure to where I want it if there are any hot spots I try to tone them down by adjusting the highlights and whites. After I get exposure the way I want it I adjust the vibrancy and saturation. Then I crop to desired size and composition.
2. Next I open Photoshop and use Topaz Detail 3 I only use the fine detail slider and I never go above 25 have found that is about the most I can sharpen without getting too much noise.
3. Next I open Imagenomic Noise Ware start with default reduction the I use the sharpening slider bringing it up to about 12
4. For the final adjustments before saving I check the curves and adjust accordingly sometimes if I did not get lighting perfect I will go in and adjust shadows and highlights but that does not happen very often.

[Tippon]

If you were a woman, I might just have to marry you!

Getting focus and lighting correct at the same time in a macro shot just hasn't been happening for me. A quick test shot using your settings as a baseline has got me closer than ever

I'll be out playing with the camera again tomorrow. Thanks for a great guide

[p38arover]

Thanks for this thread. I've trying macro for a while but unsuccessfully. I've looked at macro pics on the forum and resolved to not try again.

However, having read this thread.....

I have several flash guns, Pentax AF400FTZ, AF540FGZ, Sunpak Auto DX-8R ring flash, and an Achiever 300AF - three of which are left-overs from Pentax film days.

I just bought two Yongnuo RF-603 triggers.

Looking through one of my old camera bags this morning and what did I find? A "new" in box Pentax hot shoe adapter F and a 5P sync cord F. I'd forgotten I'd bought them in about 1990 when I bought the AF400FTZ flash. I now have a use for it and another Chinese hotshoe extension cable.

It was the same bag in which I found the Pentax M42-K mount adapter I'd bought in '89, the M42 bellows I've had for 40 years, and a Velbon handgrip similar to yours, also bought 40+ years ago.

The handgrip was used with a National flash gun with a folding reflector and it used flash bulbs. Very likely it was a National PB-3S - i remember it looked just like this

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22458665@N05/5686692583/

I have too many bags!

Add my FA 100mm f2.8 macro lens or my M42 50mm f1.7 mounted on the bellows and I should be right to go......

...... If I could find any insects in the garden.

[traderdrew]

Hangman those photos are better than I thought someone could do with that equipment. I also have the Lester Dine. I have had the impression that is a bit sharper than the D FA 100mm macro WR. I also had the impression that the same amount of flash used as if I am using the D FA lens is a bit to harsh. I thought this is because the Dine lens isn't optimized for digital photography.

I like to use the inexpensive sunpak flash on my K-5 for butterfly photos just to add a slight bit of flash to the subject. You have outdone me with macro. Congrats and my hats off to you!

Andrew

[hangman43]

Hangman those photos are better than I thought someone could do with that equipment. I also have the Lester Dine. I have had the impression that is a bit sharper than the D FA 100mm macro WR. I also had the impression that the same amount of flash used as if I am using the D FA lens is a bit to harsh. I thought this is because the Dine lens isn't optimized for digital photography.

I like to use the inexpensive sunpak flash on my K-5 for butterfly photos just to add a slight bit of flash to the subject. You have outdone me with macro. Congrats and my hats off to you!

Andrew

I have been using this lens for over 2 years and just in the past few months my results are finally getting where I want them I think a lot of it is my lighting set up and of course it could be the fact that I have shot about 15000 macro shots with it and have finally figured it out.

[Tippon]

I'm very happy now!

Had a play in the garden and managed to find a solitary fly. Took a few shots before it got spooked and flew away, but all of them were better than any of my previous attempts. This one is straight from the camera, just cropped. It still needs work, but like I say, thanks to hangman's tips, it's a lot better than I've been getting

[carlosodze]

Great i was looking for something like that,
but i have some questions,
do the triggers last? are they compatible with the yongnuo 560 III ?
i am looking for durability, ¿do you think a cord (cable) is more realiable than triggers, cheaper, last longer? (also does somebody know were i can buy a cable or the correct model name)

Thanks